Friday, Jan. 22.—Therm. 51°. El Hájí came to take me to Kaid Jelábí Ben Boaza, governor of the Meshwá. There was little the matter with him, except that he felt cold in some parts of his body and had bad eyes. His wife was in a very indifferent state of health. I promised to make up some medicines, and received a present of twenty fowls. Patients are increasing till I am ill myself. Went to the Millah and found more people ill, and so am I. On my return home, I was ordered to attend the minister this evening, but stated I could not do so, and went to my carpet very unwell.
Saturday, Jan. 23.—Therm. 50°. Tried hard to write a few lines, but found it impossible to do so. Passed a very bad night, and was obliged to send away all my patients. Kept my carpet till two P.M. Went to the Jewry to dine with the British agent; found all my patients worse. Had a visit from Múláï Hijází, the court jester, who is the second person in the empire; but I make no presents, and he gives no help without them. Our dinner was a curiosity. A Jew must not light a fire from Friday evening to Saturday evening; hence their whole food for the Sabbath is put upon the fire and kept there for twenty-four hours, a large quantity of fuel having been previously placed there for that purpose. The dinner is rather curious than palateable. On my return home received a message to go to Sídí Mohammed Ben Alí, where I had tea, &c., and was questioned for two hours on medical points, with the view of making a physician of him. I quite tired out the Moorish doctor, whose materia medica was a certificate,[49] that Abú, had he been quick, might have copied out; but he has become slower and slower. It took the Moorish doctor half an hour to learn how to take two pills every other night. My hypochondriac patient worries me to death, and I shall make an excuse and get away, if possible, next week. I mean to go to the Kaïseríyah (bazar) to-morrow, and shall afterwards lose no time in asking permission to depart. I fear I have little chance of getting on by this route; but I will bring matters to a crisis speedily.
Sunday, Jan. 24.—Therm. 47°. It feels rather cold. Patients out of number; I was called out of bed to attend three: continued actively engaged till half-past eleven P.M., when I began to sink, and was obliged to order the door to be shut. Visited the Kaïseríyah; a very poor thing: was sadly disappointed with the city. The Sultán would hardly believe that I gave advice and medicine gratis. The people here are very insolent. Went home and read the Bible. Visited my patients in Jewry, where I found several new and bad cases. I fear I shall lose one patient to-night, as I cannot obtain permission for the gates of the Millah to be opened for me after dark. Returned home; but did not get my meal in peace. Cohen was sent for by the minister, who was surprised at my pieces of the Korán.[50] I mean to go to the Moorish part of the town no more; have a great quantity of work to do to-morrow.
Monday, Jan. 25.—Therm. 47°. Up at break of day to see my patients; kept hard at work till half-past eleven A.M. Got my breakfast, and had a visit from the minister. Went to see the Sultán’s father-in-law, and then to the Millah; was so tired, that I determined to give up all my patients. Cohen went in the evening to the minister.
Tuesday, Jan. 26.—Therm. 50°, and rising to 80° at noon. Up at day-break again. Heartily sick of medicine, and threaten to throw physic to the dogs and burn my chest. Received a message from the Sultán, requesting me to go and see his friend the Báshá Ben Ibráhím; found him with at least one hundred men; then to the Sultán’s barber and bed-maker. After these, a Kaid came with twenty people. He was the first person who wanted to pay me. Afterwards I saw much of the city, the tomb of Sídí Ben ’Abbás with its green roof and sides. The rats were crossing the road continually. The bashaw had fallen from his horse three months ago, when he received some bruises, for which he had been cupped and was covered with charms; but I think my physic will do more than all. He spat upon his arm and hand before I was allowed to touch him. Upon my making some inquiries as to the state of his bowels, he was completely at loss; nor could he understand what the stomach had to do with the pulse. I explained to him that there was the same connexion between the heart and other parts of the body, as there is between the root and branches of a tree, and between the spring and the works of a watch. I am to see him every day. I have been obliged to beg to be excused from waiting on the minister, as I am quite knocked up and ill.
