Others say, one Mecham an Englishman, in a Voyage to Spain was drove on this Island before the Discovery above: That his Crew sailed without him and his Mistress; whom he buried here, left an Inscription on her Tomb, and then in a Canoo of his own building sailed to Barbary; the King presenting him as a Prodigy to the King of Castile: From whole Account, the Spaniard soon after made conquest of the neighbouring Canary Islands. The Island is rocky Mountains, with an Intermixture of little fruitful Plains. The highest Parts, Goat-herds and Woods; the Middle, Kitchen-Gardens; and the Bottom, Vineyards. The Roads bad, which makes them bring their Wines to town in Hog-skins upon Asses; a brownish and a red sort, the latter called Vino tinto, being according to common report stained with Tint, tho’ they assure you it is the natural Grape. They are almost all limed, a Preservative against the excessive Heats of the West-Indies, where they are for the most part transported by us, and where no other Wine keeps well.
Trade is carried on by Bartering, 40 or 50 per Cent. being allowed on an Invoice of Provisions, Cloaths, or Houshold-Goods; of the former sort, Bread, Beef, Pork, Pilchard, Herring, Cheese, Butter, Salt, and Oil, are first in demand. The next are dry Goods, Hats, Wigs, Shirts, Stockings, Kersys, Sagathys, Crapes, Says, Shalloons, and Broadcloths, particularly Black Suits, the usual wear of the Portuguese. The last and least in Expence are Escrutores, Chairs, Pewter, Post-Paper, Counting-books, &c. For these you have in Exchange their Wine at 30 Millrays a Pipe; the Malmsey, 60. each Millray in present Pay 6s. 8d. in Bills 6s. What other little Traffick I had, stands as per Margin.[4]
There is one Caution to be observed; That as there is not much dishonour in Trade to take advantage of a Chapman’s Weakness, it is prudent to see the Wines you have tasted shipped forthwith, or it is odds but the Stranger finds them adulterated: So that altho’ they seem to allow a good Interest on your Goods; yet the Badness of your Wine, or (if good) broke at their Price, lessens the supposed Advantage. Some Goods at particular times, bear an extraordinary Price; not so much by a Call of the Island, as of Brasil, whither they are again exported.
Fonchial is the chief Town of the Island, the Residence of the Governour and Bishop: Is large and populous, has five or six Churches; three Nunneries, not so strict as at Lisbon, we conversing and trading for Toys with them every day; and as many Convents of Fathers. That of the Jesuits has at present in it only seventeen; a neat handsome Building and Chappel: this Order being in all Catholick Countries the most respected for their Learning and Riches. Wherever you find a College of them, you may be sure there is good Living. The other Inhabitants consist of a mixed Race; Portuguese, Blacks, and Molattoes, who are civil, courteous, and equally respected in Trade; the Portuguese no where abroad scrupling an Alliance with darker Colours.
They keep no regular Market, but the Country brings in according as they think will be the Demand at any time: Kid, Pork, and now and then a lean Heifer, Cabbages, Lemons, Oranges, Walnuts, Figs, Yams, Bananoes, &c. There is one Curiosity I found in their Gardens called the everlasting Flower, never fading after gathered, or indiscernibly, in many Years; the Herb is like Sage growing, and the Flower like Camomil: I laid by several of them, and found at twelve Months end they were just of the same freshness as when gathered.
Fonchial Road is very open and unsafe against West and S. W. Winds; deep Water also, that there is no anchoring but at the West End, and that in 40 Fathom, a Mile or Mile and half off Shore: So that when a Swell from those Quarters gives notice of a Gale coming, all Ships in the Road slip their Cables and to Sea, returning at a more favourable season for their lading: Which likewise, by an extraordinary Surf on the Beach, becomes troublesome to ship off; commonly done by swimming the Pipes off to the Lanch, or lade on the Beach, and run her with many hands into the Sea. The like trouble Boats have in Watering (by a River at the W. End of the Town) and is most commodiously done before the Sea-breeze comes in.
The Loo makes a tolerable Harbour for small Vessels against Westerly Winds, that would be unsafe without. They make fast their Cable to a high Rock called the Loo, whereon is a Fort; but when the Winds veer, opening their Heads to the Sea, all Hands go on Shore, and leave the Ship and Storm to contest it by themselves.
Their Lodgings on shore are as uneasy to Strangers, as the Road to Ships; being prodigiously pestered with Bugs and Fleas. Cotts upon the Floors, is the common way of laying.
Their Strength is in the Militia, computed at 18000 disciplin’d and loyal Fellows; They, the Azores, and Cape De Verd Islands soon returning to their Allegiance, after that Revolution in Portugal, 1640.
Before I leave Madeira, I must relate the surprizing Account just arrived here by several Masters of Vessels, Eye-witnesses of a new Island which sprung out of the Sea the 20th of November last, 17 Leagues S. E. from Terceira, one of the Western Islands.