6 Royal Terrace, Edinburgh,
December 31, 1875.
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
FIRST EXPEDITION:—CHAPTERS I. to XI.
SECOND EXPEDITION:—CHAPTERS XII. to XVI.
PAGES | ||
MANDALAY TO BHAMÔ. | ||
| Overland trade of Burma and China—Early notices—Englishtravellers—Burmese treaty of 1862—Dr. Williams—Objects ofthe expedition—Its constitution—Arrival atMandalay—Second coronation of the king—Thesuburbs—The bazaars—Mengoon—Burmesenavigation—Shienpagah—Coal mines—Thethird defile—Sacred fish—Tagoung and OldPagan—Ngapé—Katha—Magnetic battery—The firstKakhyens—The Shuaybaw pagodas—The second defile—Viewof Bhamô | ||
BHAMÔ. | ||
| Arrival at Bhamô—Our quarters—The town—The Woon’shouse—The Shan-Burmese—Kakhyen man-stealing—Theenvirons—Old Tsampenago—Legendary history—TheShuaykeenah pagodas—The Molay river—The firstdefile—Delays and intrigues—Sala—Thenew Woon—Our departure—Tsitkaw—Mountainmuleteers—The Manloung lake—The phoongyee’s farewell | ||
KAKHYEN HILLS. | ||
| Departure from Tsitkaw—Our cavalcade—The hills—Afalse alarm—Talone—First night in the hills—Thetsawbwa-gadaw—Ponline village—A death dance—Thedivination—A meetway—Nampoung gorge—A dangerousroad—Lakong bivouac—Arrival at Ponsee—A Kakhyencoquette | ||
PONSEE CAMP. | ||
| Desertion of the muleteers—Our encampment—Visit of hillchiefs—Sala’s demands—A mountain excursion—Messengersfrom Momien—Shans refuse presents—Stoppage ofsupplies—Ill-feeling—Tsawbwa of Seray—St. Patrick’s Day—Retreat ofSala—The pawmines of Ponsee—A burial-ground—Visitto the Tapeng—The silver mines—Approach ofthe rains—Hostility of Ponsee—Threatenedattack—Reconciliation—A false start—Lettersfrom Momien—A hailstorm—Circular to the members ofthe mission—Beads and belles—Friendly relations withKakhyens—Their importance | ||
THE KAKHYENS. | ||
| The Kakhyens or Kakoos—The clans—Theirchiefs—Mountain villages—Cultivation andcrops—Personal appearance—Costume—Arms andimplements—Female dress and ornaments—Women’swork—Sheroo—Morals—Marriage—Music—Births—Funerals—Religion—Language—Character—Howto deal with them—Our party | ||
MANWYNE TO MOMIEN. | ||
| Departure from Ponsee—Valley of the Tapeng—Acurious crowd—Our khyoung—Matins—The town ofManwyne—Visit to the haw—The tsawbwa-gadaw—Anarmed demonstration—Karahokah—Sanda—The chiefand his grandson—Muangla—Shan burial-grounds—TheTahô—A murdered traveller—Mawphoovalley—Muangtee—Nantin—Valley of Nantin—Thehot springs—Attacked by Chinese—Hawshuenshanvolcano—Valley of Momien—Arrival at the city | ||
MOMIEN. | ||
| Momien—The town of Teng-yue-chow—Aspectand condition—An official reception—Returnvisit—Government house—AChinese tragedy—The market—Jademanufacture—Minerals—Mines of Yunnan—Stonecelts—Cattle—Climate—Environs—Thewaterfall—Pagoda hill—Shuayduay—Rocktemples—Ruined suburbs—City temples—Four-armeddeities—Boys’ school—A grand feast—Theloving-cup—The tsawbwa-gadaw of Muangtee—Keenzas—TheChinese poor | ||
THE MAHOMMEDANS OF YUNNAN. | ||
| Their origin—Derivation of the term “Panthay”—Earlyhistory—Increase in numbers—Adoption of children—TheToonganees—Physical characteristics—Outbreak of therevolt—Tali-fu—Progress of revolt—The Frenchexpedition—Overtures from Low-quang-fang—Resourcesof the Panthays—Capture of Yunnan-fu—Prospectsof their success—Our position—The governor’spresents—Preparations for return | ||
THE SANDA VALLEY. | ||
| Departure from Momien—Robbers surprised—AtNantin—Our ponies stolen—We slide to Muangla—Apleasant meeting—The Tapeng ferrymen—A valleylandscape—Negotiations at Sanda—The Leesaws—A Shancottage—Buddhist khyoungs—For fear of the nats—Thelimestone hill—Hot springs of Sanda—The footprint ofBuddha—A priestly thief—The excommunication—Thechief’s farewell—Floods and landslips—Manwynepriests—A Shan dinner party—The nunnery—Departurefrom Manwyne—The Slough of Despond | ||
