TABLE OF CONTENTS

Page
Departure of H.M.S. Actæon with the British Embassy to Constantinople[1]
Island of Capri. Moonlight Scene[3]
My first Night at Sea[4]
Sunday on Board[5]
Schoolmaster of the Actæon. Muster of the Crew[6]
Stromboli. Somma. Vesuvius[7]
Scylla and Charybdis. Homer[8]
The Faro. Messina. Preparations to land[9]
Sea-sickness. A Host of Grievances[10]
Man overboard. Life Buoy[11]
Cerigo. Taygetus[12]
Piping up the Watch. Pursers Bantam[13]
Nauplia de Malvoisie[14]
Classic Reminiscences. Argos[15]
Sharks. Greek Costume[16]
Character of King Otho[17]
Hydra. Egina. Poros. Russian Fleet[19]
Beautiful Landscape. Gulf of Salamis[20]
Athens. The Piræus. Olive Grove[21]
English Residents at Athens[22]
Visit to the Acropolis. Death of the Chieftain Ulysses[23]
Insolence of the Turks[24]
Grave of Tweddel. Byron's Grave[25]
American Missionaries. Temple of Theseus[26]
Metropolis of modern Greece[27]
Modern Improvements. Sir P. Malcolm[28]
Value of Land. Speculators Plain of Troy. Fidelity of Sir W. Gell's Map[30]
Sources of the Scamander. The Golden Xanthus[31]
Tombs of Hector and Paris. Bounarbashi[32]
The Simois. Rural Excursion. Segean Promontory. Tombs of Achilles and Patroclus[33]
Passage of the Dardanelles. Influenza[34]
Present to the Ambassador. French Fleet[35]
Feast of the Bairam. Oriental Splendour[36]
Sestos. Turkish Colonel. Castles of the Dardanelles[37]
Beautiful Scene. Turkish Salute[38]
First View of Constantinople. The Seven Towers[39]
The Pasha's Gate. The Slaves' Gate[40]
Sultanas. Golden Horn. Beauties of Stamboul[41]
Pera. Scutari. Approach of the Actæon to her Anchorage[42]
Turkish Fleet. Size and Condition of the Ships[43]
Castle of the Janissaries. Royal Kiosk. Turkish Houses[44]
Unwelcome Visitation. Giants' Mountain. Russian Camp. Saluting the Russian Fleet[45]
Jealousy and Remonstrance of the Russian Admiral. French and English Embassies[46]
Russian Military Music. Plague. Orange and Jasmine Bowers[47]
The Caique. Turkish Boatmen[48]
Paras. Splendid Fountain.[49]
Pera. Destructive Fire.[50]
Mr. Cartwright, British Consul. A Sail upon the[51]
Funeral of a Russian Soldier[52]
Landing of the British Ambassador[53]
Greek and Armenian Women. Visit to the Bazaars[54]
Public Promenades. Oriental Perfumes[56]
Pipe-stick Bazaar. Amber Mouth-pieces[57]
Value of the Turkish Pipe[58]
Salonica Tobacco. The Nargile[59]
Coffee Houses. Shoe Bazaar[60]
Jewellery. Broussa Silks[61]
Close of the Bazaars. Funeral of the Sultan's Physician[62]
Lord Ponsonby's Audience[63]
His Reception. Count Orloff[64]
Admiral Roussin. Naval Punishments[65]
Cricket. Turkish Fleet[66]
Cabobs. Rapacity of the Sultan. "Valley of the Sweet Waters"[67]
Naval Arsenal. Cemeteries[68]
Palace. Turkish Horses[69]
Interesting Scene. Beautiful Greek[70]
The Erraba. Turkish Ladies[71]
Dancing Dervishes[73]
Greek Bookseller[76]
Mosque of Solimanie[77]
Seraskier's Tower. Conflagrations[78]
View of Constantinople. Hermitage on Vesuvius. Burnt Pillar[79]
Hippodrome[80]
The Author in danger of arrest. Anecdote. St. Sophia[81]
Visit to the Seraglio. Effects of a Golden Key[82]
Coffee Shop in a Plane-tree. Funeral Pomp[83]
Costume. Mustapha the Scent Dealer. Beed Caimac. Mahalabé[84]
Turkish Printing Office. Anecdote of a Sultana[85]
Ibrahim Pasha. Affront offered to the Captain of the Actæon[87]
Insolence of the Russians. Military Punishments[88]
Sultan's Valley. Buyukdere. Aqueduct[89]
Cossack Horses. Russians hated by the Turks[90]
Horn Bands. Beautiful Airs[91]
Fondness of the Turks for Champagne. A Venetian Story[92]
College of Pages. Christian Burying-ground[93]
Sultan's Visit to the Mosque[94]
Politeness of a Turkish Officer. The successful Shot[95]
Namik Pasha. Count Orloff and the Sultan[96]
The Procession. Turkish Horses. Appearance and Dress of the Grand Signior[97]
His Bacchanalian Propensities. Laughable Anecdote[98]
New Regulation Soldier[99]
Palace of the British Embassy[100]
Scene in the Arm Bazaar[101]
George Robins. Curious Weapons. Damascus Blades. Turkish Merchants[102]
