Life and Adventure in the South Pacific

by John D. Jones

As soon as the anchor was down we were visited by the harbor-master, accompanied by the seamen’s chaplain, Rev. Mr. Bishop. After the former had transacted his business, the latter addressed to us some very excellent remarks, distributed several copies of the “Seamen’s Friend,” and concluded by cordially inviting all to come and see him; also to attend Bethel on the Sabbath. The “Seamen’s Friend” is a sheet published at Honolulu, Wauhoo, by Father Damon, as he is familiarly called, and is devoted to the spiritual and temporal good of the sailor.

The town of Lahaina (pronounced Lahena) is beautifully situated on the level land skirting the sea, and extends along the shore a distance of two miles. Back from the shore it reaches to the foot of the mountains, thus lying hemmed in, as it were, by the sea in front and the mountains in the rear. The streets are lined with beautiful shade-trees on either side, which, in the hot weather, afford a cool and delicious retreat. The reef extends the whole length of the town, about forty rods from shore, and, but for a small opening or break in it, boats would be unable to land. In times of a southerly gale the breakers extend across this passage, and then it is extremely difficult and dangerous to go through. Many seamen have lost their lives in attempting to go through the passage at such times.

Immediately in front of the landing is a large fort, built of coral rock, yet not very formidable in its appearance. The black guns which peer over the dingy walls are of small calibre, and not capable of doing much execution. The site is a most excellent one, as the whole shipping lies within its range. It is guarded by a portion of the Hawaiian army, who look malicious enough, though not much like militia. They have very little of the air and appearance of soldiers.

The main or principal street runs nearly east and west, and on it are situated the public stores, and most of the residences of the foreign population. We found, also, a large and commodious hotel on the north side of this street, the front commanding a view of the shipping, and the sides and back surrounded by a beautiful grove, altogether one of the most beautiful and lovely spots imaginable. This hotel is frequented by captains and officers of the various ships in port.

On the first street in the rear of the one above mentioned stands a native church. It is under the direction of American missionaries. Rambling about in search of something new, we accidentally came to a “Seamen’s Reading-room,” in the basement of the Bethel Church. Here we found late papers from all parts of the Union, and were soon lost to every thing but them. As evening drew nigh, it warned us that we must depart, but with more of a home feeling than we had experienced for years. This reading-room is supported by voluntary contributions from seamen visiting Lahaina, and is under the direction and charge of Rev. Mr. Bishop, its founder. It is open from 8 A.M. to 5 P.M., and is situated in a delightfully cool and shady spot. It forms an excellent retreat from the scorching rays of the sun, and too much praise can not be awarded to Mr. B. for his kindness and liberality in establishing so useful and pleasant a place of resort for the sailor to pass his hours in instructive reading.

The form of government of the Sandwich Islands is too well known to need even a passing notice here. The king resides at Honolulu, which is the capital of the kingdom, but he has a palace in the eastern portion of this village, which is his residence while on this island, attending to matters of government. It is a large stone building, two stories, with a piazza at either end. It resembled a prison, we thought, more than a palace.

It is well known that the missionaries of the cross have been the humble instruments in the hands of God of doing much good at these islands. We were informed that nearly all the natives of influence throughout the kingdom had united with the Church of Christ, and were earnest in their efforts to promote the happiness and prosperity of the whole population. Yet many of them (the lower classes) cling to the superstitions of their ancestors, and, so long as they do, they must remain rude and ignorant. The climate appears to agree with foreign residents remarkably well. Although situated within the tropics, the northeast trade-winds, which almost constantly blow here, cool the atmosphere, and make it exceedingly genial and pleasant. Being situated nearly in the centre of the North Pacific, the temperature of the atmosphere is very regular, seldom varying more than five degrees for months; and we were informed by an old resident that he had not known the thermometer to vary ten degrees in years. It generally is about eighty in the shade.

Back from the village, upon a fine eminence, is a missionary settlement, called Lahainaluna, with schools for the education of the young. It is a beautiful location. In front may be seen the village of Lahaina and the shipping, with the island of Molokai in the distance; to the right, Wauhoo and Ranai present themselves to the eye of the beholder; on the left, Tahoorowa; and on a clear day the volcanic heights of Mount Roa, on the island of Owyhee, loom up in the far-off sky like a huge bank of black clouds threatening a tempest. Fresh breezes sweep down the gulleys of the mountains, laden with the perfumes of the orange, the banana, pine-apple, and mountain apple trees; the beautiful grounds laid out with taste: all these combined render Lahainaluna what its native name indicates—the Lovely Mountain Home.

The principal authority on the island of Maui (pronounced Mowee) is vested in a governor. He is assisted, however, by petty chiefs, or captains, who hold their office by his appointment. Subordinate to these are the kikos, or Kanaka policemen, who patrol the streets day and night. They are hated and despised by natives and foreigners, and frequently take advantage of Jack Tar by allowing him to do as he pleases for a time, and then, for some trifling breach of the laws, arresting him, and taking him to the calaboose or lock-up.

Seamen are obliged to be clear of the beach at drum-beat—eight o’clock in the evening. No person is allowed to remain on shore over night, unless furnished with a proper pass by the captain of the port; and any one found on the beach, or in the town, with no pass, after the proper time, is marched to the calaboose, where he is kept in confinement till morning, and then mulcted in a pretty round sum for breaking the laws. This is generally paid by the captain, and afterward, with pretty good interest, deducted from Jack’s pay.