Early voyages and travels in the Levant

by John Covel; Thomas Dallam

At last we came up to a place which our Guides and our Seaman call’d Queen Dido’s Tomb. We all concluded at first that these were the Elephant Stables so much talkt of by old Authors, but at last I chang’d my opinion, and do now verily think that they were onely cisternes for keeping of water, as Tunis[206] is also now supply’d by such cisternes. We were told that farther up towards Cape Carthage there are more considerable mines, and finer things to be seen; but there was a Mosque there, and several houses about it, where we were informed many Dervises or holy men lived, and that it was dangerous going amongst them. Leo Africanus makes them very great, but we were not near enough to judge anything of their Grandeur. However, I and another happened to straggle a little that way from our company, and one of our guides threw down his mantle and his staf, and would not stir till we came back; for he said his head would go for it if we should commit any error, or come by any harme through his neglect, so he hallow’d us backward, and we obey’d. It seems sometimes there are streight Arabs (i.e., Arabs from the Straits) lye lurking about, not far off from the shore, who, if they can conveniently snap any stranger, they will spirit him away and sell him for a Slave; so that upon all accounts I think it was very well that our curiosity carried us no farther that way.

* * * * *

When we were come on board, we design’d next morning to go and see Tunis, but this unhappy accident disappointed us. Most of our malcontents, before mentioned, went thither in the morning when we went to Carthage. We had no Factory there, but onely an English Consul to do all our business, whose name then was Mr. Earlesman. They waited upon him and embroyl’d him with their story. Our Admiral had wrote to him the night before to invite him to dinner that day, but the letter chanced to pass through some of their hands, and came not to him till past ten o’clock, being then delivered by one of them. The Consul (whether upon this account, or whether he staid to entertain them, I know not) staid at home, and returned no answer to the Admiral, who staid dinner for him, and at last was disappointed in his design’d treat. About eight at night the Consul came to him to excuse himself, but the whole matter was so ill-resented by the Admiral, as he resolved to weigh Anchor that night. The Consul urged that the Martin (the ship which the Admiral was so earnest to bring in there) was almost unladen (for all our ships’ crews helpt him with their long bootes), and would infallibly be ready to go with us by twelve the next day, being bound for Zant. But the Admirall thought himself too much neglected; first, because the Consul came not of his own accord to wait upon him; next, because he came not when kindly sent for; so, in a heat and a hurry, we were all forced to weigh Anchor that night about eleven o’clock. Several, perhaps, that staid at Tunis all night, were left behind. Paulo, the Greek, with whom we were embroyl’d at Malaga, was one, and one of the Admiral’s passengers was another, being an Armenian Bishop, who had studyed sometime in Italy, and now went home as a Roman Emissary or Seminary. All our Ship’s company were, by good fortune, on board, and we came away together.

Capt. 6th.—Our Passage from Tunis to Cervi.

We had newes at Tunis that twelve Algerine men of war were gon to the Eastward; some designing for the Archipelago, others for Rhodes, Cyprus, and those parts towards the end of the Mediterranean. This made our whole fleet keep company together, and for this reason the Consul was more earnest that the Admiral should take the Martin away with him, but it was left behind. Notwithstanding this ruffle between the Admiral and Consul, when the Consul went of (which was about nine or ten at night) he was complimented with nine guns, being in that station the King’s representative.

Nov. 7th. At two o’clock the Admiral call’d all the commanders on board to a consult, and the next day we dined all on board the Assurance.

Nov. 8th. Tuesday, when we were past Zant (having C. Matapan to the E. about eight leagues, and Sapienza about ten to the N.), about five after noon we saw a spout to the Northward. We had most dismal turbulent weather for thre whole dayes and nights, and a constant rain, with most dreadful thunder and Lightning almost all the time. The dry weather which we had till now had so parch’d the wast[207] of the ship and the upper timburs, and made all above so leaking, as I could not keep my cabin dry; one night I was soundly wet as I lay on my bed. I was informed that it was very usuall to have such tempestuous weather hereabouts at this time of the year; and our captain told us that in Zant earthquakes are very frequent, that he hath known twelve in a week. That the people in summer almost all leave their houses and live abroad till winter. That on the west side, far from the Sea, is a mountain that spues forth a sort of petroleum, or Bituminous Lime, as black as soot, and it will grow hard and look like it, which was not unknown to Pliny.[208] This issues out on the East side of the mountain, and flames alwayes arose plentifully when the west wind blowes, and hath then a stronger smell then at other times.

