Monday, May 23.—Therm. 72°. The heat is increasing. Parties are arriving from all quarters for the Sók. News was brought this day, that the káfilah had been attacked by the tribe of Erdebát. The people of Tagakánth went out against them, and have taken from them one thousand camels, five hundred horses, thirty slaves, and all their arms, and have driven them towards the sea: this will make the káfilah one day later in its arrival here. Took my walk towards Agadír, and went afterwards to the Arab tents. Felt not very well. Am anxiously looking for the káfilah from Mogadór, which ought to have been here to-day, and is now looked for shortly after sun-set to-morrow.
Tuesday, May 24.—Therm. 76°. Weather melting towards the middle of the day. Went to look at the preparations: they are well arranged, and upon a large scale. The Sók are our fairs; the road exhibits one line of camels, horses, mules, and donkeys, the Sheïkhs vying with each other in the number of their attendants. The bulk of the Súdán caravan is not yet arrived, but expected at day-break. All here are very civil to the Súdán people; and all are anxious for me to go on. The Moors are just as jealous of hearing the name of Súdán mentioned. I sat on the ground, first with one party, and then with another, and heard from both the same story about their gold and silver mines: the brass, they talk of here, is iron pyrites and copper pyrites. I have received many invitations. The slaughter of cattle for to-morrow is immense: we have five sheep killed for the consumption of one day at this house; the public kitchen is all busied in preparing kuskusú and other eatables. The noise is beyond every thing I ever heard; nor must I expect any rest for the next three days and nights: the thing is really worth seeing. Of the whole mass of people collected together, I am the only individual not personally interested in it.
Wednesday, May 25.—Therm. 76°. The great gathering for the Sók still going on. I was kept up nearly the whole night by a strange creature from Dar’ah, whose wife had run away from him. He is convinced, from what he has heard, that I am a magician, and can give him a charm, that will not only bring the lady back, but will make her love him. Nothing I could say would persuade him to the contrary. I gave him one of my verses from the Koran, of which Abú wrote an explanation, and which I finished by ..................... and some figures; this he carried to the Sók, and I had lots of applicants: the man is perfectly satisfied, and says that he now cares little about buying or selling. The Sók is a scene highly interesting: here are to be seen tribes from all parts, and individuals from all places. The great káfilah from Súdán has not arrived, but yet there are above twenty thousand men and animals, and many more will be here by the opening. To-morrow ten sheep will be killed for this house, which is like a booth at a race; my own room not excepted. I have here thirty guns, ten of the best saddles and bridles, powder-flasks and bags out of number. Abú was employed for two hours in making tea for my visitors. Not the least chance of sleep: all are in good humour.
Thursday, May 26.—Therm. 72°. During the whole night the house has been like a bear-garden. My patience was quite exhausted by the number of patients. Went to the Sók; it was a curious sight; but finding that I took off the attention of the buyers too much, I was returning home, when I met the great Fakír Sídí Mohammed. The influence of this man is quite extraordinary: he took me to every stall through the mart for the camels and horses; then to the kitchens; the crowd that followed us was immense. I had been grossly insulted in the morning, and threatened to shoot a fellow; and had given tongue, as far as I could, to six others, when a man forced his way through the crowd, and after kissing the Fakír, and whispering something in his ear, I was immediately hurried home; when I was there, I was told that my life was in danger, and advised upon no account to stir out again to-day. I observed two or three ill-looking fellows, who, I believe, were only kept in check by the Fakír, who told me that many a hand was on the kummiyah.[103] So much for the great Sheïkh Beïrúk’s power. I will give him a pill to-night. The Sók is considered a poor one.
The káfilah from Súdán having been attacked, and driven out of its route, has not arrived. The people of Tagakánth are not here, and others, from ten other places, are absent; while the people of Erdebat dare not come. Had they all arrived, they would have made the Sók twice as large. I have made up my mind to be contented with what I have seen, and I shall not go out to-morrow. This is a poor return for the trouble I have been at amongst these people. I am sick at heart with them all. I have been most outrageously insulted this afternoon, and which has been repeated with interest. In the evening I wrote to Mr. Willshire, to tell him I must abandon the thing. I have also told Sheïkh Mohammed my mind pretty freely, and I shall wait till Saturday, and then take my steps one way or the other: bear the thing any longer I cannot. It was curious to see slaves dressed up, and placed amongst the goods. The Marabouts[104] were very numerous; one strange figure on horseback especially collected a good deal of money from the gazing fools.
