Wednesday, May 4.—Therm. 60°. Weather warmer; but I still feel the cold: went only to the gardens. A part of the káfilah is just arrived; it made its journey in haste: it brings accounts of a war between the Fellátahs and Bambári. This will make it rather awkward for me, should hostilities continue, although I do not pass in the immediate vicinity of the people of Bambári.
Thursday, May 5.—Therm. 60°. Suffering from a severe cold to-day, did not go out.
Friday, May 6.—Therm. 68°. It got very warm towards noon. I have now been a fortnight here, and with every prospect of being detained a month longer. I am bored to death by the people, of whom the more I see the worse I like them. Had a visit from Sheïkh ’Ali, and a part of his tribe: I was obliged to be civil, lest I should have to return to Suweïrah; as in that case he would protect me. Health but indifferent, as I can get no peace or quiet from the importunities of the people here. Three persons have just come sixty miles to ask me to tell them where the silver is to be found, that they know is in great plenty about Tamenart. The old mines are not worked; but the nokrah is in the field (ground). I told them it was impossible to give an answer without visiting the spot, or seeing some of the stones from it. If I am to stop to make them all rich, Heaven knows when I shall come back. As I have the character of a magician, every dirty devil in and about the place claims a prescriptive right to the entré, and the beasts come loaded with vermin. Took a short walk, and retired to rest.
Saturday, May 7.—Therm. 70°. Weather beautiful. Feeling myself much better, I strolled to the water, which is not a river, but a kind of lake. Met with rhododendrons in full flower, and saw a great variety of odoriferous shrubs, with an abundance of tortoises. I was followed by one of the Sherí beggars for money. A nephew of the Sultán has got off under[96] .........[97] order. The river Assaka is to the south of the mountains that enclose Wád Nún; but I can gain no information about it. Sick at heart with my evening parties, which occur quotidie (daily). Received letters from Mr. Willshire. It is lucky that we are here: we have done the big wigs.
Sunday, May 8.—Therm. 70°. Weather is becoming quite warm; was up early, and read the prayers: sent Abú to the Sók, and tried to purchase a dagger, but it was too dear. The Sheïkh’s son bought one at night, but it was not equal to the one I had seen. Found a document relating to the Auléd Deleim, one of the Arab tribes: took a walk with Sheïkh Ali, whose people returned to a sheep-killing, &c. I have no chance of sleeping, as they are to leave at day-break.
Monday, May 9.—Therm. 72°. Weather beautiful. The camels are collecting for the Sók: the best will not fetch more than thirty mitcals, and good ones are to be bought for twenty. This animal changes its name every year for the first nine years; but after that time, it is the jemál. In the first year, and while suckling, it is el howar; in the second, el ben áshar; in the third, el bellibún; in the fourth, el hak; in the fifth, el zoa; in the sixth, el thání; in the seventh, el erba’; in the eighth, el siasí; and in the ninth, el jemál: the female is called nákah: it has been known to work for thirty years; after which they are turned out. The Heïri horse does not cost more than from sixty to one hundred dollars. All kinds of cattle and food are cheap to a fault. With regard to their buildings, the rooms are long and narrow, but without windows, as the doors answer for that purpose; and there they keep their guns, swords, saddles, powder-horns, &c. Driven out of the room by vermin. At four, A.M., I commenced washing my clothes.[98] The Jewish gentleman was offended, that I did not pay him a visit on the Sabbath: after this, I helped to cut up the sheep, and set about preparing my own food; but as these people think I dislike what they cook for me, I ate a little by way of training, and I shall now have a daily dose of it. Abú gets more helpless daily. I fear he has become religiously crazy. Walked to the water, and then had a large party in the evening, which kept me up till midnight.
Tuesday, May 10.—Therm. 76°. The heat is returning again; very sultry at noon. Saw the Sheïkh’s three wives, and his numerous family of sons and daughters; they were more pleased with me than I with them; there were two pretty girls amongst them, but very dirty: the Sheïkh’s forty slaves, and all the family, were out to see one of the ladies off. Walked round the whole place, which is larger than I thought: ascended a hill that commands all the approaches to the town; it formerly had a fort upon it, and should have it now. On the east of the town there is a large enclosure, surrounded with walls, where the great Sók is held. There are twenty large public ovens for cooking meat and bread; ten smaller ones for fritters, made of honey and butter; and some for sphynge and kuskusú, and many matmórs for corn; and a good supply of water.
All are in expectation of this great day, or rather of these three days. Sidi Hasan, and all the people from the neighbourhood, will be here. Beyond the enclosure is a very neat tomb of the Sheïkh’s predecessor, from which there is a good view of the country. On the plain are many scattered villages, and four extraordinary hills, distant from each other about one thousand yards. By the last is meant the mountains which shut in a part of Wád Nún: in the back ground is a fine range of hills, about one thousand feet high. I am now in my third week here, with every chance of detention for three or four weeks longer. I got rid of my evening party by pretending to be ill.
Wednesday, May 11.—Therm. 76°. Weather most favourable for acclimatizing me for the Sahrá. Went to the house of ’Omar to see Banna; had two ladies to examine. There was too great fastidiousness on the part of some, and too little on the part of others: from this I went to the Millah. My pretty patient is better to-day, but is very stupid, as they all are: the Jewesses bear away the palm of beauty; and dirty as they proverbially are, they are cleanliness itself, as compared with the Arab ladies, whose filth, dirt, and misery, are dreadful. A consul lives here, which is quite absurd. Received many blessings. Had some disturbance about my horse: the people are beginning to find fault, and my food is falling off; nor do they give the same hearty welcome as formerly: the fact is, one must be always giving to get on with these people. I took to my haik, and like it much better than the sulham. I am nearly devoured by flies by day, and fleas by night. Am pleased more and more with Hájí El Khirefí, who is to take us, I hear, to Súdán, where he has been twenty times. My evening party was much better behaved than usual.
Thursday, May 12.—Therm. 75°. Went to breakfast with Solomon the Jew, whose wife is making up my shirts, and mother washing my clothes; but such is the fashion of the place. Went some distance up the bed of the river, which is now quite dry. Nothing is talked of but Sidi El Rásí and the Moutardi, or the forthcoming great Sók. Food is very bad, and the meat stinking. Saw a beautiful gun that was made here; the Sheïkh promises to get me one[99] before I go. Some rain fell before noon, and it became quite cold, as evening came on. To-day I had many more lady-patients, as Abú calls them; their complaints are curious. One is to be fattened up to thrice her present size. Several wish to know how they are to become mothers: many want me to give them the powder which Christians have to make people love them. Eyes to be cured out of number; and as they are far too many for me to attend to all, I have selected two, who are very ill, and whom I think I can cure, and I have put the rest away as incurable. Rain has fallen all round, but has not yet reached here. The husband of the pretty Jewess has sent to say, that he shall feel hurt, if I do not breakfast with him, as I had breakfasted with Solomon. I promised to go to-morrow.