Wednesday, Nov. 11.—Hazy and cold. Went round taking leave. Hope to be off to-morrow, and to get on shore on Friday, which is considered a lucky day amongst the Turks.
Thursday, Nov. 12.—Bought presents; packed up, and sailed at twelve in the Jasseim. Met with baffling winds, and did not get in till twelve P.M.
Friday, Nov. 13.—The weather cold. The gates shut. Went to Mr. Hay’s, who was particularly kind; he has got me a beautiful Moorish horse. We paid our first visit to the Governor, which was a very satisfactory one.
Saturday, Nov. 14.—Got up early, and breakfasted with Mr. Hay. The day cold but fine. We visited the castle and outskirts of the town and prison. Saw the armour, the town fountains, and Socco.[4] After lunch we went to the Kaid, to whom we made our presents, and received in return mona—one sheep, twelve fowls, and one hundred eggs; we then visited the tombs of the Sheiks, and returned by Vally.
Sunday, Nov. 15.—We intended to start for Tetuan at six A.M.; but as usual, the first start is a jib. We got off, however, at seven. The road was very heavy over a stiff clay. The first village we reached was Marranna. It is situated upon a hill, but presented nothing to interest us, except its numerous aloes, which were in full blossom; we counted not less than sixty in a space not larger than Grosvenor-square. The soil is very rich and the cattle are splendid. We then passed on to Djedoéédi, through a most beautiful country, with every variety of hill and dale, of mountain and valley, and of wood and water. We took our meal at a well, and I contrasted the simple food of the sturdy Moors—their thin bread, dates, and water, with our own meat, eggs, and wine. In the neighbourhood are the ruins of a large castle. After resting half-an-hour, we continued our journey through a defile flanked by a wood, and having something like a road, near which was a Fantasia,[5] which our kaid wanted us to see, and to bivouack there: but this we declined to do, and pushed on to El Bab, where, after frequent examination of our persons, and a lengthened palaver, we were admitted. The whole city was gone to bed. After groping our way, we reached at length the house of one Cohen, the interpreter to the Consul, Mr. Butler, who, in a most polite manner, got up to receive us. The thermometer at midnight stood at 40°, and we felt the cold very sensibly.
Monday, Nov. 16.—We sent our letters to Mr. Solomon, and made arrangements to visit the Báshá, a fine fat man, of the name of Hashásh. Our reception was most flattering. Fifty soldiers, ten under arms, together with his horses and a white mule saddled, were turned out to salute us in the court-yard. He received us in his kiosk, situated in a fine garden and enlivened by a fountain. He had a heap of clothes of various hues before him. We were presented with tea flavoured with ambergris, and other cups with verbenum in it, &c. &c. There was likewise a mountain of dates, a Popocatepetl[6] of biscuit, and an Ossa of sugared almonds. The tea was actually poisoned with the quantity of sugar. We complimented him to his heart’s content, and made our presents. He talked of his ladies “rárá,”[7] and, after going over the palace, we went away much gratified. We then paid a visit to Ersíní, the principal Moor of the place, whose house is very beautiful, and afterwards went to Mr. Levy’s, which is very comfortable, and saw the dresses and ornaments of his lady, which were truly magnificent. We then paraded the town. It is a large one, but, as usual, wretchedly dirty, and filled with dogs, &c. that act the part of scavengers. Of the bázárs, the Algerine is the most interesting, where we bought a few things, and, after dining, drank tea with Mr. Levy. The town is well situated, is surrounded with beautiful gardens, and protected by very respectable fortifications; its population is about forty thousand, of which the Jews form a fourth part.
Tuesday, Nov. 17.—We got up early, having felt very cold during the night, when the thermometer was at 40°; received our present of sheep, fowls, and eggs, which we sent to Mr. Butler, who would have us dine with him. We then visited the gardens of the Sulṭán and of the káïd, where we had a view of the country to the east; inspected the excavations and the pot-making; we afterwards forded the river. I cannot say I am fond of this fun. We then proceeded, through dreadful roads, to the Marína, the port, and returned home too late to see more of the town. After dining with Mr. Butler we took our leave, much delighted: the civilities of Mr. Levy and Mr. Butler I shall never forget. My expenses at this place were, one dollar a-day for bed and board; one dollar a-day to the soldiers who escorted us about the town and country; four to the one who took us from Tangier: two for each of the mules; half-dollar a-day for the beasts required for the promenade in the town and suburbs; two to the deputy-governor; one to his favourite soldier; one to his master of the horse; half-dollar to each of the negroes, and one peseta to each of the fifty soldiers.
Wednesday, Nov. 18.—Up at four A.M. Therm. 32°. A great deal of ice. The cold of this winter is unusually severe. We did not get out of the city till six. Halted at the same well as before. The journey requires from ten to eleven hours. We got in at five P.M., when we dined with Mr. Hay, who was exceedingly kind.
Thursday, Nov. 19.—The weather a little warmer, as the thermometer has got up to 42°. This place may be called the garden of the Tomans, the Ampelusian.[8] Dined with Mr. Hay, where I met Mr. Hodgson. Although my letters have been despatched, accompanied by one to the minister at Morocco, I must say, I have little hopes of getting on.
Friday, Nov. 20.—Therm. 55°; much rain, and weather very unpleasant. Received a visit from the Táleb Hasan, who is a learned man. The letter sent to the Sulṭán was enveloped in a silk handkerchief, and put into a tin case that cost two dollars; that to the minister, with similar appendages, cost one dollar. I paid, likewise, three dollars for the translation. On the day previous there was much lightning, which continued through the night.