The mountains of this group cover a tract about forty kilometres in length from north to south, between the Wadis Um Etli and Rahaba and lie closer to the sea than any other mountains in the area described, their peaks being only ten to twelve kilometres from the coast. They consist entirely of granite, weathered into a forest of peaks the forms of which render them in respect of shape the most remarkable mountains in Egypt. There are four main masses in the group, of which the three northern ones are called collectively Faraid, while the southern one, which is smaller than, and separated from, the rest, is called by the diminutive name Fereyid.
The most northern mass of Gebel Faraid is the highest, its principal peak, situated in latitude 23° 33′ 7″, longitude 35° 22′ 10″, being 1,366 metres above sea-level. As seen from the north, this mass appears somewhat like an outspread hand, its western peak seeming to overhang slightly like a thumb, while the higher eastern peaks resemble fingers. The name Mons Pentadactylus given to the mountain in antiquity, and quoted by Ptolemy, would appear to have referred only to this northern mass, and not to the Faraid group as a whole.
The second mass presents from most aspects the form of a nearly flat-topped mountain with a little peak on it and very steep sides. Its highest point, situated in latitude 23° 30′ 53″, longitude 35° 20′ 25″, is 1,259 metres above sea, and forms a main triangulation point; it is too sharp to support an instrument or even a beacon, and observations had to be taken from an auxiliary station a little distance away from the summit and reduced to centre. In ascending this peak as a survey station I approached it from the west by the Wadi el Abiad and Wadi Abu Ribian, placing my camp close under the mountain, on a sandy plain 450 metres above sea-level and one and a half kilometres north-west of the summit. The climb of 800 metres was steep, but not dangerous, and occupied about three hours. The lower illustration on [Plate XIV] (p. 192) shows the top of the mountain; the lower of the two peaks is the one occupied for triangulation.
The third mass of Faraid is a great expanse of peaks extending over eighteen kilometres north and south and some twelve kilometres east and west. Its highest peak, called “The Bodkin” by the Admiralty surveyors, has the position latitude 23° 28′ 58″, longitude 35° 20′ 35″, and rises to 1,232 metres above sea-level, dominating the rest of the mass both by its height and its singular form; it is a great sharp pinnacle, apparently unclimbable, visible from distances of over 100 kilometres in nearly all directions, and a very conspicuous landmark. South and west of “The Bodkin” are numerous other peaks, some of which have been fixed by triangulation; several of them rise to over 900 metres above the sea, and the whole forms a compact mass across which there appears to be no passage for camels.
Gebel Fereyid, the fourth and most southerly of the masses constituting the Faraid group, is a small spiky range quite detached from the rest, about seven kilometres north of the Wadi Rahaba. It has two main peaks, close together, of which the north-western one is slightly the higher and is surmounted by a beacon, 612 metres above sea-level, in latitude 23° 17′ 29″, longitude 35° 22′ 48″. In occupying this peak as a triangulation station, the camp was fixed in one of the heads of a nameless wadi draining past the north face of the mountain to the sea, at an altitude of 200 metres above sea-level and 850 metres north-north-east of the beacon. The ascent was easy till within about fifty metres of the summit, when it became difficult and rather dangerous, and there is very little room on the top. I had to remain six days on this mountain owing to almost continuous haze and clouds blocking the view.
The drainage from the western faces of the entire Faraid group is taken by the Wadi Rahaba. That from the peaks north of “The Bodkin” is collected by the Wadi el Abiad and its feeders the Rod Elbel and Wadi Abu Ribian, while the more southern parts are drained by various other tributaries of Wadi Rahaba, of which the principal are the Wadis Dagalai lil Rahaba, Abu Had, and el Marafai. The heads of Wadi el Abiad and its feeders cross a sloping sandy plain which flanks the main peaks on the west. Of the eastern drainage, less has been seen; the two principal drainers of the eastern face appear to be the Wadis el Sorubiab and Bint el Kurdum, which unite together in a small lagoon close to the coast in latitude 23° 30′. The head of the Wadi Bint el Kurdum is between “The Bodkin” and the flat-topped mountain to the north of it, and from the summit of the latter it appeared as though there might be a possible pass by it across the range into the heads of Wadi Abu Ribian; but I did not have an opportunity of testing this. The foot-hills are only some five or six kilometres from the coast near the north parts of the range, but as one goes south the width of the coast-plain increases somewhat, and is about twelve kilometres near Gebel Fereyid. Notwithstanding the height of the Faraid mountains, their proximity to the coast, and the clouds they frequently attract, there appear to be no wells in the wadis draining from them; the explanation is probably to be sought in the fact that the weathering of the granite of which they are composed produces large expanses of coarse sand round their feet, in which the rainfall is rapidly absorbed.
The Awamtib — Abraq — Dif — Aqab el Negum — Mishbih Group.
The mountains of this large and irregular group occupy the western parts of the great drainage basin of Wadi Hodein, some of the chief of them forming the main watershed separating that basin from those of the Wadis Kharit and Alaqi. The northern mountains of the group are high broken sandstone plateaux, while the southern ones consist largely of granite. The sandstone ranges of Abraq, Hodein, and Dif are remarkable for the numerous springs at their bases, which render this district (see the large scale map on [Plate XV]) one of great importance to travellers.
Gebel Awamtib is the highest peak of a great mass of high sandstone hills forming the main watershed between latitudes 23° 20′ and 23° 30′ and extending for some eight or ten kilometres on either side of the meridian of 34° 30′. The highest peaks of the mass are mostly well to the west of the actual watershed, and the principal drainage channels run westward, those to the east, the feeders of Wadi Muegil, being shorter. Gebel Awamtib is near to the south-east corner of this mass, and is itself situated about six kilometres west of the watershed. It is nearly separated from the surrounding hills by wadis, and forms a conspicuous peak from the west; but the neighbouring hills approach it so nearly in height that it is not so easily distinguished from the east. It may, however, be picked out by the triangulation beacon which marks its summit, 793 metres above sea-level, in latitude 23° 20′ 59″, longitude 34° 26′ 39″. Gebel Awamtib is drained westward by the Wadi Awamtib (a tributary of Wadi Timsah), the heads of which nearly surround it. In occupying the station I pitched my camp in a small feeder of the Wadi Awamtib, two and a quarter kilometres south-west of the summit and 456 metres above sea-level. The climb from this place was easy enough, but rather long, and on reaching the top I found it would have been better to have approached the mountain by another feeder almost due west of the beacon, as by this means a camp could have been placed much closer and the ascent would not have been more difficult. It is inadvisable to ascend from the east face of the mountain, for although one of the wadi heads passes close east of the beacon, the slope on that side is extremely steep and probably unscalable. The top of the mountain is formed of large sandstone blocks under which one can get good shelter from dews, though with little head-room. The view from it is shut in to the east by the peaks of Gebel Shebakhit, only two kilometres distant; but the peaks of Gebels Um Harba and Zergat Naam can be seen to the north, while to the south and south-east one looks out over high sandstone hills in the foreground to the granite peaks of Gebels Shigigat, Aqab el Negum, Etresia, Um Reit and Saalek. The most striking thing round Awamtib itself is the strong westward dip of the sandstone beds of which it is composed, which has conditioned the drainage and the steep eastern face.
Gebel Shebakhit is a group of high sandstone hills a few kilometres north of Awamtib. It is drained north-westward by the broad Wadi Shebakhit, a tributary of Wadi Timsah.