Wednesday, Nov. 9th. The Sailors that had been on the watch told me that in the night, after the storme was over, they had seen two little Lights, one at the foremast top, the other hanging upon one of the main stayes. They call’d them Corposans; I suppose from Corpo Santo, as the Italians name them, believing them to be the Ghosts of some saints who come to relieve them. But our men would hardly be persuaded but that they were not some Hobgoblins or Fairies, or the inchanted Bodyes of witches, and we had many a fine story told to that purpose. The Heathens of old when they saw but one named it Helena,[209] when two, both, that is, Castor and Pollux; why they were then made the Seamen’s Tutelar Gods or saints you may see at large in Natalis Comes,[210] and determine whether the antient or modern superstition is more justyfiable. Our seamen assur’d us that in many voyages to the Indyes and elsewhere they have seen sometimes six or seven together (sometimes many more parted or splintr’d into small globulor sparks, like pills), and hanging as it were on the yards and sails, or upon the masts, but most commonly aloft, which makes me adde this one reason to what Carles[211] hath given us why so many sometimes appear together in our dayes, whereas not above thre at most (and that most rarely) are mentioned as ever seen together by the antients, viz.: as our Ships are bigger, and of more ballast and burthen, so their masts and yards and riggings are caryed much higher, and by consequence more of that unctious gleam, which after the dissolution of the clouds and ceasing of the Tempest remains dispersed in the Air, and affords matter for these Meteors, is rather aloft than nearer to the Hull of the ship, and so is more plentifully met with all by the upper rigging and tackles, and cleaves to them. And asking farther about this point, they told me these lights are oftner seen and more together upon a tall ship then upon a pinnace or small vessel.[212] I was not a little displeased with our seamen who were on the watch that night, because they did not call me; whereupon the next night (Nov. 9) they did call me, for after very much Thunder and Lightning and tempestuous weather, about four o’clock appear’d two more, one towards the main top, which disappeared before I got out, the other was at the very top of the fore-mast. They told me it was beginning to fade. It seem’d a dim light, as of a flame, shining through a steam or smoak,[213] about the bignesse and shape of an ordinary egge, the top a little wavered, and growing fainter and lesser it soon went out. When I came back into the great Cabin, there appear’d a Circle about the candle which stood on the Table; I would call it rather a Halo, because it was very little coloured. The farther we were from it the plainer it appear’d and bigger (almost as broad as both my hands); as we came nearer to it it lessen’d proportionably, and just at it we could not perceive it, all which depended on the various refractions through the moist and mixt vapours which then fill’d the Air. One of our Mates told me that once, as he sailed formerly in these streights, there appear’d a very bright Helena at the very spindle of the main top mast, and one of their men went up and moved his hand round about, and neither saw nor felt anything, when they below saw it all the time. We sent up one to ours, but before he got at it it went out; perhaps his approaching might move and part the Air, and contribute something to its so soon vanishing. But if what our Mate told us be true, it requires more consideration than I thought fit to afford it at that time, unlesse I had seen the like.

