Dinner-time had now arrived, and a messenger came to inform me that it was on the way to my house. After a few minutes a quantity of provisions exceeding that of the morning was placed before me in the same manner as before, and with the same ceremony as I have already described. I selected such dishes as I preferred for myself and people, and the rest were given to the soldiers. After dinner the caboceer sent his head messenger to ask if I would allow him to order a parade of his soldiers to dance before me for my amusement. Of course etiquette demanded my assent, but I postponed the honour till I had taken a survey of the town and its neighbourhood, and had made some observations upon its soil and productions. This proposal was readily assented to, and after I had dressed myself in uniform, I mounted my little charger, and rode round part of the town, accompanied by all my own private servants, except my own white servant, Maurice, who was still suffering from illness. During my ride I came in contact with the horse of the captain of my guard. My own as well as his being entire horses, made some desperate efforts to come in contact with one another, and I was obliged to punish mine severely with the spur, which caused him to plunge and kick violently. The people seemed very much astonished, and expressed their admiration of the white man’s horsemanship.
Horses are not bred in this country, consequently very few of the natives ever saw a horse, except at Dahomey, whither a few are sent as presents to his Majesty. The rider is invariably held on the animal’s back by two men, who walk on each side. After I had taken a survey of the town, which occupied about an hour and a half, I returned to the market-place, where I found all my own soldiers (with the exception of those who had accompanied me) as also the soldiers of Setta: the market-place being comfortably shaded from the sun by large trees, gave the assemblage a very imposing appearance.
I now dismounted, and sent my horse to the stable. A seat having been prepared for me, I took my position by the side of my captain, the soldiers of Setta commencing the amusement by dancing of the most singular description; the motion being chiefly, as before described, from the hips and shoulders—an excellent gymnastic exercise, and well calculated to strengthen the limbs and expand the chest. After a few awkward leaps they were formed up, and ordered to charge; upon which an irregular rush was made in the direction of a supposed enemy. During this operation an irregular fire was kept up, with shouts or yells. They then suddenly returned, each soldier bringing with him a bough or a handful of grass, and laying the same at the feet of the caboceer or captain. These are considered as heads cut off their enemies in the charge with the short sword, which is carried by all soldiers, as well as a musket. My guard now took their turn in the dance, and went through the same manœuvres as the former. After this, both parties sat down pretty well tired. I then distributed a quantity of rum amongst the caboceers and headmen, to give amongst their people, which was received with shouts in my praise.
I could not help strongly contrasting the different dispositions of the people here and those on the coast. The people of this country are governed by good laws, and although to Europeans they may appear very stringent, yet they are quite necessary to govern a savage people. After my friends had drank my health, and I had returned the compliment, I went back to my quarters, where I found my white man Maurice a little recovered, but still obliged to lie down.
Again I was visited by all the head people of Setta, many of whom asked me very shrewd questions respecting England, our trade and manufactures. The extent of our shipping, and our power on the ocean, seemed to surprise them most of anything. Of this they had a previous knowledge, from visiting Dahomey, and no doubt, heard there of the capture by us of so many slavers. In a short time supper arrived. My visitors remained with me until a late hour, when I was glad to go to rest.
The town of Setta is situated on a gently rising ground, commanding a view to a great distance in all directions. The soil is a rich loam of a clay colour. Corn is grown here in abundance, and of various sorts; ginger is also cultivated here. The country abounds with game, partridges, and Guinea fowl. Cattle here are very good, and numerous in proportion to what I observed on the coast. Sheep and goats are here also in abundance. The domestic fowls are the Guinea fowl, common fowl, and Muscovy duck, as well as the common duck of England. Pigeons are generally found in great abundance in all the towns and villages. The caboceer of Setta is a very fine man in person, about six feet in height, and well formed, and with good features and a pleasing expression. Before leaving his town he presented me with a very fine bullock.
Setta contains about nine thousand inhabitants. Their worship is pagan, but they are not at all prejudiced against any other religion. They manufacture the earthenware which they use in this place. The town is surrounded by a clay wall about the height of seven feet only and three feet thick.
FOOTNOTES:
[20] The paths are so narrow in most instances as only to admit of one foot at a time, and are sometimes two feet deep.
END OF VOL. I.