With the country around Mandal he was much pleased; for, although it is far from being fertile, the scenery is rendered exceedingly striking and beautiful by the numerous lakes which wash the feet of high and sometimes perpendicular mountains, at that time clothed with the rich verdure of their summer herbage.
Sir Humphry made several excursions into the interior of the country, and derived much amusement from angling in the lakes; and had it not been from his own inspection of the roads, and the information which he collected respecting them, together with an indisposition of his fellow-traveller, Lord Clifton, he would have made an extensive land journey through the country; but, under the existing circumstances, he determined to return to England through Denmark and Germany. He therefore at once resolved to take the steam-boat with him as far as Sweden, where the excellent roads would enable him, without inconvenience, to reach Gottenburg, and thence to continue his route through Denmark to Germany. The vessel proceeded accordingly to Christiansand, the chief town of a country of the same name.
Having been provided with some spare plates and protectors, he fixed them to the ship's side at Mandal, as he was informed that the voyage could be entirely performed within the rocks, with which the whole coast of Norway is so plentifully studded; but a short traverse through an open part of the sea, not far from Mandal, again defeated his object. The protectors were washed away, and no result was obtained.
At Christiansand he remained a few days, in order to try some new plates, which were constructed there under his own inspection. Upon this occasion he made an excursion to the falls of the Torjedahl, distant about six miles from the town. The river abounds with salmon, which were easily caught in their descent from the falls, by an apparatus contrived for that purpose. Sir Humphry amused himself by teaching the inhabitants the operation of crimping, and he declared the flavour of the fish to be superior to any salmon he had ever tasted.
It was at Christiansand that he became acquainted with the Norwegian race of ponies, so well adapted for mountainous countries; and which, at his recommendation, were afterwards introduced into England by Mr. Knight, of Downton Castle.
From Christiansand the vessel proceeded on her route eastward to Arendal, where she arrived on the 12th, after a passage of only a few hours. The route lay entirely within the rocks,—and so narrow were the passages, that the vessel could frequently not pass the rocks on either side without touching them.
At Arendal, which is the chief place of a remarkable mining district, Sir Humphry was well received by the Messrs. Dedehamys, two brothers, and the leading merchants of the place, with whom he made several excursions to the neighbouring mines. He was also invited by them to meet at their beautiful country seats the most respectable inhabitants of the town.
In the house of Mr. Dedehamy, Davy was introduced into Norwegian society, and, for the first time, had an opportunity of witnessing the customs and manners of the country.
A short time before dinner, the guests were summoned to partake of pickled fish, anchovies, and smoked salmon, with rum, brandy, and wine, which were placed on small tables in the drawing-room in which the company assembled. This custom of taking salt provisions, together with spirits, just before dinner, is very general in the North, and is considered as the best means of preparing the stomach, and of provoking an appetite for the approaching meal.
The very numerous party, which, with the exception of the hostess and her daughter, consisted entirely of men, were then ushered into two large rooms, one not being sufficiently spacious to accommodate them, and each person took his seat promiscuously. At the beginning of the dinner, large basins filled with sugar were carried round by the host's daughter, followed by a servant, from which each gentleman took a large handful. Sir Humphry, surprised at so singular a ceremony, enquired its meaning; when the host very good-humouredly answered, that in Norway they thought, if the wine was good it could not be spoiled by sugar,—and if bad, that it would be improved by it. Davy immediately followed the example of the company, and helped himself to the sugar.