Tuesday, June 28.—Mekkí died yesterday. This is the first death since I have been here; and even this man might have been saved, had he followed my advice. A large arrival of poor female slaves: I was astonished at their spirits, especially when I saw the parting of two sisters; they certainly have not the same feelings as the whites. I am sorry to admit a point, which I have often strongly contested. During the evening I was taken very ill, and compelled to lie down.
Wednesday, June 29.—Therm. 82°. Took calomel, Hunt’s pills, &c., last night. Fainted away this morning, and had a great swimming in the head, but wanted courage to bleed myself. I mean to try what medicines and abstemiousness will do. Was very ill all day: took my carpet to the garden, where I passed a few quiet hours; went early to bed. The heat very oppressive.
Thursday, June 30.—Therm. 82°. Hazy and lowering. This morning another arrival from Taghakánth. A small party from Súdán has likewise been attacked. This last party confirms the news of the attack on Taghakánth, and brings intelligence that many of the Taghakánths have been killed. My room has been stormed by these fresh arrivals. I am sick to death of them, and have been poisoned by their stench. It is impossible to help myself, and the Sheïkh dare not say a word to them. The courier has arrived, and brought most satisfactory letters from Lord Glenelg, Mr. Hay, Mr. Willshire, &c. Had a party in the evening. All were anxious to see the King’s letter. Being much delighted, I staid up till two A.M. writing.
Friday, July 1.—Therm. 84°. The Damání crowd is off, and now comes the settling question. I saw at once that extortion was intended; but I cannot get Abú to act or speak with any force. They want two months to prepare. Asked at first 2,300 dollars; after much wrangling they came down to 1,500: this, added to the extravagant sum demanded by the Sheïkh, is more than I can venture to give, without the sanction of Mr. Willshire. I have written to him to know how I am to act. That same villain, Majíbí, who has already robbed me of 320 ducats, is at the bottom of all this. I hold a threat over them, that I have another way open. I now learn, that a report has got abroad of my being one of the royal family of England; that I have plenty of money, and that the people of Sús intend making me pay a larger sum for permission to return. We have counted too much on the Sheïkh. This has quite upset me.
Saturday, July 2.—Therm. 84°. Lots of wounded. The trouble I have in persuading these people that all cannot bear the same quantity of medicine, is quite provoking. I have made up some bread-pills to complete the number, where one would require three, and another only two. The Damánís have dropt to one thousand dollars, but I have refused to give an answer till I hear from Mr. Willshire. I sent to inquire about the two Christian Spaniards, who are in the desert. Wrote to Lord Palmerston, at Sheïkh Beïrúk’s request, and to Lord Glenelg, Thom, and G. Dodd. Sat up till day-light, having to dispatch my courier early. Laid down just as the sun was rising.
Sunday, July 3.—Therm. 82°. The Sheïkh came to me as soon as I had laid myself down. He told me that the Damánís were under an idea that I was a person of great consequence, and have large sums at my command; and that they have only to ask and receive. He said that as I should be obliged to pay the one thousand dollars to get on either way, I had better make up my mind to it; that he must admit his own agent had played the rascal, for he had not expended the sum he claims; but as he has received the money from the consul, there is, I fear, little chance of getting any of it back again. Wrote to his Royal Highness, Lord Glenelg, Mr. Hay, &c. Sent for my double-barrelled pistols, but forgot the spectacles. Sent to Mr. Hay for some knives and other things from Gibraltar. Read the prayers, and took to my carpet early, as I had been up two nights.
Monday, July 4.—Therm. 84°. Symptoms of great heat. Received a large present of Kermesú Nasárá, (fig of the Christians) and the prickly pear, (called Tagharnúp by the Berbers); they came very acceptably: there were also a few half-ripe pears and some apricots; I am afraid of fruit, but ate some of the first. The Damánís are very anxious for my answer. The Sheïkh Mohammed Múlid tells him, he will make an oath AHAD .................. that he will conduct me in safety to Tumbuktú and Jennah, and that he will obtain for me whatever I want from Hámed Libbú. I like this man; but have been so often disappointed, that I have some fear of eventually changing my opinion. He is more frank and open, and more like the man of his word, than any I have seen since I set my foot in Africa. Had great fun with the Taghakánth people, giving them some imitations of character. We are all friends. I was struck with the quiet and happy state of the slaves lately arrived here, who say they would not accept their liberty on condition of having to cross again the desert. This gives me a fearful idea of it; but I will try it.
