Sunday, April 17.—Therm. 74°. Had hardly returned from my patient, when Hájí Majíibí arrived. I repaired immediately to the governor. All is now arranged for my departure to-morrow, at break of day: hard at work in packing up. Wrote my letters: dispatched Cohen and his boy: received a blessing in the synagogue yesterday, which cost four dollars. I have to part with most of my things, as I shall be allowed only two mules; the sharks are therefore looking out for what they can get. I am quite sick at heart at these Moors: poor ignorant creatures. I have just this moment learned that there is a town E. of Teródánt, called Tazelt, where there is a Christian church, in perfect preservation, well finished and painted, but shut up: it is held in some veneration by the natives, who can only look into it through the windows. There are also Christian villages in the neighbourhood of the church. Went down to Fontí; every thing works well; I am to start as a soldier, accompanying some mules: took leave of my patient, who is to go with me; but not a soul has an idea of this. Cohen is very anxious to go on. I have, at his own request, given him a letter to Lord Glenelg: have packed up every thing: am in a great bustle. I fear, however, there will be some detention to-morrow. I suspect the courier has been stopped, as no escort was visible at sun-set. Laid down to rest, but with no chance of sleeping, as I am to be up at the earliest dawn, to start, if possible, to-morrow.
Monday, April 18.—Therm. 70°. Up at four A.M., but did not get away till seven. I was accompanied as far as the river by the governor, and four soldiers, Hájí Ibráhím, and our own party; in all sixteen souls. At half-past eight we came to the boundary of the district, where a prayer was offered up for the Sultán; after which, the governor and his party returned. In defiance of all I said about Hájí Ibráhím’s state of health, he would go on, or rather his tribe compelled him, to his own house, distant a ride of four hours. Here we stopped, and had kuskusú and barley-cakes with butter, and some leben (sour milk). Ibráhím was, indeed, in a sad state of health.[90] I gave him the medicines I thought best. The perfect indifference shewn by Hájí Majíbí towards a fellow-creature quite disgusted me. Had my horse shod, and proceeded S. to Stúka, attended by a strange semi-devil from the Hájí (Ibráhím), who told me that I need be under no alarm, as he could bring one hundred horse into the field, and had promised to protect me. Crossed the Sús river, which is here a considerable stream, although twenty miles from the sea. We arrived at a little before six P.M., at the house of Sheïkh Hamed, who is a fine young man: he and the people of his town were all out at prayers. The country is fine, with large plantations of figs and almonds. During the time that our food was preparing, I was amused with some good ball-firing, the party standing on one leg or lying down: they are a merry people. We commenced with bread and butter and honey; then came kuskusú; then tea till midnight. Abú here received from one of his countrymen some account of his friends. The pocket-handkerchief is used for the towel generally, and the corner of the mat lifted up for wiping the nose: the belching is quite beastly. Passed but a bad night.
Tuesday, April 19.—Therm. 72°. Up at four A.M. and got off at six. Just before starting, I had the place half-full of patients. I had been bored to death the night before with questions. One man was brought to me with a ball in his foot; and by way of assisting me to cure him, the gun was brought from which the ball had been discharged. Accompanied by the brother of the Sheïkh and four of his people, and Hájí Ibráhím’s semi-devil, we reached the Mésah, a finer river here than at Sús. Its course was S.S.W. We rode along its banks through a fine and populous district, called Assa, and crossed it at the great Sók (Tlátah.) Here we met the Sheïkh of ’Akúlí, with twenty horsemen. Our party stopped; it was a trying moment for me: the two parties held a council, and after some ten minutes, the muhabbah-bik[91] (welcome) was pronounced. Here Hájí Ibráhím’s semi-devil was sent back, and one of the other party took his place, and conducted us to the house of Sheïkh ’Alí at Tamasert, in the populous district of ’Akúlí, from which the sea is distant about a half mile. The people here are said to be very bad characters, and their looks confirm the tale. We had tea and kuskusú. The Sheïkh was ill, and I was required to cure him, and a dozen others; but I pretended to be unwell, and with this view I went without food, for the second day. Some of Abú’s countrymen came to play and sing to him; and thus kept me awake till midnight: afterwards the vermin, which were a worse plague than last night, prevented me from sleeping.
