Friday, Aug. 5.—Therm. 76°. Weather much pleasanter. The night cool, and not so many vermin. Received a fine present of grapes. This evening the post came in, but brought no letters. The Sheïkh is in a great rage about a letter, which that rascal, Majíbí, has written; who now that he has been blown upon, is trying to make mischief. Affairs are rather ticklish. I have a hard game to play to keep all matters right. There is some unpleasant talk about the length of my stay, and some not very pleasing hints to the Sheïkh about his treatment of me. I have tried to put every thing in a correct light.
Saturday, Aug. 6.—Therm. 78°. Fine day. Feel somewhat better. There has been another fight between the Jews about my food and washing. I fear the Sheïkh leans to the scoundrel, whose wife is more free-looking than Fehedia, whom he cannot seduce: the case is to be heard to-morrow.
Sunday, Aug. 7.—Therm. 76°. Early this morning Sídí Mohammed El Fakír arrived from Suweïrah, bringing me a letter, together with tea, sugar, and coffee, from Mr. Willshire, and a present of fruit from himself. By the letter I learnt that the Sheïkh had written to Mr. Willshire for the money for the journey, which the Sheïkh said he had paid the Damánís. I do not, nor does Mr. Willshire, like this paying before hand. Had a large party at breakfast; there was one Múléï ’Alí, and some hogs of Berbers. Read the prayers, and prepared to catch the Sheïkh. He promises to give me an acknowledgment, that I shall have nothing to pay on my arrival at Tumbuktú, and that all shall be right. There are no signs of my tent coming back. Sídí Mohammed, who is anxious that I should not go on, brought his son, the only really learned man here, who is to write privately to Mr. Willshire, should any thing happen to me. I am more than ever pleased with the Fakír, and feel great satisfaction in having a person who can communicate, if necessary, with Suweïrah, unknown to the Sheïkh. I am not over easy that all is quite safe: these are a thankless people, and are now very angry that I have complained so much of the bad treatment I have experienced. I shall make friends with this young man, and try what can be done through him, in case of need. Feel much better to-day.
Monday, Aug. 8.—Therm. 78°. The house is full of visitors again, and my pest, the Sheïkh Hammó, has returned. Abú was puzzled to-day in some questions about Hájí Majíbí. Gave him a lesson to-night; but he is a very dull scholar: he has no idea of position,[118] nor can I make him understand the drawing of the ka’bah. Some mischief is at work from that rascal, Majíbí, who has gone back to Suweïrah. I will catch him yet. Feel better to-day, and am beginning to be myself again.
Tuesday, Aug. 9.—Therm. 78°. Up early, and out to breakfast. The post arrived with letters from Mr. Willshire, who says that he has sent half the money for the journey; but that no pesetas were to be procured, and therefore the remaining half would be sent by Hájí ’Abíb, whom Mr. W. insists upon coming here to see me off—an event which now seems doubtful. I do not like this payment of all the money before hand, as I may be left on the road, although I have great faith in the Damánís. I had some high words with the Sheïkh. His people owe Mr. Willshire five thousand dollars, and would not take a credit for the one thousand. My good opinion of the Sheïkh all oozing away. He is a beastly miser. Wrote to Mr. W. Felt done up again by this business.
Wednesday, Aug. 10.—Therm. 66°. The night was so cold, that I had to get up, and put on some clothes; and this morning the glass shews a fall of 10°. Felt this change very sensibly, and the more so as I have been out of temper since yesterday’s row with the Sheïkh. As there were symptoms of heat, I tried the thermometer, and found that it stood
| At | 10 | A.M. in the shade | 80° | in the sun | 110°. |
| — | 12 | M. | 82° | 124°. | |
| — | 2 | P.M. | 82° | 120°. | |
| — | 6 | 76° | 85°. | ||
| — | 10 | in doors | 75° | out of doors | 70°. |
I feel rather uneasy about the arrangements. Heard of a party going to Tumbuktú in ten days. I have been told not to pay all the money before hand. Am determined to speak again to the Sheïkh, even if I am to give up the thing. All parties here are agreed as to my having been ill treated. I fear this man is now bent on plunder. I mean to dispatch a courier privately to Mr. Willshire to-morrow. I cannot allow myself to be robbed with impunity. My treatment is now as bad as ever, and if the money be once paid, I shall never get on.
Thursday, Aug. 11.—Therm. 70°. It begins to feel very cold. All the people have taken to their Sulhams. A man was shot through the ankle, and they came to me for some camphor, their sovereign remedy. I told them that all mine was gone, and desired them to go to Mes’úd. This strange fellow was born a Jew, and is now a Muselmán. He is much looked up to. He too said that all his camphor was gone; but was sure that I had some; for he had seen a great many Jinns[119] about at this place, and one or two big ones at Agader, where I go sometimes, and he was sure that they came for my camphor; that they stole a great deal of his, and were very fond of it, and would come a long way to get it. Finding, however, the applicant, who was the father of the boy, to be greatly distressed for the want of the camphor, I give him a little and some plasters. Mes’úd told him how to tie it up, and Abú had to write a charm to keep away the Jinns, and prevent them attacking the boy on the road, which Mes’úd said they would be sure to do unless he took the spell with him. Abú wrote two extra charms for the Táleb, on the condition that he would shew me his book of magic to-morrow.
Friday, Aug. 12.—Therm. 70°. Had a great row with the Sheïkh, who has over-shot the mark; I fear we shall quarrel yet, and the thing fail entirely. Got the book on magic, but had to pay a mithkál for looking at it.