Published by Richard Bentley 1847.
TRAVELS
IN
WESTERN AFRICA.
CHAPTER I.
Departure—Arrival at Tangiers—Description of the Town—Market—Price of Provisions—Method of Storing Grain—Inhabitants—The Jews—A Jewish Dwelling—The Moors—Fruits and Flowers—Desolate State of the Town—Moorish Market-women—Gibraltar—Ascend to the Highest Point—A Pic-nic and an agreeable Reconnoitre—Cleanliness of the Inhabitants—Arrival at the Gambia—Bathurst—The Mandingos—Massacre of the Crew of the Margaret—Encounter of the Crew of the Courier with Pirates—Sierra Leone—Dr. Ferguson—Mr. Oldfield, his Hospitality—Gave Chase to a supposed Slaver—Cape Coast—Governor Hill—Cape Coast Castle.
The Lords of the Admiralty having given orders that I should have a free passage to any port of the west coast of Africa, and Lord Stanley having also provided me with letters of introduction to the governors of the different settlements at the Gambia, Sierra Leone, and Cape Coast, with orders to render me every assistance in their power, and being also furnished with letters by Mr. Bandinell, of the Foreign Office, to the different Commissariats on the coast, requesting them to render me assistance, I made preparations for my departure forthwith. The Geographical Society had kindly furnished me with the necessary instruments to make my geographical observations, and with the maps of Africa; and, in a generous and delicate manner which I shall never forget, presented me with a small sum of money. I now, therefore, merely waited for an official order to proceed by any vessel which might be directed to take me. This order soon arrived, and I went on board the Cygnet brig of war, Captain Layton.
I was received by the captain and the rest of the officers in the most cordial manner. After getting my luggage, however, on board, another order was forwarded from the Admiralty, transferring me to the Prometheus steamer, Captain Hay, then under orders for the Gambia with money. Accordingly, my luggage was put on board the last-named vessel, and on Sunday afternoon, the 16th of June, 1844, I and my servant, William Stevens, went on board at Spithead, where the several vessels, the St. Vincent, Prometheus, and Cygnet, were riding at anchor near each other. I was received in a very kind manner by Captain Hay and Lieutenant M’Gregor, and the other officers of the Prometheus.
I must not forget to mention that Captain Johnston assisted me in obtaining a knowledge of the sextant, and Lieutenant Raper presented me with a copy of his valuable work on “Practical Navigation.” Captain Johnston, moreover, came on board the Prometheus at Portsmouth to request Captain Hay to make me as comfortable as possible, as well as my servant and my dog.
At four o’clock on Monday morning, June 17th, we weighed anchor (with steam up), taking the Cygnet in tow as far as Plymouth Sound. At a late hour on Sunday night Captain Hay unexpectedly received despatches ordering him to go to Tangiers and Gibraltar, at which I felt not a little disappointed, for I had fully expected to have an opportunity of visiting the island of Madeira, and of seeing my friend and countryman Mr. W. Gordon, whose kindness I had already experienced. However, my disappointment was fully compensated by being thus allowed to visit Tangiers, off which we anchored on the 23d. As Captain Hay had despatches for the Governor, I had an opportunity of going on shore for a few hours.
On landing I was stopped by several Jews as well as Moors offering their services to show me the town and market, this day (Sunday) being their principal market-day. The town of Tangiers is strongly fortified towards the sea, but quite defenceless from the land. The houses are generally square, and nearly flat-roofed, and the whole town is built on a steep declivity towards the bay. There is no regularity in the streets. The main street is from the bay, or landing-place, close to which is the custom-house. It is about a quarter of a mile in length, narrow, crooked, and very badly paved, with shops on each side, similar to the butchers’ shops in England, but not so clean. This street leads through the centre of the town to the outer wall, immediately behind which the market is held. The market-place is in a hollow immediately behind the town, but not enclosed in any way. It appeared to be well supplied with cattle and meat.