[19] Makee is pronounced Mahee in the Kong mountains.
CHAPTER XIII.
Departure for the Kong Mountains—My Dahoman Guards and their several Duties—The King’s Wife—Neighbouring Krooms—Soil and Aspect of the Country—Varied Scenery—Cana—Bobay—Illness of my Servant—Immense Blocks of Granite—Custom-house—Duties imposed—Milder Laws established—Dtheno—Travelling Traders—The Azowah—Destruction of the Shea Butter-tree—Its Manufacture declared to be lawful—Description of this Tree—Immense Mountains—Ruins of Managlwa—Destruction of that Town by the Dahomans—Beautiful Scenery—Markets—Setta Dean—Reception by the Caboceer—Dance performed by him—Setta—Serenade—Supply of Provisions—Custom of Tasting—The Caboceer’s Speech—The Natives expert as Cooks—Variety of Food—Palm Oil—Occro—Presents from the Caboceer—The Widow’s Mite—Harmless Deception—Presents to the Natives—Dance performed by the Soldiers—Situation of Setta; its Soil, &c.—Its Population.
July 9th.—According to a previous arrangement with his Majesty respecting my journey to the Kong Mountains, which are situated in the Mahee country, at an early hour this morning I was awoke by the sound of drums and horns from a band assembled in my court-yard. My good old friend Mayho entered my apartment soon after, announcing that my guard was all ready for the march. Upon this, I made preparations for getting my own people ready as quickly as possible. This was no easy task, for the African is naturally slow and indolent, and my people, moreover, were principally people from Whydah, who, like most of their race, are great cowards when at any distance from their own country; more especially were they so on this occasion, as they knew I was going through the Mahee country, the inhabitants of which were known to be a fierce and warlike people. However, after some considerable delay and grumbling, I got myself and party ready; but even then several of the lazy fellows raised an objection to proceeding, alleging that their loads were not well proportioned. Upon using the horsewhip, however, pretty sharply amongst them, I enforced obedience.
The captain of my guard begged me not to trouble myself to punish the men, telling me that I had merely to point out any individual who might show any inclination to disobedience or misconduct, and he would punish him severely. He said he was well acquainted with the character of the Whydah people; “Besides,” he observed, “the King had given him strict orders to watch them narrowly, on account of their thievish propensities.” This being said in the presence of all the Whydah people seemed to take them much aback; but it had an excellent effect, as all my orders were given through the captain of my guard. They were also aware that in Dahomey theft is punishable with death. After Mayho had fallen in, and inspected the guard, I was desired to parade them myself, which, to satisfy myself of the efficiency of the men and their equipments, as well as to see their store of ammunition, I did.
My guard I found consisted of a hundred picked men, who had all been through the late wars in that part of the Kong Mountains which I was now about to visit. This arrangement was made with a view to give me every information respecting the country we might pass through. After my inspection, Mayho, as well as the officers, seemed much gratified to find that every thing was to my entire satisfaction. Mayho next called out all the officers and petty officers of my guard, explaining the several duties of the various ranks. Amongst them were two whose duties were of a very peculiar nature. The first was a caboceer, a man of great trust, and a native of the Mahee country, through which I should pass. He was selected on account of his superior knowledge of that country. His instructions were to walk in advance of my horse’s head, not more than five yards, so as to be near me, to answer any inquiry I might make respecting the country. His duty was also to point out, by striking with a stick, any obstacle in the narrow paths[20] along which we should pass, so as to prevent my horse stumbling.
The next person who was introduced had the rank or title of the King’s Wife. This rank seemed to me to be very absurd, for the individual was an uncommonly fine young man. I was soon made aware on what account this title was given, and its nature. Mayho explained to me that a certain number of men, the most trust-worthy, were selected from the King’s household to accompany different divisions of the army when on any particular expedition. These men are called King’s wives on account of the reliance and trust placed in them. Their duty is to report, by private messenger to the King, any misconduct or neglect of the superior officers; but in this instance, his orders were to receive any report or complaint I might have to advance against my captain, or any caboceer or chief in any of the towns through which I might pass. In the event of my making any complaint, a messenger, who is also sworn, is despatched to head-quarters, to report it to the King.
His Majesty had given orders that as soon as I was quite ready to march, a messenger, who was in waiting, should be despatched to the palace to inform him. The messenger, upon his return, communicated the King’s desire that I should remain a few minutes longer, when, to my surprise, another messenger arrived with two more heads of cowries and a keg of rum, although he had already furnished me with a good supply. The King had made arrangements that, upon my passing through my own gate to commence the march, one gun was to be fired as a warning; upon which, twenty-one guns of heavy ordnance were fired in succession, accompanied with a continuous rattle of small arms, my band striking up. One half of my guard marched behind me, the other in front. Thus we marched for the Kong Mountains. Mayho, and several more of the King’s household and principal caboceers, as well as many of the principal traders and merchants of the town of Abomey, accompanied me about a mile on the road, all of whom seemed to evince a lively interest in my safety and success. After passing through the gates of the town, my friends halted, and gave me a hearty shake of the hand, wishing me every success. They then returned, and I resumed my journey.
The path, after leaving the gates of the town a few yards, turns short from S.E. to N., and passes through beautifully cultivated fields of corn of various sorts, as well as many different sorts of beans and peas. Many sorts of ground beans are also cultivated here, some of the size and shape of a large marble, and of a delicious flavour, commonly used by the natives in soups and stews, as well as separately. This scene was truly beautiful, the corn full six feet in height, with beautiful white and red flowers about a foot in height, so numerous that at a little distance the ground appeared a continuous bed of flowers. At short distances were many small but neat krooms, from which issued the sable inhabitants to get a sight of the King’s stranger, as they termed me. Many of the most courageous came close to the path to pay respect to me. I cannot express the delight I now felt, to find myself, after all my disappointments, marchings and countermarchings, fairly on the road to the far-famed Mountains of Kong, and under such favourable auspices, more especially after the King of Ashantee had refused to let me pass through his country for the purpose.
After marching seven and a half miles through the sort of country I have described, a large town, bearing N.W., was pointed out to me, distant two miles from the path. My principal guide informed me that several markets were held there, as well as a market kept close to the path, where provisions ready cooked, as well as peto, are sold for the accommodation of travellers. At eight miles we found ironstone in a fused state. The soil now changed from a red or brown colour to a rich black loam, still well cultivated, in drills,—a convincing proof of the advantages derived from the instruction of many of the returned slaves from the Brazils. Here some of the stalks of corn measured seven and eight feet in height. Rice is also grown here to a considerable extent, and, like some other kinds of grain, gives four crops in twelve moons, or twelve months, as stated by the natives.