The ponderous anchor was soon raised from its coral bed and snugly stowed away upon the bows; all sail was set, and we gladly left the anchorage of Lahaina with strong northeast trades. We shaped our course west-northwest for the island of Atoowi. The following day we passed to the southward of Wauhoo, which was plainly in sight, and “stood off and on” Atoowi. We procured several boat-loads of sweet potatoes, yams, and other recruits, and then shaped our course for the Society Islands. About an hour after leaving Atoowi a stranger made his appearance on deck. This took the captain rather by surprise, and he inquired of him “who he was and whence he came.” The man replied that “he belonged to the ‘——,’ and did not wish to try another season in the Arctic, and did want to get home; was willing to work his passage, and hoped the captain would allow him to go home in the ship.” After giving him a long lecture upon the evils of desertion, the old man consented that he should remain, and he went forward with a happy heart.
On Friday, November 11th, we spoke the “Uncas,” of New Bedford, Captain James, like ourselves, bound home. We had a very pleasant “gam” with them, talking of the pleasures we were to enjoy, and anticipating with them great happiness. Our captain threw down the gauntlet to Captain J. for a race to New Bedford, which he gallantly accepted, and, we must confess, as gallantly won.
Nothing of great interest to us occurred, except crossing the equator for the last time in the Pacific, until we reached the Societies. We felt, at the time we crossed the line, that another goal was reached and passed—that another “milestone” in our journey was gone by. We sighted the island of Whytootucke, one of the Society Islands, on Friday, December 9th. We passed it, and on the following day raised Roratongo, distant fifty miles. Language is inadequate to describe the feeling of our Kanakas at once more seeing “my land,” as they called it. They were half frantic with joy. But when boat-loads of the natives came off to us the next day (having “beat” up to the island during the night), and they found their own relatives among them, we actually thought they would become crazy. We can not describe the scene. We can only give the reader an idea of their mode of salutation, which is to grasp each other by the right hand, place the other over the back, and rub noses very affectionately! With all our pathetic feeling, we could but laugh at the ludicrous method. But this meeting almost brought tears to our eyes as we thought of those whom we soon hoped to meet.
On Monday, December 12th, the boats went ashore to bring off fruit. Wishing to have one more run on one of “the Pacific Isles,” we jumped into one of the boats, and were soon on shore. On inquiry, we learned that the missionary who was there at our former visit had been recalled, and that Rev. Mr. Buyacott, from England, who had been stationed there many years before, was again among them. The natives appeared greatly attached to him; and we must relate a simple incident of this attachment. They had received information of his coming, and when the boat arrived which brought him from the ship to the shore, it was instantly seized by the natives ere he had time to land, and triumphantly borne, with great rejoicings, upon their shoulders to the market-place, where he was received by the authorities and his old friends with a warmth of feeling that bespoke how universally he was beloved, and how rejoiced all were to see him returned to them again.
They had lately erected a fine church edifice under his supervision, which was certainly a credit to him as an architect, and to the islanders. Great preparations were making for its dedication, which was to take place in a few weeks. Under his care and example, the natives appeared cheerful and happy; their little farms well tilled, and themselves well dressed, neat, and contented. All united in saying that Mr. Buyacott was a most excellent man; and the interest he manifested in them, both temporally and spiritually, went far to prove it. Under his supervision we found a printing-office in operation, where tracts, papers, and hymns were printed in the native language, and distributed, not only in Roratongo, but in every island of the group. We found also blacksmiths, carpenters, shoemakers, and nearly all kinds of mechanics, who had received their knowledge from him. His residence was a fine stone house of two stories, situated on a gentle rise of ground, surrounded by a beautiful yard interspersed with shrubbery and flowers. A fine graveled walk led from the gate to the house. We found it a cool, shady retreat, refreshed by the sea-breeze, and shaded by beautiful orange groves.
But it was time for us to leave all this beauty of nature behind, and plow our way homeward. We discharged all our Kanakas save one, who wished to remain in the ship and go to America. On asking him what particular reason he had for wishing to see “’Merick,” as he termed it, he replied, “I like see all; and get my sister three fathom (six yards) red ribbon!” We thought him going a long distance for “three fathom red ribbon,” but, as he said “plenty time,” we gave up the argument.
We here shipped three white men who were anxious to go to America, and, having loaded the old ship with tropical fruit for the last time, we bade our Kanaka friends adieu, and were soon on our way home again, steering to the southward for a westerly wind that would send us to the coast.
On Friday, December 16th, we commenced our preparations for doubling the Cape. First, we gave the old ship a new suit of sails throughout, from flying jib to spanker, good and strong ones, that would stand many a heavy storm. Anchors were taken in on deck; also the bow and waist boats, and every thing made snug generally. This was rendered necessary also from the fact that we had commenced leaking so much as to require pumping every four hours; and, these precautions taken, we knew that she would not strain so much in heavy weather.
Sunday, December 25th, was Christmas with us as well as with those at home. And, although we had no visits from Santa Claus, we felt very happy, and knew that when another Christmas-day came round, if living, we should be enjoying it with loved ones at home. The best on board ship was served up for dinner, and all hands enjoyed it with a keen relish, sharpened by the anticipation of the good things yet to come. We were now about eighty degrees to the westward, and twenty to the northward of Cape Horn.
From this time until Tuesday, January 24th, we bowled it along merrily with a southwest wind, every thing set that would draw, and every hour lessening the distance between us and the Cape. On that day the gale increased to almost a hurricane, and hauled to the west. We were “scudding” before it, with close-reefed topsails, a heavy sea running, and threatening to ingulf us every moment. The wind increasing and sea still rising, it was deemed prudent to “heave-to.” This was a dangerous proceeding in such a gale, but, with careful management at the helm, it could be done. All hands were called, and placed at their stations. The second and third officers took the helm, the men stationed at the braces, and the ship’s head slowly brought to the wind. She gallantly came up; but a wave—an avalanche of water—struck her on the quarter, dashed in on deck, sweeping every thing before it. “Hold on for your lives!” was the cry from the captain’s lips, and each man grasped the rigging, expecting every moment to be swept overboard. It was a fearful moment. The brave men at the helm were up to their waists in water, but bravely they clung to the wheel, knowing that if they left it death and destruction awaited us all. The body of water on deck was immense, being filled to the rail; and as the noble old ship would roll fearfully from side to side, it would seem as if she never would recover herself. By dint of great exertion, boards were knocked off the bulwarks, and the water began to pour out. This rendered her laboring more easy, and she was soon “luffed-to,” and rode comparatively easy. We all breathed more freely when this was done, and felt that we had had a narrow escape.