In our road to the village of Madron, or Madron Church-town, as it is commonly called, we pass Nancealverne, the estate of John Scobell Esq., Poltair, the residence of Edward Scobell Esq., and Trengwainton the seat of Sir Rose Price, Bart. At this latter place considerable exertions have been made to raise plantations, and to clothe the granitic hills behind it with wood; and from the progress already made, we feel sanguine in the ultimate success of the enterprize. Amongst the pictures in the possession of the worthy Baronet are several of the earlier productions of Opie. The head of an aged beggar, by that artist, has frequently excited our admiration, and presents a characteristic specimen of the native simplicity and expression of his style, and the magic force of his chiaro-scuro. This head was painted also under circumstances, a knowledge of which cannot fail to heighten its interest. The father of Sir Rose having been struck by the venerable aspect of an aged mendicant as he was begging in the streets of Penzance, immediately sent for Opie, then residing in the town, and expressed a desire that the young artist should paint his portrait. The beggar was accordingly regaled with a bounteous meal upon the occasion, and Opie appears to have caught his expression at the happy moment, when like the "Last Minstrel" of our northern bard,
— "Kindness had his wants supplied
And the old man was gratified."
The Village of Madron is about two miles to the north-west of Penzance. The church is placed on an elevated situation, and commands a very striking view of Saint Michael's Mount, and its bay. Penzance is a Chapelry of this parish.
Madron Well is situated in a moor about a mile and a half from the Church-town. It is enclosed within walls, which were partially destroyed in the time of Cromwell, by Major Ceeley of St. Ives, but the remains of them are still sufficiently entire to exhibit the form of an ancient Baptistry.[48] The inner wall with its window and door-way, and the altar with a square hole or socket in the centre, which received the foot of the cross or image of the patron saint, are still perfect. The foundation of the outer wall, or anti-room, may be traced with great ease.
Superstition has, of course, attributed many virtues to waters which had been thus hallowed, and this Well, like that of Chapel Euny, has been long celebrated for its medicinal efficacy in restoring motion and activity to cripples,[49] Baptism was administered only at the stated times of Easter and Whitsuntide; but, at all seasons, the virtues of the waters attracted the lame and the impotent; and the altar was at hand to assist the devotion of their prayers, as well as to receive the offerings of their gratitude.
Chemical analysis has been unable to detect in this water the presence of any active ingredient that might explain the beneficial operation attributed to it.
In the road to Morvah we meet with the celebrated Cromlech[50] at Lanyon. It is placed on a prominent hill, and from its lonely situation, and the wildness of the country by which it is surrounded, it cannot fail to inspire sensations of reverential awe in every one who approaches it.[51] This rude monument has been long known amongst the country people by the appellation of the "Giant's Quoit." When the last edition of this "Guide" went to the press it was still standing in its original position, and was thus described. It consists of three unshapen pillars inclining from the perpendicular, which support a large table stone (resembling a Discus or Quoit) in a horizontal position, the direction of which is nearly north and south. The flat stone is 47 feet in girth, and 12 in length, and its height from the ground is sufficient to enable a man on horseback to pass under it.—The aged monument, however, has at length bent beneath the hand of time, and fallen on its side. Its downfall, which happened during a violent tempest, occasioned a universal feeling of regret in the country.