Nov. 10. Cape St. John (or the west end of Candia) lay in sight of us S.E., and the Admiral came about ten o’clock on board us to take his leave. After two houres stay he went of, and we gave him seven guns, the three last with shot, as a token of more respect. His Ship answer’d again with great civility. Capt. Partridge, with the Turkey Merchant (whether he had not yet fully digested his discontent about our going into Tunis, or whether it was the natural rugged temper of the man, I know not), sailed away before the Admiral, for Scanderoon, without taking any civil leave, or firing one gun. We remained now but seven in company: six Turkey Merchant Men and Capt. Wild in the Assurance, our Convoy and Admiral. After Capt. Robinson and Capt. Partridge were gon, Capt. Wild came to dine with us, and as we were set newes was brought in by one of our powder monkey’s from the Top Mast head that there were five great ships a Head, coming stem for stem towards us. We all concluded that they were some of the Algerines before mention’d, therefore Capt. Wild immediately returned to his Ship, and gave the signal to the whole fleet to make ready to engage them. At the top mast head, with a glasse, I made seven of them, there being two small vessells besides the first five. It was pleasure to se the great alacrity and readinesse, I may say the eagernesse, of our Seamen in preparing for the dispute. All their Hamocks were down in a trice; their chests and lumber turn’d out into the boates, or stived[214] by the main chains or elsewhere, out of the way. We had a clear ship in a very little while, and all our men posted in their several quarters, and rounds of powder and ball provided by every gun. Our Captain told me, if I pleased I might go down into the hold, and be safe there with the Chirurgeon. I told him if he would give me leave I would rather stand by him all the while, for I should as heartily and (he need not doubt) as earnestly pray for our good successe there as any where else. He thankt me, and told me it would not a little encourage his men to se me above board. With that all our Passengers took heart and came and stood with me upon the quarter deck, where were armes and ammunition provided for us all. We were to be the second Ship in the line, and after we had all made a little back till we were all ready, we bore up bravely to them. But when we came at them they proved five French men of warre, with one Satée[215] and another small vessell with a meson[216] and stay sail,[217] which I suppose were as Tenders.[218] They belong’d to the same Squadron with those which we saw by Tunis under Monsr. Martell. One of their Lieutenants went on board our Admirall, and told him that they came from Toulon, and had been looking out for Tripoleses and Tuneses, who it seems had been there abouts six or seven days before. Being asked, he said the Algerines were about Rhodes and Cyprus. And thus our scare fight past over, without any blowes. My Curiosity was fully gratyfied with this Prelude of a battle, for I believe I could give a shrewd guesse at all the rest, and that I then thought enough. Though indeed I did not see the least sign of fear or want of courage in any one, yet I suppose all of us were well satisfyed and pleased to sleep that night in a whole skin.

