Early voyages and travels in the Levant

by John Covel; Thomas Dallam

At six o’clock we met with two of our men of war going out of the Streights. About 12 o’clock that night, or something after, The Pearl fell foul upon our Ship, and rent of the Gallery on the Larboard side. Some of the passengers (who lay in the G. Cabin) were up, and one of them had just been in that very gallery, but feeling it somewhat cold, he did not stay, but stept into the G. cabin, and in that very moment this damage happened. The crash of the gallery alarmed us all, but we soon recovered ourselves when we understood the whole matter. However, we had all, indeed (especially that Gentleman) a great deliverance, for had the wind or waves become so high as to have rowl’d the Pearl upon us with greater violence, we might have (one or both) gone to the bottome. S. D. G.

Oct. 13. About 11 o’clock the whole fleet was becalm’d on a sodain under C. Malaga; yet, by 6 that evening, we had a stiff gale for half-an-hour. At 8 we came to anchor before Malaga, in 14 fathom water. Next morning, about ten, we went on shore and hosted with Signor Carlos, an Irishman.

The first thing we went to see was the Major Domo, or great Church. It is, to the best of my remembrance, in a manner, round, Scalop’t, as it were, on the sides into 6 or 7 hollow moldings, like vast great niches; and in every one was an Altar for private Masse.[187] The Cupola is hang’d upon rows of pillars, set in a round likwise, so as we may walk conveniently between them and the Entrance into those round Isles or niches. We were there in the time of high masse, yet, so long as we were bare-headed, and behaved ourselves gravely and civilly, we might walk up and down and se every thing without the least molestation. One of our company (a young man who had had the misfortune of too precise an Education), seing we design’d to go into the Domo, came to me and my brethren (the other two Chaplaines going for Smyrna and Aleppo), and askt us whether we were not afraid, and touch’t in conscience, to go into an Idol Temple, as he cal’d it. I told him I was of St. Paul’s mind, To me an Idol is nothing. I could myself freely go into it, if it was an Idol Temple, for God, the searcher of hearts, knowes that I do not do it to joyn in their way of worship, but onely to se it and be the better able to discourse of it as an eye witnesse, and confute what was really unlawfull in it. But I bad him have a care; if he had any scruple, I advised him to go home, which he did. I mention this passage here, because this young man that was so extremely scrupulous, fell into great debaucheries afterwards at Smyrna, and at last turn’d Turk. Let the greatest Saint that thinketh he standeth, take heed lest he fall.

We thence went to see Sta. Victoria, which is a convent of Augustines. In their Church are (ἀναθήματα) offerings hang’d up without number, in memory of deliverances and miracles wrought by that Saint, which they there call virgo miraculosissima. Amongst the rest is a small boat of reeds, cover’d over with a kind of Tarpaulin, about 4 or 5 yards long, in which 7 Christians (after their prayers, I suppose, to this Saint) escaped from captivity at Algiers to this port. There hangs up the effigies of a child that was raised from the dead, and a serpent of great length (I guest it 4 or 5 yards), which had been destroy’d by Christians in Africa, and sent hither. There is within (as in most convents) a fair square court, cloyster’d above and beneath; in the upper cloyster are the Brethren’s cells, in the lower the walls are hang’d with pictures, most of them representing miracles wrought by their saints. One was how a dish of fry’d fish, by a crosse of the Saint’s finger (I think it was the founder of their Order), revived, and leapt down out of the dish as quick as ever they were. Another was how he supported a stone of 100 tons weight (that was falling upon him and his attendants) only with his stick, or, rather, with a bullrush in his hand. My brother Huntingdon[188] and I convers’t with the good Fathers that went about with us in the Latine, and as any very remarkable thing occurr’d we interpreted the story in English to our company. Now it happen’d that one Paulo, a Greek (who had been in England some time to learn our language, in order to be a Turgeman[189] to our nation at Smyrna), being by, and hearing us recount these miracles, very indiscreetly broke out into a loud laughter. The Fathers were very highly and very justly incensed at it, and we had much adoe to pacify them, and excuse the folly of the fact. It hath been a warning to me to make better choyce of my company in such places ever since, least I might suffer for the men’s rudeness and childish indiscretion.