Tuesday, July 5.—Therm. 84°. The Sheïkh Mohammed Múlid came to make his AHAD oath, that he would protect me, and do all in his power for me. Wrote to Mr. Willshire all particulars (of the information I had received), and likewise told him that Mons. Anthoine D’Abbadie intended to start from Tunis. Four slaves are here from Kóng, who have told Abú that his cousin and school-fellow Kutúk the warrior, is now the king of Kóng, and that his power extends to Ashantí. An Arab from some distance came in to-day with some savage-looking wretches: I was sitting or rather lying on the ground writing: I sent them off in a hurry; but was afterwards told that the Arab was a great Sheïkh, who, having heard of the arrival of a great Christian Sheïkh, had come to pay me a visit. On his return I told him that he ought to have taken off his slippers; he made a fair apology: I then asked him to sit down; when he said that he had heard of a Christian who could tell by a little magic thing, where any place in the world lay; but that he could not believe the story, and had therefore come to ask me about it. I humoured the man, and got out my pocket compass, and told him to question me; when I told him where each place was, and the number of days, which I had already learnt, between any two or more places. He then stated, that he had heard that I walked half the day and half the night, and was never tired. Is that true? said he; to which when I replied in the affirmative, he asked to inspect my feet, and after counting my toes, he told his companions that I had only five on each foot: he then examined the knee-pan and cried out Wáhed aëdá, ‘only one;’ then taking me by the hand, he praised the prophet. From this, as usual, he asked to see every thing, when I had to open boxes, &c., and could hardly get him and his party away: he then asked for a present; a little tobacco did here, but as he is coming again to-morrow, (it will not be so easy to satisfy him). I learnt a good deal from Tayyeb about Tumbuktú; he says that it contains sixteen mosques, of which Sídí ’Alís is the largest; that it takes two hours to go round the city, which now reaches to Kabrah; and that has a village contiguous to it on the north; that in these countries people walk but little: that its markets are now better than those of Jennah; and that people come to it from all quarters. He states also that Lamdo Lillahi[113] stands on the river, whereas the map makes it appear twenty miles to the east. He lived till he was thirteen years old at Tumbuktú, and has been here more than two years: he knows more than most persons of his age; but is a great scamp. His mother is one of Hámed Libbú’s family, and I therefore put up with many of his rogueries. The heat has been very trying to-day.
Wednesday, July 6.—Therm. 84°. At eleven A.M. the town was alarmed by the report that all the Sheïkh’s camels had been stolen. All the people mounted, and set off armed: even the women went out of the town on the road to Agadír, to see what was going on. At two P.M. most of the people returned: the report was only partially true. A few had been stolen, but the direction they had taken was known. Mohammed Sierra mounted my horse, and with two others went to get a reinforcement on the road. The reports about the great power of the Sheïkh, are all moonshine: it is in reality nothing. During my stay here, I have seen much of the African Arabs; they differ greatly from the Asiatic: they are more wild in their appearance, but far more cultivated: nearly all of them can read, and a great many can write. I have been much pressed about giving my answer as to going on. I must wait one week more; although I fear that the two months will have elapsed from the time of deciding. Am very anxious for the villain Majíbí and his party to leave me; I cannot bear the sight of that fellow, ever since I was convinced of his roguery. Am in some anxiety about my gold watch, as the Thillahs have stripped the last couriers that passed through Sús. This Majíbí’s villainy is capable of any thing. I gave him a rub this morning, and if I had only protection here, I would give him the stick.
Thursday, July 7.—Therm. 76°. Had a large party to dinner to day, as the Sheïkh had killed a cow. These beasts have come to feast on the entrails, which they prefer to the meat; on being asked what we did with them, I told them to their utter dismay, that we gave them to the common dogs, as well-bred ones would not touch them. Had some of the meat sent me, but it was not very palatable. I received likewise a present of unripe pears; for these people will not permit the fruit to ripen. At one P.M. about thirty of the tribe of Assereit Terjmert arrived here: they are worse than any I have seen as yet: had a row with them. The Sheïkh and all his people, who are evidently afraid of being asked for something by all new-comers, slink away, and leave me alone with every fresh batch of vagabonds: I told them my mind as well as I could, and then scolded them in English. At night the Aboudah Ich Saabi came, as it was expected, on a conference relative to this quarrel; but as it turned out, they only came to gorge: a cow is not killed every day. There is a report, that two hundred horse will be here to-morrow, with what truth, time will show. Am happy to hear that the beasts from Mogador are to go back on Monday next.