THE HOTHA VALLEY. | ||
| The mountain summit—A giant glen—Leesawvillage—The wrong road—Priestly inhospitality—Townof Hotha—A friendly chief—The NambokeKakhyens—The Hotha market—The Shan people—TheKoshanpyi—The Tai of Yunnan—Their personalappearance—Costume—Equipment—The ChineseShans—Silver hair ornaments—Ear-rings—Torques,bracelets, and rings—Textilefabrics—Agriculture—Social customs—Tenure ofland—Old Hotha—A Shan-Chinese temple—ShanBuddhism—The fire festival—Eclipse of the sun—Horseworship—Ancient pagodas—Roads from Hotha | ||
FROM HOTHA TO BHAMÔ. | ||
| Adieu!—Latha—Namboke—The southernhills—Muangwye—Loaylone—The Chinesefrontier—Mattin—Hoetone—View of the Irawadyplain—A slippery descent—The Namthabet—The Sawadyroute—A solemn sacrifice—A retrospective survey | ||
INTERMEDIATE EVENTS. | ||
| Appointment of a British Resident at Bhamô—Increase of nativetrade—Action of the king of Burma—Burmese quarrel with theSeray chief—British relations with the Panthays—Strugglein Yunnan—Li-sieh-tai—Imperialist successes—Europeangunners—Siege of Momien—Fall of Yung-chang—PrinceHassan visits England—Fall of Tali-fu—Sultan Suleiman’sdeath—Massacre of Panthays—Capture of Momien—Escapeof Tah-sa-kon—Capture of Woosaw—Suppression ofrebellion—Imperial proclamation—Li-sieh-tai, commissionerof Shan states—Re-opening of trade routes—SecondBritish mission—Action of Sir T. Wade—Appointmentof Mr. Margary—Members ofmission—Acquiescence of China and Burma | ||
SECOND EXPEDITION. | ||
| Start of mission—Arrival at Mandalay—TheBurmese pooay—Posturing girl—Reception by themeng-gyees—Audience by the king—Departure ofmission—Progress up the river—Reception atBhamô—British Residency—Mr.Margary—Account of his journey—The Woon ofBhamô—Entertains Margary—Chinese puppets—Selectionof route—Sawady route—Bullock carriage—Woonof Shuaygoo—Chinese surmises—Letters to Chineseofficials—Burmese worship-day | ||
| SAWADY. | ||
| The hun pooay—Mission proceeds to Sawady—Visitfrom Woon—Rumoured opposition—The Woon as amusician—Sawady village—Royal orders—Baggagedifficulties—Arrival of Mr.Clement Allan—Paloungto chief—Kakhyen pilfering—Abandonroute—Adopt Ponline route—Reasons for change—TsalengWoon—Departure of mission to Tsitkaw—Eliasand Cooke proceed to Muangmow—Dolphins—Up theTapeng—Tahmeylon—Arrive at Tsitkaw | ||
THE ADVANCE. | ||
| Residence at Tsitkaw—View from our house—TheNamthabet—Junction of the rivers—Arrival of theWoon—Conference of tsawbwas—Hostages—Kakhyenwomen—Rifle practice—A night alarm—A curioustalisman—We leave Tsitkaw—Camp at Tsihet—Burmeseguard-house—Lankon, Ponline—Camp on theMoonam—Hostile rumours—Camp on the Nampoung—Departureof Margary for Manwyne—Escape of hostages—Letter fromMargary—We enter China—Camp on Shitee Meru—Burmesevigilance—Visit to Seray—Conference with Seraytsawbwa—Suspicious reception—Return to camp—Burmesebarricades | ||
REPULSE OF MISSION. | ||
| Appearance of enemy—Murder of Margary—Friendlytsawbwas—Mission attacked—Woonkah tsawbwa boughtover—The jungle fired—Repulse of attack—Incidentsof the day—Our retreat—Shitee—Burmesereinforcements—Halt at guard-house—Retreaton Tsitkaw via Woonkah—Elias and Cooke’s visit toMuangmow—Li-sieh-tai—Return of Captain Cooke—Eliasat Muangmow—Father Lecomte and the Mattin chief—Aforged letter—The Saya of Kauntoung—Reports regardingMargary—The commission of inquiry—Return ofElias—Visit to the second defile—Mission’s return to Rangoon | ||
| A Note by Bishop Bigandet, on Burmese Bells | ||
| Origin of Mahommedanism in China; from Chinese Document | ||
| Deities worshipped by Kakhyens | ||
| Deities in a Hotha Shan Temple | ||
| Vocabularies:—Kakhyen, Shan, Leesaw, and Poloung | ||
| [Index] | ||