For thre or four dayes the wind was full in our eye; we tacked and tumbled backwards and forwards between Cerigo and the W. end of Candia; then we got between C. Matapan and Cervi; and having been thus beaten up and down, and made no progresse, and little hopes being left of a fair wind, by consent we came all to Anchor on the S.W. side of Cervi,[219] in nineteen fathom water, about five o’clock, Nov. 14, afternoon. That evening I went with the Captain in his pinnace sounding the several depths in the bay, and then went on board our Admiral, where all the Captaines resolved to go on shore next morning for what provisions we could find, especially of wood (whereof there is plenty), and fresh water if we could find any. Next morning our Capt. and I and two of our Gentlemen passengers went on shore in the yale[220] betimes, before any of the other Commanders appear’d. We landed at a spot where it was plain ground and an open place, and therefore free from Ambuscades. Immediately came down an old Greek from the top of the mountain in a poor patch’t habit, in a thick coarse jacket, a woollen shirt, with no stockings nor shoes, but onely some pieces of a raw hide of an oxe or bull wer laced[221] on to the soales of his feet with the hair side inwards, which I suppose never go of till time and rottennesse separate them. With these his feet are so plyable that he can easily go up or down a rock which our shoes will not suffer us to do, at least with that dexterity. Old Hesiod was born not very far from hence, and I thought we had had one of his old acquaintance risen from the dead and come to us, his coat and socks and shirt being exactly in his Boetian fashion. He had a skul cap on, border’d with a Lambskin, which he pull’d off, and came boldly to us. We had a native Greek in our boates crew, and he was our Interpreter, for I spoke as good school Greek to him as I could in our pronunciation, but my language seem’d as perfect gibberish to him as his did to me. We askt for Flesh: Sheep, bullocks, goates, and the like. He told us they were all driven of the Island the day before, for they took us for Africans and Enemyes, seing us lying so long upon their coast. We askt for water. He told us there was none but what was preserved from the rain in hollow basins in the Rocks, which he directed us to; and I afterwards tasted of it, and found it good. There are no people who continually live there, but they come from the continent to till the ground, which lyes on the edges of the mountain round by the Sea, and had good corn then growing on it; they likewise bring sheep and other cattel sometimes from the main land to feed here. We asked him if he could procure any cattel or other necessaryes to be brought over for our money. He said he would go and informe his friends, and see what he could do; he doubted not but we might have something; in the meantime he shew us where we might try for water. He answer’d all along with such a show of innocent simplicity as we were much pleased with him; and I gave him a Tunbridge knife which I had in my pocket, and everyone likewise gave him something, which he received with a wonderfull submissive reverence, and promising us a very grateful returne of our kindnesse, away he went, running directly up the mountain. By this time all the other Commanders (except Capt. Wild) and a great many of their men were come on shore. Most of them brought fire Armes with them, and in all we might then make about a hundred Firelocks. All the Captaines strictly commanded their men not to stir far from the shore; and our Captain, to make us more wary, told us that in the year (as I remember) 1664 our general ships passing by here for Turkey came to an Anchor, and many went on shore on the mainland there, whereof thre worthy merchants and six or seven others were snapt by the natives, who lay in wait for them, and it cost them 1,600 dollars for their redemption. The Turkes call that part of Peloponnesus (as well as all Thrace) Romania; and from that word (by an Aphaeresis) these wicked people are called Maniotes (as the inhabitants of Smyrna, Scio, Cyprus, Candia, are called Smyrniotes, Sciotes, Cypriotes, Candiotes, and the like elsewhere). These who live upon the Rocks and mountaines by the Sea are a sort of lawlesse people, and the Turkes themselves cannot govern them or reduce them into any good order. These miscreant wretches lye constantly watching upon the Rocks and Mountaines, not so much to secure themselves from the injuryes of Pirates as themselves to Thieve and rob whome they can catch, and all the Christian Passengers which they can seise on the shore they sell to the Turkes to serve in their Galleys or otherwise as slaves; and I have been assured that if they can conveniently spirit away Turkes themselves they will serve even them in like manner, and sell them for slaves to any Christian who will be their chapman.[222] There was a fawning cunning varlet came to those Gentlemen then, and pretended to procure them all manner of provisions which they could desire, but betray’d them then, as this vile wretch did us now. I could not but call to mind old Sinon in Virgil,[223] for our Cheat seem’d to pretend to the very same motto: Poor, but very honest. Believe me, Greeks are Greeks still; for falsenesse and treachery they still deserve Iphigenia’s character of them in Euripides,[224] Trust them and hang them, or rather hang them first for sureness. We kept in little bodys near the shore, where there were small thickits of Juniper and mirtles with their berrys then ripe, and we had excellent sport in killing Fieldfares and Thrushes, and such other birds, which were there at feed in great abundance. Some went towards the Sandhills, where was store of game in little plashes made by the sea-water, which was cast in there by winds and stormes. After we had sported our selves a while with shooting in these thickets and Plashes,[225] two or thre of our Commanders invited me to a Collation, and as we were set in the shade under some pieces of rocks, we saw several of our men (notwithstanding all the Captaine’s commands, and our Captaine’s History) struggling up the Mountain. One was habited something like our Captain, and, at a distance, appear’d indeed to be him; whereupon some Gentlemen coming by us would by all meanes have tempted my Curiosity to have follow’d them, but our Captaine’s lecture at our coming on shore had stir’d up such wary apprehensions and jealous reflections in my mind, as I could not possibly be persuaded that it was he; and the Captaines there with me were in a very great rage to see such inconsiderate people running into that danger. No sooner had these gentlemen left us but we hear’d thre or four guns go of