Wednesday, April 20.—Therm. 70°. Heavy rain. Up at five A.M. After eating and drinking, the people took me out to find a spring; they had water enough, and so I pretended to point out the spot where they are to dig. We got off at nine, accompanied by Sheïkh ’Alí. Owing to the rain, we travelled very slowly. I fear that I have had to pay dear for passing this place. We arrived at the residence of a great saint. This humbug has the power of taking me any where through Sús. I bought him for dollars. At this point the Sheïkh left us to return home. The country is completely cultivated: it is backed by four regular rows of limestone-hills, which serve as a kind of embankment against the desert. They are now cutting the corn, which produces more than one hundred fold, most of the seeds throwing out four stems, and some five. I am not over-pleased with my conductor, Hájí Majíbí, who, I see plainly, is making a job out of my journey. We passed the tomb of a great saint, El Ab, where all the party, but the Káfri (myself) offered up their prayers. We then entered a pass, which required some hard climbing. My horse became so lame, that I was compelled to walk the rest of the journey, a distance of three hours; when we reached the residence of another great saint. Here they have to prepare a room for myself, as I cannot be permitted to enter his apartment. My grumbling to-day has been of service. I have some Tumbucktú quilts laid over my carpet to serve for a bed. Received some barley-cakes and honey, but could not eat them; afterwards butter and honey, and leben (sour milk); but it will not do: a biscuit is the only food I have taken this day, although I have fasted for three. The Moors, and Hájí Majíbí amongst them, who had taken some refuse kuskusú from some labourers on the road, were eating and drinking till midnight. Not being allowed to enter the room of the saint, I was put into the garden, until one was prepared. This is the district of Eit Bamáram. The water is here both bad and scarce.
Thursday, April 21.—Therm. 74°. Weather muggy, with much rain. I had been promised that I should reach Wád Nún to-day; but after travelling two hours, having waited till past nine for the Moors to eat three times, we met a courier from Wád Nún, and we were then taken out of our road to a house, where we are to stop all day. This, I am convinced, is owing to Hájí Majíbí not having sent word in proper time. I am most grievously disappointed, but must bear it as well as I can; the day hangs very heavy on my hands. A lot of these beasts came as usual for physic; called me káfrí, and all the rest of it, but could get nothing to eat. I would not advise any other traveller to come through Sús: they ask for every thing, but will neither give, nor even shew any thing. They affect much on the score of religion; never going in or out, sitting up or standing, without the Bismillah. At eight P.M. got four eggs, and had some biscuit. I received a message from the Sheïkh, stating that we are to arrive to-morrow. This place is Tisseret, famed for its copper mines.
Friday, April 22.—Up at four, A.M., or rather up all night. Vermin in myriads. Hurried away; and after one hour’s march, stopped for two more to eat. At length we reached Ifran Ochran, the last town in Eit Bamáram. Passed the range of mountains in Lower Sús, and entered Wád Nún. During the route, saw people reaping corn, with arms by their side. Wád Nún is a large town, with several small clusters of buildings: it derives its name[92] from a Portuguese Queen, Núnah. Hence Wád Nún is the valley of Núnah: the place is distant from the sea a journey of five or six hours. Our first halt was on the banks of a magnificent stream of water. When we came to the spring (Agusa), we washed and drank, while the people prayed. A fine line of hills protects it from the Sahra. We found here the Sheïkh waiting for us, who took us at once into his house: at half-past five he gave us a good dinner, which set me all right. I am much pleased with him. After tea, all the great folks of the place came to see me: as soon as he had read the Sultán’s letter, he sent for Hájí Majíbí: when he came back at nine, he said he wanted three double-barrelled guns, silver-mounted, and the barrels damascened in gold, together with an air-gun; to which I am to add my brace of pistols. I talked over all the wonders of England, and then wrote to Mr. Willshire to tell him what I had done. The Sheïkh assures me, he will send me without the least danger. I like him much: he has a large and fine family. I have brought him a handsome present, and I fear he expects that I shall return this way back: but this is not in the bond. Abú is very helpless. Here one begins to see slavery again: the house swarms with slaves, who form a large item of property. This Berúk is a person of great wealth: he possesses forty thousand head of cattle, and has never less than one thousand camels, working between here and Súdán. His eldest son is a fine young man. Went to bed at midnight, quite done up.
