The market is held under the shade of a silk-cotton-tree, the branches of which extend much farther than any other tree I had ever seen, and are so close as entirely to shade those under it from the burning rays of the sun. This is not usual in the cotton-tree, although they are always, at their full growth, of a great height and the trunk large.
I here observed also a tree bearing a singular fruit, the name of which has escaped my recollection. It is larger than, and much resembles an orange, but has merely a very thin skin, with pores like the orange, inside of which is a shell as hard as that of the cocoa-nut. This shell is about the thickness of a half-crown, and the kernel (which completely fills the shell) is a little thicker in consistence than butter, and of an acrid taste. This fruit is very valuable in making soap, and this soap is considered far superior to any other in this country. A fruit of the same species, but about one-third of the size, is also found in the neighbourhood, which is cleared of the kernel and converted into snuff-boxes. This kroom is named Sava.
After remaining here about an hour we again embarked, and crossed the upper end of the lake to a very large market, bearing N. 15° W. from the last-named place, and distant three miles and a half. Here we were met by several hundreds of persons, attracted by the novel appearance of the canoe, which was covered in with painted canvass, over a frame-work forming a house, with the exception of a space at each end for the canoemen, who navigate the canoe with long poles in the lagoon and lake. Hundreds came into the water as high as their middle to get alongside, no doubt induced by other motives than curiosity. My people used every effort, particularly my two volunteers, to keep the people back at a proper distance from the canoe. Besides the oppressive heat, increased by the crowd, the very disagreeable odour from their dirty skin is extremely offensive to those whose nasal organs are not properly seasoned to it. But as soon as I pushed the jalousies aside, and thrust my head through the aperture, a speedy and confused retreat was the result. Many were pushed down in the water and trod upon; but they soon returned, after being assured that I was quite harmless, and could not eat black man. No one of the party had ever before beheld a white man; but it would appear they had always heard, through such of their friends as had ever been on the coast, that white men always choose black men for food in preference to any other. All captains of slavers tell this to the slaves, besides many other absurdities.
This market is well attended, and supplied with every thing necessary for native consumption. Several articles of European manufacture are also exposed for sale. It is about fifty yards from the lake, and entirely void of any shelter or shade, and would not be known as a market-place as distinguished from any other space of ground trodden bare of vegetation. The market of Podefo is held daily, and is chosen as a central position for all the neighbouring towns. The great advantage of this place and other markets on the lake and lagoon is convenient water-carriage. The only dress worn at this place by males, and by those attending the market, is a small piece of cotton, twisted like a rope, tied round the loins and passed between the thighs, and drawn tightly round the lower part of their person. The females generally, who can afford such, wear a cloth wrapped round the body, just below the breast, and hanging a little lower than the knee. Slaves are taken in great numbers from this country.
We next proceeded to the mouth of the river Haho,[12] at the entrance of which is a small island, the river passing it on both sides. No doubt this island is formed by the force of the current during the rainy season, which washes down the soil and meets a check at the mouth of the river, by the swell on the lake.
After ascending two miles nearly N., we observed numerous beautiful species of the crane, white, blue, and brown, as well as the large pelican. Alligators were also very numerous. My canoemen now began to show some reluctance to proceed any farther, assuring me that the river was quite unfrequented by any creatures, except those we saw—alligators and biped tribes. I affirmed, that was the very reason why I was determined to proceed, and declared that the first person who disobeyed my orders I would throw into the water. This threat I was soon compelled to put into execution, by throwing overboard the head man of the canoemen. He begged hard to be allowed to come again into the canoe, promising to go wherever I chose. This man was the caboceer’s son. I allowed him again to come into the canoe, but still they worked very lazily. I then took my double-barrel into my hand, desiring my servant to tell them that they must not think, because I was a white man and alone, that they should disobey my orders with impunity, declaring that I would shoot the first man who should disobey me. After this they proceeded tolerably well till a large hippopotamus showed his head above the water. He soon, however, disappeared.
I cannot say that I had not any apprehensions for the safety of the canoe, particularly as the river here was not more than twenty yards wide and twelve feet deep. The canoemen showed every symptom of fear, but by repeated threats they were induced to proceed; and, until they had passed the place where the hippopotamus had appeared, they urged the canoe with a speed much beyond any of their previous exertions. The African is generally a great coward, particularly if at any distance beyond his own locality. After many solicitations to allow them to return, finding their appeal of no avail, the men worked tolerably well, and we ascended the river rapidly, the current being not more than one mile per hour.
The course of the river changed so much as to make me almost doubt the accuracy of my compass, but having two on board, I satisfied myself. After ascending the stream fifteen miles, the scenery on the banks changed from an open plain on each side, with long coarse reeds, to banks rising about seven or eight feet, with large trees of various sorts, many of the drooping kind, their long fibres falling into the smooth, glassy stream as it stole slowly along. At this place the current is scarcely perceptible. The jasmine, twining round some of the smaller trees or shrubs, filled the atmosphere with its luxurious odours, and close to the water’s edge were beautiful flags, similar to those of Britain, but bearing a large white flower. The sun was just sinking below the horizon, and his last rays were reflected through the openings of the rich foliage on the smooth surface of the still stream.
Here in the tropics there is no twilight, consequently as soon as the sun disappears from the horizon all is dark as midnight. As we had not seen any thing resembling a human habitation, or even the appearance of a path or footmark, this circumstance, and the tameness of the birds, large and small, induced me to conclude that we were at a considerable distance from any kroom or town; I therefore determined to stop for the night on the first part of the bank clear of the bush I could find. Fortunately, the moon was bright, and in about three quarters of an hour I observed a small creek on the left bank, which we entered, but found that it did not extend more than a few yards. I rejoiced, however, to find the ashes and marks of a fire having been recently kindled on the bank. We surveyed all round, to ascertain if any path led from this place, but being disappointed we again went on board, and ascended the stream, convinced from the marks already mentioned that some habitation was near. The hippopotamus and alligators were now, however, making desperate plunges into the water at short intervals, from the banks on either side, rendering the navigation in a narrow river hazardous. The water was also becoming deep with a mud bottom, so that poles of fifteen or eighteen feet were of no use. I was now obliged to take a pole, to show the canoemen how to use them as oars. Fortunately the current here was scarcely perceptible, and our progress was greater than I anticipated.
After ascending two miles more, I observed a strong light on the left bank near at hand. This was a cheering sight to all of us, as we thought it was a kroom, or at least a habitation; we found it, however, to be nothing more than a camp of seven fishermen, and ten or twelve boys. Each of the men stood on the bank, armed with old muskets, ready, no doubt, to give us a volley in the event of our being enemies. But I had myself two double-barrels and pistols, as well as my sabre. Upon being addressed, however, by my old friend Ithay Botho, they lodged their arms, and we landed, and found that these people frequently came down the river as far as the place where we observed the last marks of fire on the banks to catch fish, but never ventured lower, declaring, that if they proceeded farther, one large fetish alligator destroyed every person, as well as smashed the canoe. They accounted for our being permitted to pass because I was a white man, and that it intended to have some more of his amphibious friends to witness his grand performance with me. However, I told them that white man’s fetish had more power than their fetish alligator. They then described his enormous dimensions and power, which entirely prostrated all the courage of my canoemen. I was in hopes that the dread of returning to encounter such a monster would be an inducement to them to proceed onwards with less reluctance, as I had assured them we could return down the Volta. However, the old fishermen pointed out equal difficulties in ascending, unless great sacrifices were made to propitiate the river-spirit or fetish. My canoemen seemed now hemmed in by dangers on all sides.