At four miles and a half from Togbado, reached Canamina, a large town, scattered over a vast area of ground, the land level and well cultivated, resembling our fields in England. The country is open to a considerable distance. This town contains at least ten thousand inhabitants. The King has here also a house for the accommodation of white people, although they so seldom visit this place. Ever since Mr. Freeman’s visit, the King has been very anxious to encourage intercourse with English people. At this place we remained for the night, and were well accommodated.
Early on the following morning, June 10th, the pretended governor of the English fort at Whydah, a deceitful old scoundrel, who created himself governor of the fort under the pretence of taking care of it, though, as I had before stated, he has let all go to ruin except the part he himself occupies, met me at Canamina, for the purpose of introducing me to the town of Abomey. After breakfast I cleaned my regimentals, and my white servant got my horse and trappings; ready and the day being fine, I formed a very decent turn out, my regimentals being good, the same as then worn in my old regiment, the First Life Guards. I was amused at the vanity of the old governor, who showed a great anxiety to precede me, with a view of making it appear to the people that he was my superior, and that I was merely his escort. He himself was carried in an old ragged hammock by four negroes, and was dressed in an old worn-out gambroon coat of English pattern. This piece of vanity I suffered him to indulge in till we arrived at Adawie, three miles and a half from Canamina, and with the same bearing as the previous day. I then ordered him to fall in my rear, which order he pretended not to understand. I galloped up to his hammock and stopped him. This seemed to mortify him very much, particularly as he had always informed the people of this place that he was one of the greatest men of Whydah, and had been appointed by the Queen of England as governor over all white men.
We arrived at Abomey at three minutes past one o’clock, amidst crowds of spectators, and were guided to an excellent house prepared for me by Mayho,[15] the King’s prime minister, an excellent old man, and very different to the generality of uncivilized Africans, not having that covetous and selfish disposition usual with them. He was always anxious to furnish me with every necessary which he had heard a white man required or used. After welcoming me and my people, his first inquiries were for Mr. Freeman, and why he was so long before he again visited him? He then desired to drink my health and a welcome to Abomey from a liquor-case which he had already sent to my house. As he was busily employed with the King in making preparations for my formal reception on the following morning, Mayho soon retired, leaving me to get my house in order. After a short interval plenty of provisions for more than forty persons were sent me from the King’s house. We were now comfortably accommodated; and I was much pleased with the kind reception I had met with.
My house or houses contained accommodation for three large families, with two kitchens and large yard, the whole completely walled in. In front of my door was a very fine large orange-tree covered with fruit, and a large bench or seat under it entirely shaded from the sun. In the evening Mayho again called on me and delivered the King’s compliments, informing me that his Majesty was very happy to hear of an Englishman’s arrival in his town, and hoped that many more would visit his capital, assuring me that nothing on his part should be wanting to make every one comfortable. He desired Mayho also to inform me that his Majesty would be happy to receive me formally at an early hour on the following morning. This was gratifying news, as a visitor generally waits many days before he condescends to see them. During all this palaver the whole of the attendants were on their knees, Mayho himself not excepted, this being their mode of procedure when delivering or receiving a message from the King, besides kissing the ground and covering their heads with dust.
On the following morning at an early hour another bountiful supply of provisions arrived, and after an early breakfast I was fully equipped, and rode, attended by some of the King’s principal men, to the market-place or parade-ground in front of his palace or house. On our march to the market-place we passed along part of the walls of the palace, which covers an immense space. The walls as well as houses are made of red sandy clay, and on top of the walls, at intervals of thirty feet, human skulls were placed along their whole extent. On approaching nearer the market-place we beheld, on an elevated pole, a man fixed in an upright position, with a basket on his head, apparently holding it with both his hands. A little farther on we saw two more men, now in a state of decomposition, hung by the feet from a thick pole, placed horizontally on two upright poles about twenty feet high. Passing close to them the smell was intolerable. The arms hung extended downwards, and at a little distance a stranger would (from their shrivelled and contracted condition) suppose them to be large sheep or goats; the skin from exposure had turned nearly to the colour of that of a white man. I found upon inquiry the bodies had been in this position about two and a half moons. All reckoning here is by the moon. The vulture was industriously endeavouring to satisfy his appetite, but the heat of the sun had dried the skin so as to render it impenetrable to his efforts.
