The articles sold in the market are much the same as those exposed for sale in Whydah, which I have previously enumerated, with the exception of European manufactured goods: these, however, are very limited, tobacco and rum being the principal articles. In addition to these, I only observed a few very common plaid cotton handkerchiefs. Good cloth is manufactured here, and sold in the market, but manufacture even seems to be monopolized by the caboceer of Baffo, for, on my treating with a weaver for the purchase of a piece of cloth, he was obliged to consult the caboceer whether he might dispose of it at the price I offered him, which, after some higgling, was agreed to. The whole of the inhabitants of this town are literally slaves, but live in peace and plenty ever since their subjection to the King of Dahomey.
About eleven o’clock, my friend, Kpatchie, and his young Dahoman attendant, came again to visit me, bringing with him about thirty persons, carrying provisions for myself and people. This act of kindness proceeded, undoubtedly, from his own generosity, independent of the order of the King. The old gentleman seemed delighted at having an opportunity of testifying his good feelings towards a white man, but this kindness on his part seemed to create a considerable degree of jealousy between the two caboceers, Agassadoo and Kpatchie, so much so that high words ensued.
Although no preparation was made for our dinner, for I had remained at Baffo one day longer than was expected by the King, I was amused with the contemptuous manner exhibited towards Agassadoo by my venerable friend. He begged me not to rely on any of his (Agassadoo’s) promises, as he was only a man of words, and of too much palaver to be good. This certainly was correct, but the wordy war soon terminated, Kpatchie being senior, and principal caboceer of the range of mountains on which Baffo is situated.
A reconciliation having been effected, I honoured them both by inviting them to dine with me, which was the first time I had ever done so since I had left Abomey. This seemed to give great satisfaction to both parties, and their differences seemed mutually forgotten. After dinner we went out shooting. I shot several birds of various descriptions on the top of the steep rock, which almost overhangs Baffo. I observed a great number of small animals, somewhat like the rabbits of Great Britain. When I expressed a great wish to ascend the pass, which is very steep and dangerous, I was strongly dissuaded from attempting it, it being declared to be quite impracticable, except to some of the most daring of the huntsmen. I was consequently obliged to satisfy myself with remaining at the foot to pursue my sport.
Game is very plentiful here, such as Guinea-fowl of various species, some jet-black and very large, others of a lighter colour, some horned and others not. Partridges are large and abundant; the male of one species is armed with four spurs, two upon each leg, nearly three-quarters of an inch apart, and in length according to their age. Pigeons of various sorts are also abundant, but the most numerous is the turtle-dove, which is here more domesticated than any other, except the common house-pigeon. The turtle-doves always take up their resting-place in towns or villages. The wood-pigeon is also abundant, but very wild. I observed another species, of a green and yellow colour, with a red ring round the neck about half an inch in diameter, and without feathers, the surface much resembling morocco leather. The natives have a very efficient mode of trapping these pigeons.
A little circumstance took place here, perhaps not unworthy of narration, respecting one of the last-named pigeons. This pigeon had been caught in a trap, and one of my young soldiers, anxious to elevate himself in my estimation, caught a pigeon, and, in order to make it appear that he had shot it, destroyed part of the head before presenting it to me, but of course I was quite aware that this was not true. This was the same young man who had on a former occasion, as I have previously related, procured a Guinea-fowl, and made a hole through the neck, declaring that, although he always used ball, he shot his birds through the neck. I now set him a task which gave him a damper. Taking a small piece of white paper, wetting it, and sticking it on the side of a rock, at twenty yards distance, I asked him to shoot at that mark; which he did, but it was nowhere near the paper. This very much chagrined not only himself, but the whole of his companions, who declared that the bullet had tumbled out before firing. I determined, however, to prove to him that it was not so easy a matter as he supposed to deceive an Englishman, and therefore gave him another chance, by shooting at the same piece of paper stuck against a palm-tree. This he also missed, as well as the tree. The caboceer seemed much annoyed lest I should consider the huntsman a fair specimen of their skill. He therefore desired me to shoot, thinking probably that I might be an equally bad shot; but I was fortunate enough to hit part of the paper, and of course the bullet entered the tree, which created some considerable surprise amongst the soldiers who accompanied me.
Upon our return to the town we found a fine dog lying on the ground, apparently just killed. He was very much swollen, particularly one of his fore-legs. I made inquiry of the owner respecting the cause of its death, and was told that, while visiting his farm at some short distance on the plain, a large snake came in contact with the dog, and in the conflict bit the dog in the fore-arm. The venom caused death in about a quarter of an hour afterwards. The dog died within two hundred yards of its home. Serpents are said to be very numerous and extremely venomous here, but I have not seen any of the serpent tribe since I left Whydah.
Upon my return to my quarters I found my servant Maurice apparently worse, and in very low spirits. He had hitherto expressed a wish not to be left, but to proceed with me on my journey. This, of course, in his present state, it would have been folly to allow him to do. I proposed, therefore, that if he were not much better in the morning, to leave him a few days, till I returned from the town of Whagba, for which place I intended to march. This the poor fellow consented to. He was now suffering much from dysentery, and his illness had every appearance of terminating fatally.
In the evening I was visited by one of the caboceer’s wives, who was introduced to me as the principal cook, and who had presided at the cooking of my food. This, of course, was a very broad hint that I should not forget her when distributing presents. Several of the caboceer’s younger wives, who seemed very anxious to flirt when an opportunity presented itself, came to make inquiry after the health of my servant, but their real motive was to obtain a glass of rum, for they knew that I had arranged to depart on the following morning. The caboceer, Agassadoo, importuned for every thing that met his eye, though he took special care not to do so when the caboceer or captain of my guard was present.