Friday, May 27.—Therm. 78°. Kept my word as to going out; took some bread and tobacco, and went off to the bed of the river, where I found a snug hole, surrounded by Oleanders, into which I crept, and passed there three hours very pleasantly in reading five of the satires of Horace. Saw persons passing and repassing; came out, and reconnoitring, could easily perceive that they were looking for me; there were three sets on horseback, and four and five in pairs, on foot. As soon as all was clear, I crept away to the part they had left, and was nearly suffering from it: the sun was intensely hot; suffocation came on, the pulse rising to 140°, or scarcely perceptible. I had no lancet, or on recovery should have bled myself. As I found myself sinking, I became alarmed, and bent my way towards home: on my arrival I found the Sheïkh was in a great stew, and had sent persons in every direction to find and bring me back. I was very ill, and driven nearly mad. Abú makes so bad an interpreter, and is so fearful of speaking out, that I am in a sad position. Did not go near the Sók. I have determined to make an example of one or two, and that will make the rest quiet. Starved myself the whole of the day, and took some medicine.
Saturday, May 28.—Therm. 76°. Morning cloudy, and appearance of rain. Find all the people more on the alert this morning, except poor Abú, whom I have been scolding to get rid of a little of my own bad temper. Feel very poorly to-day, and shall adopt the starving system again. The Sók finished to-day at noon; and all the roads are now crowded with persons returning home. Upon the whole it has been a failure, as the káfilah from Súdán did not arrive, and many of the tribes kept away through the fear of the small-pox. Sídí Hasan, the great star, did not make his appearance; and his brother came with very little style. I have written very strongly to the Sheïkh, complaining of the treatment I have received, and have determined to go on or back; I care not which: no common stock of patience could alone bear what I have had to suffer. These are without exception the most strange and savage people I have yet seen; they are without government, laws, or honour, and with no trace of feeling, except on matters connected with money-making, eating and sleeping. Any man may, and often does, shoot another out of mere caprice. The only persons not exposed to the dread of this fate, are the Marábuts and Saints: the Sheïkh, rich and powerful as he is, dares not shut his door against the dirtiest beast who thinks proper to enter. The kuskusú or tea-pot is a general invitation, and any and all may come in and feed. The Sheïkh is sadly annoyed at my letter: and my carrying matters with so high a hand will do some good: much, however, as I grumble and threaten, I must bear all. To return is impossible, and the danger of getting again through Sús is worse than all that the desert can present. A party, as usual, to drink tea in my rooms. Abú is quite disgusted, and poor Mahmúd and Seïd are in tears: they are the only two persons in the place who have a grain of feeling.
Sunday, May 29.—Therm. 78°. Got up very ill, and in bad spirits, and worse humour; took physic again, as my head is very bad. In consequence of having so many patients, who are returning from the fair, I have taken my Bible and Prayer-book to the garden, and locked myself in, where I read the service, and afterwards got a good sleep, and returned home in the evening much better. Abú tells me that the Sheïkh is very uneasy that I am ill, and am so dissatisfied, and that my conduct has cut him to the quick. A large arrival from Súdán of ivory and gum: one fair is hardly over before another begins. The people of Súdán are better than those of Wád Nún: their haggard looks belie their feelings; all of them are my friends, and I only wish that they and we were moving southwards: I would give any thing to get away. A party again to tea.
Monday, May 30.—Therm. 72°. We have had a bad night; a violent wind from the N.W. has given us all the rheumatism and lumbago, which the people are working off. Preparations are making for the káfilah, which is to start to-morrow for Suweïrah: all the guests are, thank God, gone. During the time of feasting all our best crockery was brought out: the highest guests were served in a wash-hand basin, and a certain other utensil was considered one of the most useful pieces of ware, from its having a handle: they could scarcely believe me, when I told them its use in Europe, and that extravagance had led some people to have it made of silver. Abú told them that the King had one of gold. I was not so much astonished at its use here, as we had our wine out of the same kind of vase at the house of the British agent in Marocco. A Jew was brought up for theft. The Sheïkh at length tells me that he has written to Tagakánth; this has raised my spirits, and I feel better; have starved for three whole days. The whole place is so full of ivory, feathers, gum, and wool, that it is difficult to get about: the natives are much surprised that I am not preparing to go back: I have, indeed, a difficult game to play. Five hundred sheep and goats were slaughtered for the fair; and the quantity of kuskusú and other eatables was immense.
Tuesday, May 31.—Therm. 78°. A quiet day, and a day’s quiet is quite a rarity. Did not leave the house; had some conversation with the Sheïkh, who seems to waver; still talks of the danger of the journey, and is desirous to detain me here. I have determined that he shall write to Tagakánth; if the expense is now to be exorbitant, I must wait for the kafilah, and go with Zeïn. Had I gone at first to him, I might have saved five hundred dollars. A young camel was killed for a feast to-night: I was so sickened at seeing some of the Arabs, and amongst them a relation of the Sheïkh’s, who took a large piece of the hump, and ate it raw, that all my appetite was gone for the night.