Therefore that evening, with more wary friends, we went and saw (San Domingo) the Convent of the Dominicians. It was a very fine and sweet place, built much after the fashion of the former, but much more beautifull and stately. In the middle of the court was a little garden, enclosed with a hedge of oranges and lemons, like our codling[190] hedges; in the quarters stood small orange and lemon trees, and pots of several very pleasant greens. Santering up and down, we walk’t into the Upper Cloyster; and seeing a door and entry open into a fair room, where somebody was talking, one of our company, who spoke Spanish, ventur’d boldly in, but sodainly made a profer to retire, as being mistaken. It happen’d to be a very Reverend Father’s lodging, who presently stept out to us and accepted our apologyes as being strangers, and not knowing our way out. He earnestly invited us in and gave us a noble treat of sweetmeats and fruits, and several sorts of wine. He afterwards caryed us down into a large garden, and bad us gather what oranges and lemons, and what fruits and flowers we pleased, and at last brought us out to the gate, where, with all decent respect, and many thanks for his extraordinary courtesy and civility, we took our leave. He had in his chamber very many excellent pictures; one was of Christ taken from the Crosse, which he valued at 3,000 dollars; besides the admirable painting, I took especiall notice of the unusuall manner of the head, the face being roundish, the hair being flaxen, or inclined to yellow, and the beard short and curl’d round about the chin.

Next morning, Oct. 15, an ingenious Gaille man[191] (one Mr. Jolly) and I, by chance were standing by one of the gates of the City towards the Sea, and talking of the strength of the Town. I happen’d to say that gate seem’d so decay’d and crazy, as surely it could not well be moved without falling to pieces. There stood a man just by us in mean habit (but dressed in all things like a Spaniard) who, in as good English as we could speak, said, Yes, Sir, I assure you it is shut every night and opened every morning, as you may guesse by the Hinges; which were then almost worn away. We were not a little surprised, and we made this reflection in ourselves upon it, that Strangers ought to be very carefull what they talk in their own language in other Countryes before them whome they know not, for they may be better understood then they think for, and easily entrapt or involved in difficultyes beyond what they intended or imagin’d. However, it happen’d otherwise with us now, for, talking farther with him, he proved an high man who was maryed and lived in Town; he was extreamly civil to us, and offer’d to show us what we had not yet seen of the City. We accepted the favour, and with him we went to several Nunneryes, where, instead of dull, mopish, vapour’d women, or grave precise matrons, as we expected, we found as pleasant, bright, and airy ladyes as ever I met with all elsewhere in all my life. Their particular chat is not worth the recounting, but it was extreamely gentile, merry, and diverting. We past for Captaines (I suppose our Interpreter had named us so), and they beg’d of us every where for some cheese, or butter, or Holland, or thin stuffs. We always stick to one answer, assuring them that we had no provisions to spare, for we put into that port on purpose to buy some; we were laden only with Tin and Lead for Turkey, and some cloth which was not our own. They offer’d us many fine works and several sorts of sweetmeats to sale; we bought some which were very admirably well done. My Lord Baltimore[192] had then a daughter in one of these Nunneryes which we saw (I think it was at San Bernado); she was but a girl, and placed there onely for education, and undoubtedly (setting religion aside) it is a way of breeding infinitely beyond all our English Schools. A very lovely sister there beg’d a silver pick-tooth and case of me, and return’d me for it a pretty little picture of the V. M., curiously wrought, all with coloured straw. Platonic love is here very much esteem’d and practised, and really I have that charity and Justice to believe it may be done with perfect innocence. In one place we found a jolly Friar talking at the grate with the Sisters, who, with great civility, retired so soon as we came in. Once, as we were sitting by them, in came a surly, stately Don, very richly attired; and after a profound reverence towards the Ladys, and a kind of a scornfull nod to us, he lean’d his head to the wall by the side of the grate, and with his armes and leggs acrosse, and his eyes fixt upon one of them (which was very ingenious, but not handsome), he stood thare in such a fixed posture as, had it not been sometimes for a sneaking silly sigh (true or feign’d, I know not), you would have thought he rather saw Medusa’s head then his dear Dulcinea’s face. He spoil’d all our mirth; all was hush’d, and after a decent pause we left him to his Devotions. He askt our Interpreter whether we were Catholics; he answered Yes, and all past very well.

