For nearly four long hours we stumbled downwards, the latter part of the journey being somewhat facilitated by the moonlight, which, however, was obscured by the impenetrable forest and the surrounding heights. Crossing the Nampoung, the guard-house was safely reached, and we were comfortably housed. As four of the mules had brought on some bedding, food, and cooking utensils, we were not so badly off as the Sikhs, who had marched laden with ammunition besides packets of sycee silver, which had been distributed among them for safety in the crisis of the attack, and had only supplies of dry rice.
The next morning it was resolved that the Woonkah tsawbwa, who had accompanied us, should return to Shitee, and bring down the remainder of the baggage, while we should await his arrival. Two hours later the tsare-daw-gyee reported that the Chinese were collecting in force at the northern and southern ends of the Nampoung valley to renew the attack. He therefore advised us to proceed at once to Tsitkaw by the Woonkah road. In a short time we were toiling up the steep ascent leading to the district and village of Woonkah, which lies on the summit of the high ridge forming the western watershed of the Nampoung, and must be at an altitude equal to that of Shitee. The tsare-daw-gyee brought up the rear of the party, and during the march sent forward a messenger to urge us to press on, because the Chinese were reported to be rapidly assembling. The people of the first Woonkah village welcomed us with evident satisfaction, and the tsawbwa-gadaw brought a grateful supply of sheroo, which was most refreshing. Here we were joined by the tsare-daw-gyee, and it was proposed to him that we should leave the led horses behind, but he objected to this as unnecessary.
From Woonkah the descent of the hills commenced, the road passing through a forest of very lofty trees clear of underwood. As we neared the junction of a road from the north with the Woonkah track, our advanced guard of Burmese beckoned us to follow quickly, and most carefully reconnoitred the sides of a spur which sloped down towards us, but nothing but dense jungle was visible. They evinced the same anxious caution at the point where the Ponline road joined our route before the third guard-house was reached. The Sikhs were beginning to be much distressed, and we had to relieve them by giving up our ponies for their use in turns. Tsihet was reached at 2.30, and, after a short rest, we proceeded to Tsitkaw, where we arrived at sundown, and were congratulated on our escape by the second tsitkay-nekandaw, who met us outside at the head of a guard lining each side of the road. We put up in our old quarters, but without any supplies, as no baggage had arrived; and for bedding, we had straw and Shan felt coverlets. Fortunately, some tins of preserved meat were forthcoming, but we had to procure from the villagers some clay vessels for cooking, and a blue bowl to serve instead of plates.
We remained two days at Tsitkaw expecting the baggage, the lighter portions of which arrived in charge of the Burmese. Another detachment of eighty-five men came from Bhamô, on the morning after our arrival, and marched straight on to the hills. The indefatigable tsare-daw-gyee also received orders from the Woon to return at once to Woonkah, and remain there personally to oversee the despatch of all the baggage. It is impossible to speak too highly of the care for our safety on the march, and the general conduct, of this Burmese officer. Various reports were brought in as to the loss suffered by the enemy; and both Burmese and Kakhyens seemed to have been strongly impressed by the “far shooting” of our rifles. The Kakhyen who had brought the earliest information of the intended attack made his appearance, and was delighted at finding his services recompensed with a handsome reward. He was so elated that, Kakhyen-like, he returned with a “tail” of followers, and, giving himself out as a tsawbwa, tried to get something for his companions, in which he was unsuccessful. We were also rejoined by our old interpreter, Moung Mo, who had disappeared at Shitee; but of Moung Yoh, or Li-kan-shin, and Allan’s Chinese clerk, who had been last seen or heard of at Seray, nothing certain could be ascertained. Subsequent reports stated that they had both been murdered, but no trustworthy intelligence was received either of their death or escape.
On the second day of our stay at Tsitkaw, letters were received from the Resident at Bhamô in reply to the despatch announcing our repulse. He had fortunately been on the point of sending some Lenna Kakhyens with letters to Elias at Muangmow, and had promised them a reward if they escorted our companion safely back. The Woon sent to request our return to Bhamô, as he had heard of an intended attack on Tsitkaw by the Khanloung Kakhyens, a most lawless race of robbers inhabiting the hills above the Molay river. Extra guards were accordingly posted by the choung-oke, and all the soldiers were ordered to be on the alert; but the night passed off quietly. We all returned, some by road and the rest by boat, to Bhamô, on February 26th, and were welcomed at the Residency by Captain Cooke.