Swords of Khorassan. Their Temper[103]
Jew Brokers. Actæon[104]
Humours of a Turkish Auction[105]
Slave Market [106]
A Georgian Beauty. Scarcity of white Slaves[108]
Price of a Female Slave. Turkish Confectionary[109]
Armenian Visiters. Residence of an Armenian Gentleman[110]
Oriental Costume[111]
Turks. Armenians. Greeks[112]
Jew Interpreters. Flattering Compliment to the English Character[113]
Oriental Politeness. Portraits[114]
Decrease of Fanaticism. Persian Silk. St. John's Egypt[115]
Cashmere Shawls. Angora Shalée. Ladies' Dresses[116]
Hummums[117]
Eastern Story-teller[121]
Matthews at Constantinople. Turkish Politeness. Description of an "At Home" in Stamboul[122]
Naval Banquet[128]
Seven Towers[131]
Tomb of Ali Pasha[134]
Russian Insolence[136]
Visit to Ibrahim Pasha[137]
Violent Conduct of the Russians to an English Gentleman[138]
Laughable Anecdote of a Turk[139]
Beautiful Scene. Contrasted Manners of the Turks and Greeks[141]
The Muezzin[144]
Madame Mauvromati. The Plague[146]
Massacre of the Greeks[147]
Anecdote of the Sultan[148]
Neapolitan Steam-boat. English Travellers[151]
Jewish Musician. Merry Greeks[152]
Greek Lady. Elegant Costume[153]
Affability of the Turkish Females[156]
The Pilot of the Actæon and the Seraskier[157]
Foreign Visiters[159]
Oriental Beauty[160]
The Ottoman Empire. Lord Grey[162]
Morning Prayer. The Muezzin[163]
Sunrise. Power of Religion on the Heart[164]
Russian Camp. Lady Ponsonby[165]
Russian Insolence to an English Party[166]
Namik Pasha. Tahir Pasha[167]
Excursion on the Black Sea. Beauties of the Seraglio[168]
The Symplegades[169]
Colour of the Black Sea. Experiment the Test of Truth[170]
Character of the Russians by a Turkish Innkeeper[171]
Grand Review. Splendid Staff[172]
Giant's Mountain[174]
Extensive Prospects. Mt. Olympus[175]
Prince Butera and the Sultan[177]
Detention of the Steamer. Illiberal Conduct of the Prince[178]
Royal Country Seat[180]
Insecurity of Property. The Bowstring[181]
Author's Preparations to Depart. H. M. Ship Actæon. Lord Ponsonby[182]
Visit to the Mosques. St. Sophia[183]
Fate of Constantinople. Tribute of Respect to Lord Ponsonby[189]
Armenian Painter. Poetical Description of Constantinople[190]
My fellow-Passengers[192]
Marble Quarries. Isle of Marmora[193]
Greek Deputation. Anecdote[194]
Pleasant Dormitory. Extraordinary Transformation[196]
British Fleet. Gulf of Smyrna[199]
French Squadron. King of Greece[200]
Smyrna. Excessive Heat[201]
Departure for Syra[202]
Accident. Island of Scio[203]
Island of Tinos. Quarantine[204]
Landing of the King. Ship Launch[206]
Festival of St. John the Baptist[208]
Syra. Bishop's Palace[209]
Ladies of Mycone. Costume[210]
Delos. Vulgar Tourists[211]
Modern Antique[213]
Naxos. Paros. Beautiful Anchorage[214]
Visit to Antiparos[215]
Marine Prospects. Spotico[216]
Entrance to the Cavern[217]
Perilous Descent[218]
Melodramatic Scene[219]
Description by a Naval Officer. Magnificent Passage[224]
Excessive Terror. Disappearance of the Guides[226]
Splendid Transition[227]
Dimensions of the Grotto[228]
Terrified Frenchman. Our Return[229]
A Hint to the Ladies. Ludicrous Scene[231]
Port of Milo[232]
Warlike Mountaineers[233]
Anecdote[234]
Parting of the Royal Brothers[235]
Cerigo. Gulf of Coron. Zante[236]
Distant View of Etna. Valetta[238]
Lazzaretto. Days of Quarrantine[240]
The Parlatorio[241]
Persian Carpets. The Mantilla. Maltese Women[242]
Medical Examination. Steamer from Corfu[243]
Valetta. Maltese Gazette[244]
Garrison of Malta. Strange Conduct of the Prince[245]
Lady Briggs's Ball. Alicata[246]
Miserable State of Sicily. Girgenti[247]
Temple of Hercules. Concord[248]
Reflections. Coliseum. The Parthenon[249]
Temple of Giants. Galley Slaves. Custom-house[250]
Marsala. Mazzara. Vintage[251]
Palermo. Orange and Lemon Groves[252]
Duchess de Berri[253]
Scene on Board[254]
Capri. Conclusion[256]

Addenda.

List of the Turkish Fleet in the Bosphorus, and of Mohammed Ali's Navy[257]
State of the Thermometer at Constantinople[258]
Note to page 24[259]

JOURNAL

OF

A VISIT TO CONSTANTINOPLE,