One of our English Merchants there (of good repute, though I shall not vouch the truth of his story), hearing me recount this adventure, told us that about 7 or 8 years before, soon after his first coming to Malaga, he had got acquainted with a young Sister, and often waited upon her, as well to divert himself as to perfect his Spanish Tounge; for there at the grate you have all the newes that is stirring, and the best and most refined language. He by degrees was wheedled into such fondnesse, as the presents which he had at several times made her came in a short time to about 40 lb. He found (being but a young beginner) that his trade would not bear so expensive a diversion, where upon his visits were more seldome, and his presents very few and meane, and at last he came no more at her at all, nor answer’d one line, though he received many most passionate ones from her, and there had past many such (as the manner is) betwixt them before. Not long after, he was one evening set upon by a Rogue (which she had hired), and was desperately wounded, and narrowly escaped with his life. The Rufian soon after confest it, being himself mortally wounded and taken in such another enterprise. And here I cannot omit another story of our worthy Captain. About 8 or 10 yeares since, he had great concernes with a wealthy Spaniard, a merchant of this City, and very much kindnesse past between them, insomuch as they call’d brothers, and Captain Hill lay on shoar at his house and was freely treated there, sometimes for many dayes together. It happen’d that another Spaniard (a neighbour who often came thither, and was of both their familiar acquaintance), being a great Bigot, and very zealous for the Roman way of worship, often made attempts upon our Captain to make him a Prosolyte; and there being once some great Festivall and a solemne procession to be made, he desired our Friend to be there, adding that he doubted not in the least that he would then yield and be convinced of all his errors. The Captain, having appointed either some business or some other recreation, civilly excused himself, and thank’t him for his kindnesse and good wishes. It so fell out in the procession that, as they were carrying the Image of the V. M. on men’s shoulders in Triumph (as their manner is on such occasions), either by the stumbling of the bearers or some other miscarriage, over she tumbled, and fell down directly on her face upon the stones. At night all three met to sup at the merchant’s house, and immediately this zealot accosted the captain: “O, Sir, had you been here to-day at the procession to have seen the many miracles which were wrought, I am sure you could no longer have resisted the truth; such a blind man received his sight, and such a deaf woman recover’d her hearing, and a poor neighbour of ours, that hath gon with crutches to my knowledge these many yeares, threw them away, and leap’t and walk’t as well as I can do.” Our Captaine, who had heard of the Ladye’s misfortune, reply’d: “Surely, Sir, it is a wonder indeed that the B. V. cured the Deaf and the Lame and the Blind; I heard she fell down and broke her own Nose. I pray, can you tell whether she cured that or no?” The Bigot, at this gibe, fell into such a rage, as nothing at first would serve turne but the poor Heretique must go into the Inquisition; and neither former friendship nor Interest nor persuasion could prevayl of a good while to pacyfy him. The good Merchant himself (the common friend), being not a little offended, though it was spoken onely in merriment, and under (the Rose, as we say) the freedome and protection of his own house. So nice a thing it is in some countrys to jest or meddle with the publick Religion.

