On Tuesday, Sept. 1, I went with Abou to see the Castle, where the officer on duty put some men through the manual and platoon exercise, and light infantry movements, much to the amusement of Abou, who was not less gratified with the feats of horsemanship exhibited by a company that performed the same evening at the theatre.
On Thursday, Sept. 3d, we went on board the Sarah Nigritia, and got off at one P.M., with the wind a-head and a considerable swell, which produced its usual effect upon many of the passengers, and myself among the number, but poor Abou was the worst of all; during the whole voyage he was absolutely wretched, and quite unable to rally,—a rather bad omen of his power to bear up, should greater difficulties present themselves on land.
On Monday, Sept. 7, we passed Cape Finisterre, running along the shore in comparatively smooth water, but with a heavy swell; and on the 9th we made Cape St. Vincent, and saw, at six P.M. on the morning following, Cadiz rising from the dark blue wave; and at half-past seven anchored in the bay. Some time before the boat came off to give us pratique I had gone ashore with Abou. After a good breakfast at the Posada Inglaterra, I proceeded to the Franciscan convent and chapel, and from thence to the cathedral. The last is a very beautiful building, but rather too gaudy, and in not the best taste of architecture. I returned to an omelette and a segar, and water and rien de plus; strolled afterwards through the town, celebrated alike for mostachas and mantillas, for playful fans, bronze faces, and pretty feet.
At one P.M., we were on board again for Gibraltar. Towards Seville there is a fine view of mountain scenery. But the country itself is in a wretched state, the natural consequence of the numerous revolutions it has been its fate to undergo, and where each province not only declares itself independent of the government, but of one another. How all this is to end, heaven only knows.
At ten P.M., we were called from the dinner-table by hearing that a brig had been capsized. Went on deck, and found the report to be too true. We sent our boats and took off some of the crew, and after crossing Trafalgar Bay, reached Gibraltar at a quarter past ten.
Friday, Sept. 11.—I went to the library, club, and court. All things seem to work well; but I much fear that I shall have some trouble about Abou: he has been made too much of; the Moors are all on the alert respecting him. I must beware of the French, too, for I foresee they will be intriguing against me. While some of our party are gone to visit the rock and the galleries, I am confined to my room on matters of business, which is not quite so pleasant a way of passing one’s time, although my window overlooks the bay of Algesiras,—a view that would form not a bad subject for a panorama.
Saturday, Sept. 12.—The Governor, Sir A. Woodford, sent Col. Fuller early to take me over the galleries, &c. Much as I had heard of them, they surpassed all my expectations. On my return, I received a visit from Sadi Abdallah, who wanted to take me to his house, and made the offer of his best services, which, I suspect, will exceed all the official ones. From him I heard that the king of Timbuctoo had gone on a pilgrimage to Mecca, taking Gibraltar in his way; so that I hope he may be returning to his capital when I am going thither. What a fortunate thing it would be if I could get the appointment of his Majesty’s hakeem (physician). Mr. Hay likewise paid me a visit: he is the British Consul at Tangier. As the subjects discussed during the interview were of an official and confidential nature, I cannot disclose them. I fear, however, that I am not to expect much assistance from him, although his offers are very kind. There is evidently something wrong on the other side of the Straits. I shall be guided rather by the intelligence and advice I receive from Benoliel,[1] whom I am to meet again to-day at the Governor’s, whose kindness and urbanity I shall never forget.
The weather is very hot, although the wind is easterly. The vessels of war sailed this morning for Cadiz. Spain is in a sad state. After dinner I went to St. Nicholas’ Cave. It was lighted up with blue lights. The band, the company, the soldiers, all added to the natural grandeur of the scene. The more I see of this place, the more I am delighted with it.
Sunday, Sept. 13.—The air much cooler. Staid at home and read the psalms and lessons. Mr. Hay called, and, after a long conference with him, I felt still disposed to adhere to my original resolution, of being guided rather by Benoliel. Towards evening the wind got up, and at night increased to a gale. The dust was dreadful. A Sunday at Gibraltar is more remarkable than at any other place. Jews, Turks, Moors, Protestants, and Catholics, all keep it in their own way, and each in a different one.
Monday, Sept. 14.—The wind still very high, and the dust quite distressing. I waited on the Governor as soon as he came from the convent, and afterwards visited Benoliel. His Excellency recommended my going, and he was backed by Benoliel, but opposed by Mr. Hay.[2] Dined again at the Governor’s, where I met his chaplain, Dr. Burrows, a gentleman of great learning.