upon the Mountain; and, looking up, we saw some of the Straglers posting down in wonderful haste; and presently appear’d several Men brandishing their cutlasses or Cimitars, and making them glitter against the Sun. We immediately rose, and went to the body of our Company to hear what was the matter. It happen’d that five or six gentlemen had got some seamen with them, and away they had ventur’d up the mountain. The Gentlemen (I know not whether it was by good Fortune or Policy) were hindermost, and just as their Vanguard was got on the brow of the other side the Mountain, up rose about a dozen Rogues, who had layn sculking there in the thickets, and ran upon them. They being scatter’d abroad, and not near one another by fourty or fifty yards or more, at this surprise fired upon the Rogues without doing any execution (perhaps most of them were charg’d only with small shot). So soon as their fire was over, the Rogues came more boldly on, though armed onely with half Pikes and Cutlasses. Our Seamen, who had not in the least considered to make good their retreat, threw down their Armes, and betook themselves to their heels. But our gentlemen had the start of them, and so, God be thanked, these all escaped, though very narrowly, all coming down without their Armes, most without their Hats, some with but a piece of a Shoe, their feet and leggs being battered and torne, and their bodyes bruised with rushing through the Shrubs and jumping down prœcipices, for they came right forward, thinking the shortest way was best. Four of the poor Seamen were taken—two of the Mary and Martha’s men, one of the Levant Merchant, and a fourth of the Tho. and Francis, whome they first had slightly wounded in the face, then they seised him and tyed his hands behind him, and left him with thre Rogues to guard him. These drove him before them, and because he often linger’d and offer’d to stop, they pricked him forward in the back, and wounded him in several places with their half pikes. The poor man was a very stout fellow and a good wrastler, and feeling the thing which bound his hands something loose, slipt his right hand out, and, with great courage and presence of mind, turn’d upon the Rogues, who were uselesse, and thought they had him safe. With this advantage, he ran the first quite over, and struck up the heels of the second; the third (who was a little behind the other) made a blow at him with his Cimitar, which he saved from his head with his lefte arme, and lay’d hold of the weapon with his right hand. The Rogue, drawing it a little back, cut the poor fellow’s hand badly. Yet this saved him from a second stroke, for he being something under the Rogue, he struck him up hand and foot, and before the other two could come at him, away he came. The great concerne which he had for his dear life and dearer liberty added something more then natural vigour to his leggs, and as much lightnesse to his heels. At last he got to us, and told us all that had past. There were, in another place, two of our seamen (one the native Greek) who made a very soldjere-like retreat. As they straggled from us, they kept together, and, out of a thicket, up start five or six Maniotes, and made towards them. They, standing together, presented their Muskets (resolving not to fire but to good purpose, and therefore not till they were very near). Down the Rogues dropt again. The Seamen retreated; they again follow’d. The Seamen presented again, and they again squatted down. Our Greek at last spoke to them, and told them to keep of in their own language; at which they stopt, and so these two retired leasurely and safely to us. After some debate what we ought to do, we all in a body were marching up the mountain to rescue our men; but Captain Wild, being all this while on board, and observing all which had happened, thought we were not strong enough; and, therefore, firing a great shot over us, call’d us back; and sometime after came all his soldiers on shore well armed; and then Mr. Day (his Lieutenant), a brave stout man, marshall’d us all, and put us in order: and away he led us up the mountain. But when we arrived, we saw we were come too late; for all the Rogues had crost the water in their bootes, and were just landing on the Main, and with our glasses we could discover our poor Captives amongst them, bound. The Lieutenant was earnest for bringing our boates about and going to them, for they appear’d in all much short of a hundred men. Our Captaines, though all brave men, were utterly against that, for being, by their Charter-party, bound to ply their Voyage, they could not tell how they could answer such an adventure, for we knew not what event our landing on the main land in a Hostile manner might produce, so some of them came back presently; but the Lieutenant and the rest rambled all over the Island, where they saw not one man left, nor found so much as one house. Here and there were Coves, in which they found some tatter’d cloths, and a few poor utensils; as likewise a sack of meal, and good store of onions and such-like very mean booty. I hardly believe that this Maniotes do ever bring any cattle hither (though our honest Sinon told us they did), or, at least, they feed them on the other side the Mountain, and not in view, for fear of African or other Pirates, who would sweep them of. They onely come here to till the ground and reape the corne, and now and then to make such Ambuscades as these; and very slender provisions will serve them upon these occasions. Some of our men, as they march’t, found some Hats, swords, pistols, and such like (it seems uselesse) baggage, which our first Myrmidons had discreetly scattered in their retreat. At last all came down, and we went on board, much lamenting our sad misfortunes, and all concluded that if we had proceeded on at our first march, and not staid for Captain Wild’s souldiers, we had certainly rescued our men, and perhaps sufficiently chastised those Sons of Belial. After some little conference with all the Captaines, we joyntly agreed to contribute to their ransome, and everyone setting down their good will, we had that night subscribed about 1,500 dollars, the poorest seaman giving one. Next morning the Admiral sent out his boat, and we went in ours with white flags of Truce round the Island, but not one man appeared to treat with us, or to take the least notice of us. Wherefore the money was collected and deposited in the Consul’s hands at Smyrna, and, about two yeares after, the poor slaves were found in the galleys and redeemed, though they proved most ungrateful wretches, for I heard that when they got into England they offered to sue their Captains for their wages, which they pretended was due to them for all that time.