Wednesday, Jan. 27.—Therm. 54°. Evident symptoms of a change of weather. I got up early to visit the bashaw; while I was out of the room, he told Cohen that I should be well paid if I cured him, and expressed no little surprise when he heard I would not take any thing. Returned home, and received another message from the Sultán, to go to see the Káid of Shragna. Feel very ill. I have now two great out-door patients, and at home I found such a crowd that I could hardly get into the house. Amongst the rest were four very finely-dressed Moorish women, one of whom would conceal nothing. I fear I cannot do much for them, and but little for the Jewesses, who came in shoals. My stock of medicines is diminishing fast. Went in the evening to the minister, by whom I was complimented highly. He had seen Grenade and his son, who had come to witness the art and mystery of compounding medicines. The minister told me I was to go when and where I pleased. He requested also to know whether I preferred riding on a mule or a horse, as his master wished to make me a present. I told him that I had always found a mule the most useful in my journey. I then offered to have the Physician’s Vade Mecum translated. He next asked me if I would settle at Marocco, and proposed my bringing my wife and family there; said that the Sultán would like me to remain for ten months; that I should go every where, see every thing, and that I might have two months to return to England. I replied that it was impossible for me to do so, as I was to be absent from England eighteen months, six of which had already elapsed, and the rest was to be devoted to further travelling. I then went to the Káïd of Magodor. He was pumping me; so I gave him some clear water and stopped him.[51] I find he is a bit of a diplomatist, and has been set on to worm out my design in coming here. He talked much of Mr. Willshire, so I must be on my guard.
Thursday, Jan. 28.—Therm. 54°. Up early to see my patients, all of whom are doing well. Have been obliged to order my doors to be closed. I cannot endure it any longer. I have not even time to take refreshment, and my head too is overworked. Went to see Ben Idris. There were four other persons there besides the minister; neither the conversation nor inquiries could be put with propriety on paper. My answers, however, were such as not to make them my friends. Heard again from Mr. Willshire. I have some suspicions of the Káïd of Mogador.
Friday, Jan. 29.—Therm. 57°. Up early to visit my patients. I have quite won the bashaw’s heart. I had this morning to examine all his ladies; Zara, Ayishah, Embrica, Henia, Mirima, Bettoula, Iemola, &c. &c. They were more pleased than I was. They were of all sizes, colours, and dresses. I was kept there two hours, and was nearly sick and somewhat excited. There were above two hundred of them. Went home and found there Káïd Músa; afterwards visited Káïd Abdallah, from whom I heard much of the high favour I was in with the Sultán. Went in the evening to see Káïd Jelábí, and on my return home found poor Abú very ill, with symptoms of dysentery.
Saturday, Jan. 30.—Therm. 55°. Went early to Káïd Abdallah, and thence to Káïd Músa, and then to El ’Arabí, while three persons carried the medicines. Returned home, and found a message from the palace. Dressed, and after a row with my Káïd, I went to the Meshwá, and was then summoned to the palace. Passing through court after court, I came into the presence of the Sultán, who was seated in an arm-chair in the blazing sun. Approaching respectfully, I tendered him my thanks for the kindness shewn to me. After making some inquires about me, he requested me to feel his pulse; and he then ordered his people to take me round his garden, after which I was called back, and found that all his ladies were to be gratified with a sight of us. During the promenade we met some slaves carrying dishes along the shady side of the garden, that had been sent from the Sultán; another with sweetmeats; others with flowers: and at the gate there was a fine gold-coloured horse, the Sultán’s present to myself, and a mule to take me home. Congratulations came thick upon me, while my Káïd was sadly in the dumps, to be at the palace to-morrow at ten A.M. I had no sooner reached home than fresh slaves were sent with fruits, and one with a china jar of dates, and an order for all the money that I had given away to be returned to me, and that if any one took money from me, his hand should be cut off, and if any one insulted me, his teeth should be drawn; and that I was to have one or a hundred soldiers, as I liked, and might go where I pleased.
Sunday, Jan. 31.—Therm. 54°. My patient, the Káïd, getting better, I went at ten P.M. to visit the Sultán, where I had to make a dose for his taster. Remained there some time, and left my bottle and one of my best handkerchiefs. Had my dinner sent home with me from the palace. Saw the chief eunuch and Jelábí: prescribed for both. Met with some patients, who nearly drove me mad. They have a strange idea that women can keep dead children in the womb for years. Went again to Káïd Jelábí, and heard the same disgusting application. The news of the fall of Tlemsin was brought in seven days, which was considered quite wonderful. A telegraph would have done it in seven minutes. I had scarcely finished reading the service, when I was driven almost mad by the music sent to do me honour, and which I was compelled to endure till past midnight. The Sheik of the Jews, and others, were however highly delighted, and the beasts will remain continuing the noise till morning. I took up a fellow who had insulted me; I believe they would have cut out his tongue had I persisted. Grovelling wretched curs, they come to kiss my knees. Oh! that I could get away. Never was I so sick of any place as this. I am literally worn out. I hear there are some letters for me, which have gone by this place. Sunday, alas! no day of rest to me, and the noise greater than on any other day.