I have just learned that two more American vessels are in Whydah roads at present for the same purpose, and one has lately sailed from Popoe with a cargo of slaves: In fact, the American government seems to wink at the trade. Whoever heard of an American man-of-war capturing a slaver, though there are three American men-of-war on the coast at present? I forgot to mention the circumstance of a Spaniard who was employed as a hand on board the Medora schooner, from London. Upon perceiving the slaves put on board the American brig, anchored at a short distance, he jumped overboard to swim to her, but had only been in the water a few seconds, before a large shark approached him. The poor fellow kicked with his feet towards the shark, endeavouring to keep it off, but the shark darted on him, and tore away his arm. A boat was immediately lowered, but before it reached him the shark made a second attack, and the poor fellow, who was swimming with one hand, was again seized on the back of the shoulders, and dragged under water, the tail of the shark remaining in sight. When the boat reached the spot, the shark appeared on the surface, still holding the man. One of the men in the boat struck the shark’s head with a boat-hook, when he relinquished his hold; but the poor fellow’s flesh was completely torn from the bone. A small rope was fastened round his back, and he was got into the boat, and after being taken on board the Medora died in half an hour.
This coast abounds with sharks; and if a man is so unfortunate as to fall overboard he is sure to be caught by one of them.
June 5th.—Don Francisco de Suza, who has for some time back been exerting his influence with the King of Dahomey to allow me to visit his capital, and pass through to the Kong Mountains, has just received a satisfactory reply. Though M. de Suza is ill and confined to his bed with rheumatism, the old gentleman was so much pleased with the success of his application, that he sent for me to his bed-side to inform me of the good news, assuring me of his readiness to supply me with everything for my journey, and with presents suitable for the King and his principal ministers. Mr. Hutton had charged me not to go shabbily to Dahomey, as, in whatever circumstances I went, I would surely be considered as the representative of my country; and that, in fact, unless I went as such, I would be little noticed.
Under such circumstances I felt somewhat embarrassed, for Mr. Hutton had been ever since my arrival at Cape Coast my sincere and constant friend. He had supplied me with an order upon his factories at Ahguay, Whydah, and Badagry, for anything I might require to ensure my success, and also requested M. de Suza to interest himself in furthering my views, and to furnish me with suitable presents. M. de Suza, as I have said, declared his willingness to do anything in his power to assist an Englishman; for although English cruisers had captured twenty-two of his slave vessels, yet he respected an Englishman more than any others, his own countrymen not excepted. Under the circumstances, I was glad to avail myself of his proffered kindness, although my satisfaction was mingled with reluctance at my inability to repay the expense incurred, except by pawning myself to any one who might require my services after my return to the coast. This was rather a gloomy prospect; however, I was determined to risk all. On the following day, therefore, according to M. de Suza’s instructions, everything was ready, with twenty people to carry my baggage, provision, and cowries. Cowries are a very awkward money, requiring one man to carry two pounds’-worth.
CHAPTER X.
Set out on my Journey for Abomey—Savay—Torree—My wretched Condition—Azoway—Parasitical Plants—Aladda—Cotton tree—Atoogo—Assewhee—Havee—A Butterfly-School—Whyboe—Construction of the Houses—Native Customs—Manufactures—African Character generally—Population of Whyboe—Akpway—An extensive Swamp—Ahgrimmah—Togbadoe—Scenery—Soil—Swarm of Locusts.
At one o’clock, during a heavy rain, we started from Whydah, leaving my servant, an American, who had belonged to the American vessel already mentioned, but who refused to remain on board after the vessel was converted into a slaver. He had been foolish enough to lend a negro four dollars, and was endeavouring to get it back; but after remaining a whole day, he was of course obliged to put up with the loss of his money.
This was a gloomy commencement of my journey; for I had nothing but a set of villains with me, ready to rob me when an opportunity should offer. The path from Whydah commences E. N. E. magnetic; and two miles N. E., then N. one and three quarters, I reached Savay, a small kroom of one hundred and fifty inhabitants, distant from Whydah five miles and three quarters, instead of nine miles, as computed by the natives. The country is open, the soil red, loamy sand, of excellent quality. The rain had ceased. One of my carriers broke down purposely, in order that another of his rascally confederates might be employed to assist him, though his load was not forty pounds’ weight. He returned to Whydah by another road to avoid meeting me, but M. de Suza’s headman, after administering a flogging to him, sent the villain back to me, and so he did not effect his object, having for his villany added eleven miles and a half to his day’s journey.
After dismounting a few minutes at Savay, we again resumed our journey. The road still magnetic N. five miles, then changing to N. E. three and three quarters, I reached Torree, distant eight miles and three quarters from Savay, and fourteen and a half from Whydah. The country was level and wooded for the last stage. I stopped at Torree during the night, without a servant, clothes wet, horse wet, and no house for him. I was obliged to cook, and attend to my horse; in fact, to do every thing myself. Heavy rain during the night, and until half past eleven o’clock on the following morning, the 7th, when we again commenced our journey. Bearing N. seven miles and a half, reached Azoway, a kroom with one hundred inhabitants,—last stage a beautifully wooded path, and good road. Observed some splendid parasitical plants, with a very beautiful flower; one with an octagon-shaped spreading flower of a bright vermilion colour with six yellow petals, about the size of a primrose. The plant is four or five feet high, long, slender, woody stem, of a clinging character. This is the only place at which I have observed this plant.
After stopping five minutes and drinking water with the headman, we marched from Azoway, the country resembling a gentleman’s park in England; rising ground three miles to the eastward, road bearing N. two miles, then N. W. seven miles, reached Aladda, a town with a good market and king’s house built for the accommodation of white men visiting Dahomey. Near this place I shot a monkey and gave it to my carriers, who considered it a great luxury. I ate a piece of his liver, which was very good. The King keeps wives at this place, the head one of whom sent me water and a present of a fowl. The land is level, with good soil, and plenty of corn; distant seven miles and three quarters from Azoway, and from Torree fifteen miles and a quarter. On the road I had hired some assistant carriers, and my people were now in better marching order, and all seemed comfortable and myself happy. In the house where I slept I found a sheet of paper written in Arabic, and suspended to one of the beams by the corner. I was told that this was placed there as a charm or amulet, by a Mahomedan priest passing through this place. Here I observed one of the largest cotton trees I ever saw, except one on the banks of the river Niger, which I measured when engaged in the Niger expedition in 1841. That measured fifty-seven feet, but the caboceer of Aladda objected to my measuring this without the King’s leave.