We next come to the neckcloth, as no collar or band of the shirt was shown; and the one most in fashion was the 'Steinkirk, so called from the battle of that name, which was fought on Aug. 3, 1692, when the English under William III. were defeated, and the campaign broken up. This style of neckcloth was introduced from Paris, and it was highly fashionable there, because its negligent style was popularly supposed to imitate the disordered dress of the victorious French generals, who were so eager to rush into the fight that they did not stop to finish dressing—or, at all events, to tie their neckcloths. It was a very graceful fashion, and the ends, which were laced or fringed, were sometimes tucked in the waistcoat or shirt. They are frequently alluded to as 'snuff grimed.' Ladies also wore them, as in 'The Careless Husband' Lady Easy 'takes her Steinkirk from her Neck and lays it gently over his Head.'
And there was the 'Berdash.' 'I have prepared a treatise against the Cravat and berdash, which I am told is not ill done.'[193] Some have imagined that the word haberdasher is derived from this neckcloth, but it is too ridiculous to think of for a moment, as there were haberdashers as early as Edward the Third's reign, and at the time of which we write there were 'haberdashers of hats.' In the epilogue to Mrs. Centlivre's 'Platonick Lady,' 'design'd to be spoken by Mrs. Bracegirdle but came too late,' it is mentioned—
Yet, tell me, Sirs, don't you as nice appear
With your false Calves, Bardash, and Fav'rites here?[194]
[pointing to her forehead.]
The Daily Courant, Nov. 4, 1708, says: 'Also very fine Muslin Neckcloths to be sold at 5s. a Piece.'
A gentleman's shirt was of fine holland, and was somewhat dear—the fronts were worn very open, and the ruffles were not laced, at least for ordinary wear: this piece of extravagance was reserved for a later time. Showing so much of the shirt necessitated clean linen, but it is hardly likely that many followed the example of Tom Modely,[195] whose 'business in this world is to be well dressed; and the greatest circumstance that is to be recorded in his annals is that he wears twenty shirts a week.' That they were costly, we may judge from the fact that Swift was not extravagant in his dress, and that he bought them first-hand in Holland, by means of his friend Harrison, who was under great obligations to him. '28 Feb. 1718. I have sent to Holland for a dozen shirts,'[196] etc.—and again he writes: 'Jan. 31, 1713. I paid him (Harrison) while he was with me seven guineas, in part of a dozen of shirts he bought me in Holland.'
This having the waistcoat unbuttoned to show the shirt is very frequently mentioned, but it was eminently a young man's practice. A lady, speaking of her husband, says: 'You must know, he tells me that he finds London is a much more healthy place than the Country; for he sees several of his old acquaintance and schoolfellows are here young fellows with fair full-bottomed perriwigs. I could scarce keep him this morning from going out open breasted.'[197] Again[198]: 'There is a fat fellow whom I have long remarked, wearing his breast open in the midst of winter, out of an affectation of youth. I have therefore sent him just now the following letter in my physical capacity:—
'"Sir,
"From the twentieth instant to the first of May next, both days inclusive, I beg of you to button your waistcoat from your collar to your waistband."'
It was supposed to have a most killing effect on the fair sex. 'A sincere heart has not made half so many conquests as an open waistcoat.'[199] The waistcoats, otherwise, were seldom mentioned; they were long, but not so long as they afterwards became; and, with the exception of very fine suits, seem to have been quite plain. One or two advertisements of fine clothes will tell us a great deal about them. 'Lost &c.—a Red Waistcoat Wove in with Gold, 2 Cravats, and 2 pair of Ruffles, 1 being grounded Lace very fine, the other Colebatteen.' 'Stolen &c.—a new Cinnamon Colour Cloth Coat, Wastcoat and Breeches, Embroider'd with Silver 4 or 5 inches deep down before, and on the Sleeves, and round the Pocket Holes and the Pockets and Knees of the Breeches. They are lin'd with a Sky Blue Silk.' 'Left in a Hackney Coach &c. a light brown colour'd Hanging Coat, with long Sleeves, upper Cape Black Velvet, with Gold Buttons and Button Holes.' 'Taken from a Gentleman's House &c. a Dove Coloured Cloth Suit embroider'd with Silver, and a pair of Silk Stockings of the same Colour; a Grey Cloth Suit with Gold Buttons and Holes; a Silk Drugget Salmon Coloured Suit lin'd with white Silk; a Silver Brocade Waistcoat trim'd with a knotted Silver Fringe, and lin'd with white Silk; A floured Satin Nightgown, lin'd with a Pink coloured Lustring, and a Cap and Slippers of the Same; a Thread Satin Nightgown, striped red and white, and lin'd with a Yellow Persian, and a Cap of the same; a yellow Damask Nightgown lin'd with Blue Persian; a Scarlet Silk net Sash to tye a Nightgown.' These were clothes fit for 'the prince of puppies, Colonel Edgworth,'[200] who went one day to see his brother who lived but a day's journey from him; yet he took with him a led horse loaded with portmanteaus. On his arrival, these were unpacked, and three suits of clothes, each finer than the other, were displayed on chairs, his nightgown on another, and his shaving plate all put out. Next morning he appeared at breakfast with his boots on, and his brother asked him where he was going for a ride before dinner. He replied that he was going home; that he had only just come to see him, and must go back at once, which he did. The poor man afterwards died mad in the common Bridewell at Dublin.
Noblemen wore their stars on their coats, and their ribands, but it must have been a Collar day when the following happened: 'On Wednesday morning last between 11 and 12 at St. James's Gate, was dropt from a Nobleman's Coller of Esses, an enamel'd George; if brought to Mr. Mead's, a Goldsmith, at the Black Lyon within Temple Bar, shall have a Guinea Reward, and no Questions ask'd.'[201] The reward does not indicate reckless prodigality on the part of the nobleman.