Mrs. Dowdy. If Cousin has one, as I hope to be kiss'd, I'll have it, Mrs. Turnup.
It is hardly within the scope of this work to follow the varying fashions of the reign, so one more extract must suffice. It is from 'The Humours of the Army,' by Charles Shadwell (a son, or nephew, of the Poet Laureate, 1713): 'But there are some fashionable Creatures at the other End of the Town, that give great Hopes of their being very odd and Whimsical; for their Head dresses are no bigger than the Skull-caps they us'd to wear; their Petticoats are up to their knees; their Stays up to their chins; and their Fans up to their Nostrils; and the mody Shrug makes 'em wear their shoulders up to their Ears; their Lappets reach down to the Frenching of their Petticoats, which are widen'd with Abundance of Whalebone; They stoop forward when they should walk upright; they shuffle along a tip Toe, curtsey on one Side, smile on those they would ridicule, and look very grave on their intimate acquaintances.'
Begin my Muse and sing in Epick Strain
The Petticoat; (nor shalt thou sing in vain,
The Petticoat will sure reward thy Pain!)[219]
Before its introduction, women to improve their figures, or to follow the fashion, wore false hips, but these speedily disappeared when the hooped petticoat made its appearance, about 1709. Addison wrote a very funny paper, a mock trial of it,[220] in which the arguments for and against are duly heard, and he winds up his judgment with 'I consider women as a beautiful romantic animal, that may be adorned with furs and feathers, pearls and diamonds, ores and silks. The lynx shall cast its skin at her feet to make her a tippet; the peacock, parrot and swan shall pay contribution to her muff, the sea shall be searched for shells, and the rocks for gems; and every part of nature furnish out its share towards the embellishment of a creature that is the most consummate work of it. All this I shall indulge them in; but as for the petticoat I have been speaking of, I neither can nor will allow it.' Vain, idle words! the fashion crept on, until under the Georges it was absolutely outrageous. At present it was a somewhat mild hooping of whalebone, compressible—at least such was the under framework; for the word petticoat meant the skirt of the dress—over which was the furbelow. They were made of varied and rich materials; one example will serve to illustrate: 'Stolen &c. A Cloth Colour Gown and Petticoat of Grazet, an Ash Coloured Grazet Gown and Petticoat, a Hair Colour plush Petticoat, a black Russel Petticoat flower'd, an Ash colour Silk Quilted Petticoat, a Cloth Colour'd Silk Sattinet Gown and Petticoat,' etc.
The bodices were laced, open in front, over very tight stays, showing them; and they varied in material from 'a pair of stays cover'd with Black Tabby Stitched, lin'd with Flannel,' to one 'with 8 diamond Buckles and Tags,' for which Sir Richard Hoare, of the Golden Bottle in Fleet Street, would give the finder twelve guineas. The bodices were worn low, showing the bosom—which, however, was partially concealed by the 'tucker' or 'modesty piece,' which was an edging going round the top of the dress and front of the bosom. In 1713 this was beginning to be discontinued, and deep, and many, were the growls over it in the Guardian.
The sleeves of the bodice were somewhat short (only coming a little below the bend of the arm), and were worn hanging, to show the white muslin, or lace, hanging sleeve, which came nearly to the wrist—a very pretty fashion; and an apron was worn, made somewhat ornamental by frilling, etc.
This formed the outward costume of a lady; only sometimes it was of extremely rich material, vide the following: 'Stolen out of the house of Mr. Peter Paggen in Love Lane near Eastcheap ... One Isabella colour Kincob Gown flowered with Green and Gold, one Silver lace half Ell deep; One Silver Orrice a quarter of a Yard deep; A large Parcel of Black and Silver Fringe; One dark colour Cloth Gown and Petticoat with 2 Silver Orrices; One Purple and Gold Atlas Gown; One Scarlet and Gold Atlas Petticoat edged with Silver; One wrought under Petticoat edged with Gold; one Black Velvet Petticoat; three Black and White Norwich Stuff Gowns and Petticoats; one Black fine Cloth Gown and 2 Petticoats; One White Satin Gown lined with Black Silk; One Alejah Petticoat striped with Green, Gold, and White; One Silver Net half Yard deep; One White Sarsnet Scarf; Two Yards of White and Gold Atlas; one Blue and Silver Silk Gown and Petticoat; One Blue and Gold Atlas Gown and Petticoat; Two Silver Laces each a quarter of a Yard deep, One yellow Chintz Gown and Petticoat, one Workt Petticoat; one White Holland Gown and Petticoat drawn for Stitchin; One pair of Shoes and Clogs laced with Silver; One dark Colour Cloth Petticoat with a Silver Orrice, one White Sarsnet Scarf,' etc.
Of ladies' underlinen we get a glimpse in the following: 'Lost &c., a deal box containing 4 fine Holland Shifts, 7 fine Cambric Handkerchiefs, 2 Night rails and Aprons, one with edging and the other flowered, 2 yards of fine loopt Macklen Lace, one Suit of Muslen Lace Night Cloaths, 2 Holland Wastcoats, 3 Diaper Towels, One Powder Box and 6 combs.'
The stockings were either of thread or silk; in the latter case they were sometimes of bright colours. We have already seen how the little temptress of the New Exchange asked, 'Does not your Lady want ... fine green Silk Stockings?' The shoes were beautifully made, of satin or silk, embroidered, or of fine Morocco leather, with high heels.
Oddly enough, even in those days, which we are somehow inclined to clothe in idyllic simplicity, women dressed like men, as far as they could. Budgell notes this: 'They already appear in Hats and Feathers, Coats and Perriwigs.'[221] And Addison points out to them[222] that if their design in so doing is to 'smite more effectually their Male Beholders,' they are mistaken, for 'how would they be affected should they meet a Man on Horseback, in his Breeches and Jack Boots, and at the same time dressed up in a Commode and a Night raile?'