Saturday, April 23.—Therm. 76°. Symptoms of heat. Had my sour milk, and then unpacked my things. The Sheïkh highly amused with the pillow, and the little globe firing the guns: he was smoking and laughing alternately. All goes on well. I was kept up to write my letters, and they are not yet sent off: these people are so very dilatory, where they are not immediately interested. Patients are beginning to come in. The fellows, who were so free on the road, have come a little to their senses. Lots of patients, and amongst them a man, who had been wounded sadly. Had the whole of the Sheïkh’s family with me: gave each of his little children a bracelet. In the afternoon walked about and round the town: went to the Abú Sebah’s tents; from thence to the garden, where I saw a fine crop of apples: saw likewise several heïries, both of dromedaries and horses. As the Sheïkh’s cattle were coming in, I perceived that what looked like a river, was a very small stream of water: it is the Assaka. The view from the heights is rather pretty over fields of tobacco and plantations of date-trees; here and there a garden, and many fine wells: saw a part of my companions, who are to be fasting to-day, but we hope we shall have some supper, although I am sick at the sight of my sable attendants, who have the itch very bad. I shall have to remain here at least three weeks, although I should be glad to shorten the time.
Sunday, April 24.—Therm. 76°. I was kept up till midnight grinding a small barrel-organ; and fainting with hunger, I took at last to the kuskusú, and got some sleep. This morning my patients have increased, so that I am obliged to say “hold.” Here the people are really ill; but so stupid or stubborn, that it is impossible to do them any good. Gorged to their throats, they sleep half their time away, and then wonder they are ill. The houses here are better than any in Marocco, and look like casts[93] in plaster, being built piece by piece in moulds. These people have no idea of taking a draught, and they sip the most nauseous medicines. As soon as all are asleep, I take the opportunity of writing up the journal, and reading the prayers. This is Sók-day, and no little bustle. I do not feel very well, the heat is so excessive. We had a capital supper of meat, mixed with grapes and butter; a strange mixture, but a good dish. A man, who has got a gold mine here, has come to ask me about it. Great doings may be expected here to-morrow, as I have given to twenty persons strong doses of medicine. But they are such fools.
Monday, April 25.—Therm. 70°. Very close; heavy dew through the night, during which I was called up twice to visit patients, some of whom are very ill; but I am expected to cure them by merely looking at them; a most disheartening business. Up early and went to the garden; returned home, and visited patients. All my cigars are gone, and I am now manufacturing a pipe. Have the prospect of being here a month; but I must bear it all, as I am quite in the power of these people. Walked round the town, which is a large one: went to the millah; looked about for springs. Am sadly bored. They will not give me a moment’s rest.
Tuesday, April 26.—Therm. 76°. Very hot, and towards mid-day the sun was oppressive beyond description. Had a strange request from Hájí Majíbí, whom I hate: he had the impudence to ask me for one of my gold watches, although he knows they are worth here five hundred dollars. I shall put him in the hands of Mr. Willshire, to whom I shall write strongly on the whole subject. The Sheïkh had a conversation with Abú and myself this evening, and promised us every thing we could desire; he assured me that he both could and would protect us. I felt quite satisfied with this: but later in the evening, that scoundrel, Majíbí, came and started difficulties; that there was danger here, and much to be arranged there: he was not aware of the conversation I had had with the Sheïkh. I was sadly annoyed, and determined to give him a set-down in the morning.