Drawn by Sir W. Gell
Sunday, 30th.—At five this morning we bade adieu to Smyrna; and never did I send aloft a more sincere prayer than when petitioning to see it no more. By the forenoon, we were off the Island of Scio, the coast of which presented much beautiful and picturesque scenery. The wind now gradually increased to a stiff breeze, and the weather became threatening; so that the first symptoms of turning in made their appearance among the passengers. The night following was black and stormy, and we had reason to anticipate an Archipelago gale: fortunately, however, it cleared up, much to the satisfaction of the captain and myself; for never did a boat traverse these seas with less of the seaman in the composition of its crew, from the said captain down to the slop-boy.
QUARANTINE. Monday, July 1st.—The Island of Tinos was in sight at daylight this morning; and, passing through the channel between it and Andros, we approached Syra, the quarantine station of the new Greek kingdom for all vessels coming from Smyrna or the plague countries. The situation of Syra is very beautiful; the houses rising gradually in a succession of terraces, built upon the slope of a steep mountain, situated at the bottom of an extensive bay, in which we found the Madagascar lying at anchor.
KING OF GREECE. Shortly after our arrival, the officers of health came alongside, and informed us we were destined to seven days' quarantine. Of these, the day we left Smyrna counted as one, that passed at sea as another, and the one on which we got pratique as a third; so we had, in reality, only four days to remain in durance vile. To console us for the unwelcome detention, the inhabitants brought off quantities of delicious fruit, honey, and meat to regale our appetites; while, in the evening, our eyes were gratified with the brilliant spectacle afforded by the illumination of the Madagascar and the town. The presence of the King seemed to have transported the good people of the island beyond themselves: such firing of guns and blazing of bonfires, such screaming and hallooing, probably never before disturbed the quiet precincts of Syra. His Majesty gets pratique to-morrow, and there is to be a dinner and ball ashore. We could plainly discern them making preparations, and decorating the governor's house, but had no prospect of partaking of these festivities.
It was very late before I could get asleep, owing to the gambling going forward on deck until two o'clock in the morning. There was a rouge et noir table, and a whist party, by both of which very high stakes were played, much to the annoyance of the better disposed passengers, who wished for rest and quietness.
SHIP LAUNCH. Tuesday, 2d.—At nine o'clock, after dressing the ship in her colours, and receiving a salute from the shore, the King left the Madagascar in the captain's gig. A deputation of the principal inhabitants awaited his arrival, and the keys of the town, according to "ancient and approved usage," were delivered to him under a triumphal arch. The governor then addressed him in a Greek speech, to which his Majesty replied; but in what language the court newsman has not thought fit to inform us. After parading through the town, the procession arrived at the governor's, where the King held a levee. In the afternoon, he returned to the vessel, on board of which a dinner was given to the principal inhabitants; and again the poor Greeks illumined their houses and burnt bonfires.
The English in the steamer set up a singing-party this evening, in opposition to the hazard-players; and we kept it up until there was a dissolution of the card table; it being impossible either to gain or lose money with any satisfaction while the jovial chorus disturbed their calculations.
INHABITANTS OF SYRA. Wednesday, 3d.—Great preparations were made for a ship-launch; and again the King went in state to the governor's residence, and proceeded thence to the dockyard, where he performed the ceremony of naming a small vessel; which glided beautifully into the ocean amid salvos of artillery, volleys of small-arms, and the cheers of the surrounding spectators. The grand festival and ball took place on shore in the evening; when they kept it up till past midnight; and the moment the King and his party returned on board, the Madagascar set sail, and "left us alone in our glory." It seems rather extraordinary that the Prince of Bavaria had not the inclination, as he certainly had the power, to put off these fêtes until the passengers of the Francesco, with whom he had sailed for two months, and to whom he was now under some obligation, could have participated in them. There was no reason for hurry; there existed no necessity for the King's immediate return to Nauplia; in short, no excuse can be found to palliate such paltry, ungenerous, unfeeling conduct: certainly unfeeling, when it is considered that his fellow-travellers were witnesses of these festivities, without the possibility of joining in them.
Friday, 5th.—By the first boat which came alongside to-day, many of the more restless part of our crew hurried ashore. I remained on board till the evening; and amused myself, during the interval, in watching the numerous boats, crowded with the inhabitants, which came off to visit the steamer. I did not notice a single Greek woman who maintained the reputation of her countrywomen for any thing but ugliness; and none of the men were of that fine race of beings whom I expected to see. There was nothing national in their costume; the women being mostly dressed in imitation of the Parisian mode; and, apparently, many of the men took their cut from Bond Street. Over a cabinet in the billiard-room, I afterwards observed several plates from the "Courrier des Dames;" and as Syra is destined to be the principal port of the Greek islands, I presume its inhabitants wish also to show themselves leaders in the march of improvement. Of course, the ladies will prefer stiff stays, gigot sleeves, and spacious bustle, to the loose jacket, short petticoat, and coloured stockings of their grandmothers.