With regard to shoes, there seems to have been much foppery. Red heels are specially railed against by the Spectator. The beaus wore the heels very high, as indeed was the fashion with the fair sex. Gay speaks, among his de omnibus rebus, of shoes, and gives the following advice[208]:—
When the Black Youth at chosen Stands rejoice,
And Clean your Shoes resounds from ev'ry Voice;
When late their miry Sides Stage Coaches show,
And their stiff Horses thro' the Town move slow;
When all the Mall in leafy Ruin lies,
And Damsels first renew their Oyster Cries:
Then let the prudent Walker Shoes provide
Not of the Spanish or Morocco Hide;
The wooden Heel may raise the Dancer's Bound,
And with the 'scallop'd Top his Step be crown'd:
Let firm, well hammer'd Soles protect thy Feet
Thro' freezing Snows, and Rains, and Soaking Sleet.
Should the big Laste extend the Shoe too wide,
Each Stone will wrench th' unwary Step aside:
The sudden Turn may stretch the swelling Vein,
Thy cracking Joint unhinge, or Ankle sprain;
And when too short the modish Shoes are worn,
You'll judge the Seasons by your shooting Corn.
Shoe-strings had gone out, and buckles were in fashion; but they had not assumed the proportions they did in after years. Boots were never worn except for riding; and there was in this reign very little improvement on the heavy and clumsy riding-boot of William the Third's time, which was still worn by Marlborough and his cavalry. Many are the pairs, with their spurs, that are advertised for as being left in coaches.
JACK BOOT.
In those days of bad pavements and defective sewage, when men had hardly begun the general use of the chair, and a coach was, as now, the luxury of the few, shoeblacks were a necessity; and, although a man might, like the Templar in 'Sir Roger de Coverley,' 'have his shoes rubbed and his periwig powdered at the Barber's, as you go unto the Rose,' yet a large number of 'Black Youth at chosen Stands rejoice; and Clean your Shoes resounds from ev'ry Voice.' They were very numerous; and from them is derived our word blackguard, for so were they called about Charing Cross and White Hall.
SHOE-BLACK.
There were different kinds of blacking, but, judging from the dispraise awarded to each other's goods by rival manufacturers, they could have been neither pleasant nor effective. 'London Fucus for Shoes; being an unparallel'd Composition of the most pure and rich Blacks, Choice Oils, &c., and is a thing so adapted to this Use, that the World never yet produc'd the like Invention, having gain'd a General Applause, causing the straitest Shooes to wear with delight and ease; beautifies them to admiration, preserves the Leather from cracking or rotting to the very last; and frees the Feet from all Pains, Corns, Swellings, &c.... Price 12d. a Roll. Note, one Roll serves one Person near half a year.' And then the famous 'Spanish Blacking' advertised, and called the poor 'Fucus' names.
The little odds and ends of male attire must be noted. Gloves, for instance, were in constant use, and we have seen how prodigally they were given away at funerals. The ire of the Spectator was aroused by a custom, then just brought up, of edging them with silver fringe, but this luxurious practice does not seem to have obtained for very long.