There is a Nunnery here (as I remember, it is call’d San Joseph) where young infants are received and brought up: Poor people that are not well able to provide for their children, or others who have Bastards, secretly bring them in the night, and, pulling a bell to give notice, they lay them in a moving kind of hollow Roller placed in the wall on purpose, and so turn them in, themselves who bring them being unseen and undiscovered. If the child be baptised, the name is noted or written upon the breast, and oftentimes mention is made of some peculiar mark made by nature or Art somewhere on the body, by which they may be known again; and there is also a register kept in the convent of all that are so brought in. In my opinion it is a very great peice of charity to allow such places, though at first thought they may indeed seem a kind of encouragement for lew’d persons more securely to commit wickednesse; yet, undoubtedly, they save the lives of many poor innocent Babes. I have met with those who have ventur’d to say, that if a poor Votaresse there, or any where else in Town, should by chance steal a taste of forbidden pleasure, the Fruits of her frailty and the honour of the Society are this way secured; but I always look’t upon this as a satyrical conjecture rather then a known truth.

The Spaniard’s common diet in Malaga, such as it is, is extraordinarily cheap. We took my landlord’s dinner the first day, which was a large ensalada or sallet, a pottage of onyons, gourds, and herbs; a little fry’d fish, dryed and cold, with oyl; mala infana (which they call here Melongenas), a sort of gourd, pear-fashioned, some as big as my fist (I think Gerard calls them in English mad-apples[193]), split and fil’d with a little pepper, oil, and salt, and then broil’d or stew’d: these, thus drest, they count rich food, and they slice them also into their pottage. Of these and such stuff eight of us eat what we could, and paid but a Real (about 6d.) for all, besides bread and wine; but at night, for 4 fowles and a neck of mutton stew’d, six of us paid a dollar and half apiece, besides wine, which is near 50 Shillings of our money; and next day, at dinner, for one joynt of mutton and a little forequarter of Lamb and two foules, 12 of us paid a dollar a piece, besides wine, which is about 3 lb. English.

We staid one night with mine Host on shoar, and we had a proud fellow which entertain’d us a while with a song or two to a Guitarra. He first lay’d by his old threadbare cloak with great deliberation and wonderfull gravity; then, with his dagger behind and his hat cock’t, his eyes staring, his browes bent, and his Mostachos new brush’t, he yell’d and acted with that strange state and fiercenesse, as if he had been swaggering at some desperate criminals and threatening to hang them; but, with a Real or two we came off well enough. After supper and a little chat we thought of our lodgings. All that lay on twills and bedsteads were sorely bitten with little bugs, which left hard knobs and pimples wherever they seised. I, with one or two more, had the fortune to putt our twills for coolnesse into the middle of the floor, which (as all above stairs as well as those below are) was laid with brick, and we escaped all these pestilent companions. These insects, so well known in all hot countryes (but to us never seen before), are here called chismes and chinches, and in Italian cimici, from the Latin cimex, in French punaises; they are shaped much like a spider, but far lesse, with six legges and a bottled[194] breech, the back being often reddish. They are truly cal’d by Pliny[195] most nasty animals, for besides their venomous bite they have (especially if they are bruised) a most intolerable filthy smel. One of our comrades, catching one in the night as it was preying upon him, and thinking it had been a flea (after a slovingly custome which he had got), bit it with his teeth, thinking so to kill it; but the abominable stink set him on vomiting in such a manner as he verily thought he had been poyson’d; which make me amazed how they came to be prescribed inwardly by the antients as a medicine against feavers,[196] unlesse it was that (after the Italian proverbe, Un Diavolo scaccia il altro) one devil drives out another; but, perhaps, being drunk in wine, they may go down whole, and not prove so nauseous. We started a controversy, whether these chinches and fleas, and gnats (and flyes) have any smeling or no, and we concluded clearly in the affirmative, not only because these never stir out of their holes and lurking-places till the steam and perspiration of your bodyes invite them, but because all strong smels drive them away, as the savour of wormwood, Lavender, Rue, Hemp, Hops, Russia Leather, and the like, and the smoke of these and such other strong smelling herbs doth the same. And we were told here that many use the Squilla or Sea Onyon, cut into pieces, and thrust into the joynts and crevices of their bedsteads, or strew’d on their mats; as likewise they presse out the juyce of them, and use it in like manner. It is manifest that the fierce effluviums of these things very grievously affect these vermin, and seeing they all have eyes, why may they not as well have organs of smelling, or something Analogous to it?