Rotary Pump Defects. A defective circulating pump will cause overheating, as it will supply little if any water to the jackets.
Examine the clutch or coupling that drives the pump and see that the key or pin that fastens it to the shaft is in place. Next see that the driving pinion and gear are in mesh and properly keyed to their respective shafts.
In some cases the shaft has been twisted off, or the coupling pin sheared through by reason of the shaft rusting to the pump casing. Worn gears or impellers IN THE PUMP reduce the output and cause heating, as will a sheared driving pin in the impeller. Wear and bad impeller fits reduce the capacity of the pump.
Scale or sediment collecting in the pump sometimes strips the pins or impeller teeth. Note the condition of the gaskets or whether the pump shaft is receiving the proper amount of grease. Put a strainer in pump intake. See that no leak occurs on pump intake pipe.
To avoid the trouble and expense due to cracked water jackets, never neglect to drain the cylinders and piping from all water in freezing weather. Drain cocks should be provided at the lowest points in the water circulating system for this purpose. It would be well to provide an air cock at the highest point in the line in order that all of the water can drain out as soon as the drain cock is opened.
With automobile or portable engines it is not always convenient or possible to drain the engine every time that it is stopped and consequently we must resort to a “non-freezing” mixture or at least a solution that will not solidify under ordinary winter temperatures. Such a solution should be chosen with care, as many will cause the corrosion and destruction of the jackets and piping; NEVER USE COMMON SALT and water under any conditions.
Wood alcohol and water in equal parts, is often used for automobiles, but is rather expensive for portable engines having a comparatively great amount of water in circulation.
Unless the circulating system is absolutely air tight, as it is when radiators are used, alcohol will be lost by evaporation and must be replaced frequently.
The most practical solution for the average engine used, is made up by dissolving about five pounds of CALCIUM CHLORIDE in one gallon of water. This mixture will stand a temperature of about 15° F below zero, and if diluted to half the strength will not freeze above zero.
Use CALCIUM CHLORIDE, not ordinary Salt (Sodium Chloride).