He had no news of Elias, who on the 17th instant was still at Muangmow, and whose position, alone in the power of Li-sieh-tai, seemed precarious and alarming. To explain it, I must again mention that Captain Cooke and Mr. Ney Elias had started, under the convoy of the Lenna chief of Paloungto, by the Sawady route, intending, if possible, to meet us at Momien. They went from Bhamô to Mansay, and, leaving the latter place early in the morning, arrived at the Kakhyen village of Kara by nine o’clock. The chief Kara village, named Peetah, lies a few miles distant. Two miles from this place, they entered the country of the Lenna Kakhyens, and a march of seven miles brought them to Wurrabone, a small village situated near the summit of a mountain. This is the seat of the elder brother of the Paloungto chief, at whose house they spent the night, being received with the utmost attention that Kakhyen hospitality could show. From their observation, the Lenna tribe appear to be a very superior race of Kakhyens, their houses and manners evincing a higher degree of civilisation than is found amongst the Kara or Lakone tribe. Starting at midday from Wurrabone, the party arrived at sunset at Paloungto, a village of twenty houses. A march of six miles over a rough hill road led to Namkai, the largest Lenna village, containing forty houses, whence a road leads to Muangwan and Hotha. Here the road, passing through a part of the Lakone country, descended for nine miles to Pamkam, a small village lying at the foot of the hills on the right bank of the Namwan or Muangwan river. From this point, at which the Chinese frontier is crossed, and the level valley of the Shuaylee is entered, Kwotloon, in the territory of Muangmow, is only a mile distant. Arriving at sunset, the travellers halted for the night, the Shan inhabitants proving sullen and inclined to be uncivil. Their behaviour was a marked contrast to the demeanour of the dreaded Lenna Kakhyens, through whose hills the party had passed without any difficulty, while their expenses had not amounted to five rupees, the hospitable tsawbwas insisting on supplying everything required. The only chance of delay arose at Paloungto, where the tsawbwa wanted to give a grand buffalo sacrifice and feast in honour of his guests, and to propitiate the nats in their favour. He postponed the ceremonial at Cooke’s request until the return journey of the latter. After leaving Kwotloon, the Namwan stream was crossed, and a day’s march on the left bank of twenty-four miles in a south-easterly direction, and ascending the right bank of the Shuaylee through an open, level country, brought the party to the Shan town of Muangmow. This place, the residence of the tsawbwa, like the towns of the Sanda valley, is surrounded by a brick wall sixteen feet high, without bastions or embrasures, but backed by an earthwork. Four gates, corresponding to the points of the compass, lead into the town, which occupies a square of about six hundred yards, and is inhabited by Shan Chinese. The travellers at once proceeded to call on Li-sieh-tai, who was residing in a ruinous yamen, and commanded a force of apparently about fifty Chinese soldiers, although said to number three hundred. This redoubtable Chinese official received them with great civility, addressing Elias as “his elder brother,” and assigned them quarters in a khyoung close to the western gate of the town.
Li-sieh-tai is described as a little but broad-shouldered and powerful man, with a large head and ugly visage, having an unusually wide mouth, with thick and protruding lips. In conversation he looks straight at his interlocutor, which is in marked contrast to the usually downcast or shifting glance of the other Chinese. He showed his literary acquirements by carefully perusing the imperial passports, which he declared to be quite satisfactory, and amply sufficient to ensure the bearer’s safety if once in the mandarins’ country beyond Sehfan. The difficulty would be in the journey from Muangmow to Sehfan, as there was a feud between the tsawbwas of these states.
Captain Cooke resolved to return to Bhamô, as his presence might render it more difficult or tedious for Mr. Elias to proceed to Momien. When he with his followers proposed to depart, he found the western gate closed, and was told that it could not be opened without the leave of some official. He had been already requested to sign a letter of indemnity for Mr. Elias’ safety, which had, as a matter of course, been declined, and the closing of the gate was intended as a species of pressure. He outmanœuvred the officials by ordering his Kakhyens to wait till the gate should be opened, while he took his departure by another gate. They rejoined him outside the town, and all arrived without further difficulty at Paloungto. Here the nat sacrifice duly took place, and a bullock, pig, and fowls were slaughtered, a leg of the first victim being presented to Cooke, which is a mark of honour only paid to chiefs. A grand palaver was held in the tsawbwa’s house, the occasion being a dispute between the chief and one of his villages, the people of which had stolen a bullock from him. To atone for this insult, a fine of ten bullocks was imposed, to be paid in five yearly instalments. At least fifty Kakhyens were present, and sheroo and samshu were liberally supplied, but the assemblage was quiet and orderly. At midnight the English guest expressed a wish to sleep, and all at once departed, while the chief produced for his accommodation two carpets which he had recently received as a present from the Residency. The chief explained the difficulties which had arisen between himself and the leader of the mission at Sawady, by the fact that he had only agreed to convoy the British mission, and would not admit a Burmese guard into his country. It is certain that no mention of the passage of a Burmese guard had been made during the previous negotiations by Mr. Elias, who was at that time unaware of and subsequently opposed to the plan. The tsawbwa complained bitterly of the humiliation he had experienced in being obliged to squat on the ground before the Burmese officials, and that he had not had any opportunity of a private interview with the English officers. It is very much to his credit that he asked for nothing beyond what he had been promised; and his conduct and that of his brother, the chief of Wurrabone, and their subjects, showed conclusively that, so far as the Kakhyens are concerned, this route to Muangmow was unattended by any real difficulty.
On the day after our arrival at Bhamô, our anxiety concerning the position of Elias was relieved by the arrival of two Lenna Kakhyens, bringing letters from him dated from Kwotloon on the 24th. The messengers had thus accomplished their journey in two days, and were immediately sent back with letters. As it was probable that Mr. Elias would have received the letter of recall, his speedy arrival was looked for; and all our suspense on his account was ended on March 2nd, when he made his appearance, escorted by the Wurrabone pawmine.
Subsequently to Captain Cooke’s departure from Muangmow, Li-sieh-tai, whose conduct and character had made a rather favourable impression on Mr. Elias, held out hopes that he might be able to arrange for his safe conduct to Sehfan. The tsawbwa, however, was more explicit, and assured him that it was impossible in the then state of the country. Subsequent observations, and refusals of access to the tsawbwa, on various pretexts, convinced Elias that there was no intention to let him proceed. He therefore bade farewell to Li, who accepted a rifle as a parting present, and returned to Kwotloon, to which place two Shans brought the news of the attack on our camp. The aged tsawbwa of Wurrabone, with his pawmines, went to Kwotloon to escort him safely to Mansay; and leaving Kwotloon on the 28th, they accomplished the journey of sixty-four miles by a direct road, avoiding Paloungto, in two days. While passing Peetah, the Lennas evinced some apprehension that the Kara Kakhyens, who had previously grumbled about the smallness of their gains, might prove troublesome; but the party passed through without opposition.