'OLD CLOAKS, SUITS, OR COATS!' 'OLD SATIN, OLD TAFFETY, OR VELVET!'
The loose dressing gown, too, was called a night gown—why, I know not, because it was not worn at night. 'You must know I am in my night gown every morning betwixt six and seven, and Patrick is forced to ply me fifty times before I can get on my nightgown.'[214] They were made of costly materials as well as 'Callicoe'; indeed, they were generally of brocade, or some embroidered material. Men used even, early in the day, to lounge into the coffee-houses dressed in them. One example will show both their price and the materials of which they were sometimes made. 'Whereas on Tuesday the 23d of December last, 3 Night Gowns was agreed for, and taken away from a Shop in Exchange Alley, viz. One Man's Night-Gown of yellow Sattin with Red and white Flowers lined with a pale Blue Sattin, Value £6 10s. One ditto of blue Ground Sattin, with red and white Flowers, lined with a plain yellow Sattin, Value £5 10s. One ditto of red and white broad stript Thread Sattin, lined with a green and white Persian, Value £2 10s. for which the Payment left was not satisfactory. If the Person who bought the said Gowns will give notice to Mr. Gray at the Rainbow and Punch bowl in Gilt Spur Street, so as they may be had again, shall have 6 Guineas Reward, and no Questions asked.'
As the ultimate fate of all these fine clothes was the old clothes man, a picture of him will as appropriately close this portion of the disquisition on male dress, as one of his mate will open that on female costume.
CHAPTER XIV.
WOMEN'S DRESS.
The commode — Description of ladies' dress — The petticoat — The bodice — A costly wardrobe — Underlinen — Dressing like men — Scents — Patches — Patching Whig and Tory — Masks — The hood — High-crowned hats — Furs — Umbrellas — Pattens — The fan — Mobs — Shopping — Stuffs — List of Indian stuffs — Lace — Linens — Tallymen — Jewellery — Diamonds — Plate — Children's jewellery.
A COMMODE.
The 'commode' must have been so named on the same lucus à non lucendo principle as the night cap and gown; for a more inconvenient headdress, perhaps, was never invented. It originated in the Court of Louis XIV., and was there called a fontange because it had been introduced by Mademoiselle Fontange.[215] It was also named a 'head' or a 'top knot' and was made of rows of plaited muslin, or lace, stiffened with wire, one over the other, diminishing as they rose. During the reign, their fashion and shape altered very much, as is noticed by Addison: 'There is not so variable a thing in Nature as a Lady's Head Dress: Within my own Memory I have known it rise and fall above thirty Degrees. About ten years ago it shot up to a very great Height, insomuch that the Female Part of our Species were much taller than the men.'[216] The numerous examples given in the illustrations of this book render any further reference to the 'commode' unnecessary, as the reader will there see it depicted in every stage. The cut on this page is only given because it shows it on a larger scale than any other, and is, besides, interesting, as forming one of a pack of cards (1707).
Ward gives us his definition of a Belle, or 'Modish Lady,' as he prefers to call her, who was—
| At Hackney, Stepney, or at Chealsea Bred, | |
| In Dancing perfect and in Plays well Read. | |
| ........ | |
| Impatient of Extreams, with Pride half Craz'd, | |
| Then must her Head, a Story higher be rais'd. | |
| In her next Gaudy Gown, her Sweeping Train | |
| Is order'd to be made as long again; | |
| All things must vary from the common Rode, | |
| And reach a Size beyond the Decent Mode: | |
| Thus Monstrously Adorn'd, to make a show, | |
| She walks in State, and Courtsies very low, | |
| And is a proper Mistress for the Fool, a Beau.[217] |