Daylight on the 2nd of March saw us all on the qui vive in expectation of an early start, but the mule-men, at nine o’clock, had not eaten their rice, and then came a demand for an advance of mule hire; a previous request for salt to be distributed to the people of villages en route had been complied with, but no sooner had the baskets containing it been brought in front of the house than the men helped themselves at discretion, and no more was heard of it. An hour was now spent in the distribution of five hundred rupees, which were laid out on a mat, while the eagerness with which the recipients gathered round and handled the silver spoke volumes as to their greed for coin. One of the tsawbwas had been seen eagerly watching Sladen’s private cash-chest, and asked in the most pressing manner to be allowed to take charge of it, while another dogged the footsteps of Captain Bowers’ servant, endeavouring to coax him into entrusting his master’s fowling-piece to his care.
During the morning the phoongyee of an adjoining khyoung arrived to say farewell. He had been a constant visitor, and the kind reception given him, and the toleration of his curiosity, which showed itself by wandering about and prying into everything, had quite won his heart. He was far superior to the usual run of Shan phoongyees, who, according to Burmese Buddhism, are lax and unorthodox in practice and doctrine. He spent much of his time in missionary visits to the ruder villages, whose inhabitants he hoped to convert to conformity with stricter religious rules. By way of a parting gift he presented each of us with some sweet scented powder and a few fragrant seeds or pellets, which he declared to be a sovereign remedy for headache or fever, “contracted by smelling culinary operations!” His advice to Sladen at parting was so shrewd and characteristic as to deserve quoting. “We have met before in a former existence, and it is by virtue of meritorious acts there done that I am privileged to meet you again in the present life, and advise you for your welfare. Wisdom and prudence are necessary in all worldly undertakings; use then special care and circumspection in your present expedition; your enemies are numerous and powerful. We shall all hail the reopening of the overland trade with China. The prosperity of the priesthood depends on the condition of the country and the people; what is good for them is also good for religion.”
[15] A distinguished continental Chinese scholar has informed me that this title is a civil one, denoting commissioner. In the absence of the Chinese characters, the exact title of this functionary cannot be given.
[16] The meteorological registers kept at the British Residency show the annual rainfall at Bhamô to be 65 inches.
[17] One tickal = rather more than half an ounce troy.
[18] Since the date of this visit, rest-houses have been erected for the Kakhyens by the Burmese authorities, and also by the British Resident; and some of these natives are always to be found temporarily occupying them.
[19] For this the writer is indebted to the learning and industry of the late Rev. Dr. Mason.
[20] Bayfield found no bottom at twenty-five fathoms.
CHAPTER III.
KAKHYEN HILLS.
Departure from Tsitkaw—Our cavalcade—The hills—A false alarm—Talone—First night in the hills—The tsawbwa-gadaw—Ponline village—A death dance—The divination—A meetway—Nampoung gorge—A dangerous road—Lakong bivouac—Arrival at Ponsee—A Kakhyen coquette.