At twenty-three miles we crossed a small stream, called Azowah, running from east to west, the bed consisting of blocks of granite of irregular form and size. The trees here were stunted and scrubby, owing to the annual burning of the grass, which is done partly with a view of consuming the decayed vegetable matter, and partly to destroy the vegetative powers of the shea butter-tree. The destruction of this tree is a suggestion of the Spanish and Portuguese slave-dealers, the shea butter having formerly been a considerable article of trade amongst the natives, and it was feared would become one of European trade, and tend to attract the attention of the natives to its manufacture to the injury of the slave-trade. The slave-dealers of Whydah consequently made interest with the King of Dahomey to impose a heavy duty upon the shea butter exposed in the markets for sale. Still the demand of the natives was so great for this article, that even the duty imposed did not discourage them from the manufacture of it, till this duty was doubled. This imposition being too heavy, caused the poor natives to establish a system of smuggling, and, with a view to abolish smuggling, strict orders were issued to burn every tree in the kingdom of Dahomey, as well as those of the Mahee country subject to the King of Dahomey. Still, with all the burning, vegetation is so rapid and powerful, that much of the above article is still produced. In consequence of the manufacture being declared illegal, numerous petitions were presented to his Majesty, or rather verbally conveyed to him, declaring the medical properties of the shea butter, and its beneficial use as an ointment, as well as a stomachic tonic; and his Majesty, with his exemplary goodness of heart, notwithstanding the solicitations of the most influential slave-dealers, declared the manufacture of a certain quantity (sufficient for the above-named purpose) to be lawful throughout the whole of his dominions.
A short description of the shea butter-tree and plant may interest some of my readers. This tree has much of the character of the laurel, but grows to the height of eighteen or twenty feet. Its leaf is somewhat longer than the laurel, and is a little broader at the point; the edges of the leaf are gently curved, and are of a dark sap green colour. The nut is of the form and size of a pigeon’s egg, and when ripe is of a dun or light brown colour. The substance of the shell is about that of an egg, and the kernel completely fills the shell. When new it is of a white drab colour, but if long kept becomes the colour of chocolate. The kernel, when new, is nearly all butter, which is extracted in the following manner:—The shell is crushed from the kernel, which is also crushed, and then a quantity is put into an earthen pot or pan, placed over the fire with a portion of water and the nut kernels. After boiling slowly about half an hour the whole is strained through a grass mat into a clean vessel, when it is allowed to cool. Then, after straining the fibrous part from it, it is put into a grass bag and pressed so as to obtain all the oil or butter. This is poured into the first vessel along with the first-mentioned portion, and when cold is about the consistence of butter.
The nuts hang in bunches from the different boughs, but each nut has its own fibre, about seven or eight inches long, and about the thickness and colour of whip-cord. The nut is attached to the fibre in a very singular manner. The end of the fibre is concealed by a thin membrane about half an inch wide and three quarters of an inch long. This membrane is attached to the side of the nut, and when ripe relinquishes its hold, and the nut falls to the ground, when it is gathered for use. A good-sized healthy tree will yield about a bushel of nuts, but the greater number are not so prolific. The trees close to the stream present a more healthy appearance, probably on account of being better watered, and the fire being less powerful close to the stream.
Besides the shea butter-tree, there are many other beautiful trees, amongst which I observed the tamarind, the quashie, and different species of the mimosa, and running plants. The aloe is also in great abundance here, and in seed.
At twenty-four miles we crossed a valley running N.W. and S.E. This valley is thickly wooded with large trees, beautifully adorned with various running plants and thick underwood, so much so as nearly to close up the path, which is, as I have described already, at all times very narrow. At twenty-five miles, bearing NN.E. and on the left of the path, are immense mountains or blocks of granite with large detached fragments on the summit. At twenty-six miles and a half, and four miles to the eastward, are the ruins of a former large town, named Managlwa. This town was romantically situated on an elevated position amongst an immense cluster of singularly formed spiral rocks, much resembling broken columns or spires of several hundred feet in height, rising far above the tops of the tall and beautiful trees which clothe the mountain. This town was one of the frontier, or first towns in the Mahee country, and one of the first which was destroyed by the Dahomans after the Mahees declared war against the King of Dahomey. My guide informed me that the whole of the population were either killed or taken as slaves, and the town set on fire. The inhabitants are said to have fought desperately, preferring death to defeat. The King and all his caboceers or headmen were killed, and their heads are still preserved at Dahomey as trophies of victory.
At twenty-seven miles, bearing N. 10° W. the country again became level, and presented cultivated patches at intervals along the path, with small krooms at short distances. The scenery now became beautiful and striking, the mountains to the east, north, and west, forming an amphitheatre. Close to the main path, along which we were passing, are small markets, held at the terminus or junction of minor paths, branching off to small towns or krooms at some distance. The articles exposed in these markets for sale are generally very limited, consisting chiefly of provisions and articles necessary on the journey, such as kankie, roast beef, and elephants’ flesh, as well as boiled pork and goats’ flesh; and the following vegetables ready cooked, yams, manioc, and sometimes sweet potatoes. The native traveller may for a few cowries obtain refreshment at these places. Water is sold at these markets at a very high price, as well as peto.
At thirty-two miles, bearing north, the country is still open and level close to the base of the mountains, at this place distant eastward four miles, westward eight miles, and north twelve miles. At thirty-three miles we arrived at Setta Dean, so named after the family, or headman residing here as collector of the customs. This custom-house belongs to Mayho, the King of Dahomey’s prime minister. Here is a fine quadrangular court-yard, three sides of which are formed by a close broad hedge of various shrubs, with an outer hedge of the prickly bush, the remaining side composed of different apartments or huts, for the accommodation of the officers of customs, and also for carriers of goods, who may be weary and unable to proceed farther till recovered from their fatigue. Here is also a guard of soldiers, who perform similar duties to our police-officers in England, and afford protection to all goods deposited in their charge.
In this place we were again supplied with plenty of provision, water, and peto, and were desired to remain till the caboceer of Setta, a large town one mile farther, where we were to lodge for the night, should come and meet us, and take us into the town with military honours. My people were now all much fatigued after thirty-three miles march on a very narrow and rough path, and under a tropical sun, so that they were glad of the opportunity thus afforded them to obtain a little rest.
After remaining an hour, the approach of the caboceer of Setta and his soldiers was announced by the noise of their drums and horns, formed of small elephants’ teeth. My soldiers were now ordered again to fall in, in marching order, and to receive the caboceer, who in a short time afterwards entered the quadrangle, escorted by about two hundred well-armed soldiers. The troops were drawn up similar to our form of relieving guard. The caboceer, his captain, and other officers, advanced to the front till within four paces of the spot where I stood. They then prostrated themselves on the ground. Raising themselves to their knees, they remained in a kneeling posture, rubbing themselves over the head and arms with dust; and then again they stooped to kiss the dust in token of humiliation and submission to the King’s stranger, and Queen of England’s captain, as they called me.
After the usual complimentary palaver on such occasions, the caboceer and soldiers of Setta commenced dancing to their rude music. Their dances, however, are anything but what an Englishman would consider dancing, for they very seldom use their feet, but go through a number of fanciful movements, according to the taste of the individual performers. The principal movements are by throwing the shoulders backwards and forwards, in some degree resembling the gymnastic exercise used in drilling our English soldier in order to expand the chest, but much quicker. Another motion used by them, which is considered the most amusing in the dance, is a rotatory movement of the hips, changing to a backward and forward motion of a most disgusting description. After this party had performed their dance, my guard went through a similar dance.