On the opposite side of the market were two more human bodies in the same position as those I have just mentioned with the exception that the bodies had been mutilated. This excited my curiosity, for decapitation is the favourite mode of execution in Abomey. I was informed that these men had been guilty of adulterous intercourse with one of the King’s wives, in consequence of which, they were sentenced to be put to death by being beaten with clubs, and after death mutilated. The King had not yet arrived at the appointed place, where a high stool and footstool were placed for him under a huge umbrella, surrounded by about twenty more of nearly the same dimensions, forming a crescent—his own being in the centre. He had requested, through Mayho, that I would salute him as I would the Queen of England, for he was anxious to become acquainted with European manners and customs. Accordingly, upon a nearer approach I saluted his Majesty according to military regulation, with which he seemed much pleased, and returned the compliment in a much more graceful manner than I expected. He then requested me to dismount and come to him. Upon which, his prime minister and four others next in rank, who were conducting me to his Majesty’s presence, desired me to halt till they paid their compliment to his Majesty, forming line in front of me. They completely prostrated themselves at full length, rubbing both sides of their faces on the ground, and kissing it. They then raised themselves on their knees, where they remained till they had completely covered themselves with dust, and rubbed their arms over with dirt as high as the shoulders.
I was much surprised as well as disgusted with such absurd, abject humiliation. Their robes, which a few minutes before looked clean and, respectable, were now, as well as their persons, smeared with dirt. Myself and the Governor of Whydah fort were the only persons who did not observe the same degrading form. Even the soldiers, male and female, although under arms, observe the same humiliation. After this ceremony we stepped forward to the King, and he descended from his stool or throne, and shook me cordially by the hand, declaring his great satisfaction at having an Englishman in his country. He then proposed to drink my health. A table having already been prepared for me, a liquor-case was placed thereon, containing numerous different sorts of flasks and decanters, with as many sorts of liquors, namely, Hollands, rum, brandy, aniseed, claret, cherry brandy, and other cordials. He then asked me whether it was not customary to drink the health of my sovereign first. I told him that every good Englishman always observed such courtesy, but as I was his visitor I was sure the Queen of England would readily sanction my drinking his own first. This was done in cherry brandy, of excellent quality; then the Queen and all her family, and afterwards my own health was drunk.
During the time the King is drinking, his face is always concealed from observation by a number of handkerchiefs, held up round his head. At this moment a firing of muskets and beating of gong-gongs and hurrahing takes place. After asking me a few questions respecting the royal family of England, his Majesty requested my horse to be brought nearer, so that he might see it and also examine the appointments, with which he seemed much satisfied, particularly upon being shown the holsters and pistols, which were covered with bear-skin. He was also much pleased with the manner of fixing the carbine on the saddle. He then declared that white men knew everything.
He next desired me to ride, that he might see the exercise, at the same time ordering two of his principal men to walk by my side and hold me on. This I did not properly understand at first, not knowing their language, but after retiring a sufficient distance from his Majesty, clear of the soldiery, I formed a circle to the right. My two holders signified that I must not form circle to the right, the King alone possessing that privilege; whereupon I countermarched, and began a sharp trot, urging my two holders to keep out of my way, but all was of no avail. I then halted, and desired my interpreter to tell the King that Englishmen never required holding on their horse. Upon which he seemed surprised, and told me to do as I thought proper, but begged me rather not to ride for his gratification than run any risk. I again assured him that there was no danger, and put my horse in motion, first at a trot and then a gallop.
The King then stood up, clapping his hands In approbation. Upon which the whole assembled multitude followed the example, which much terrified my horse. After a few more circles performed, the King desired me to dismount and come beside him and sit down, thanking me for my performance. Upon our close approach, his ministers went again through the same ceremony I have already described, and afterwards I was ushered to a seat close to the King, who paid me great attention, and showed every anxiety to give me information and explain everything to me.