At twenty miles we reached the beautiful town of Whagba. About a mile and a half from the town we were met by the fine venerable caboceer and his attendants, who paid us every mark of respect, and drank water and then rum with us, his soldiers keeping up a continual fire, and beating their drums the whole distance into the town. The town of Whagba is fenced round with the prickly bush, which forms a hedge of about twenty yards wide. After passing through this outer fence, and about one hundred yards distant, is another wall, with strong gates, outside of which is the general market-place for strangers. Immediately inside is the principal town-market, which is held twice every week. Inside is another wall of hard clay, or swish, with still stronger gates. Upon entering the town I was met by ten of the trading merchants from Abomey, who gave me a hearty welcome.

The natives of this town seem a very mild and are apparently a more independent people, being less servile to their caboceer, than in any of the Mahee towns I have yet visited, although the caboceer seems much revered and esteemed. In the town I found excellent accommodation, the caboceer having some time previously to my arrival been made aware of my intention to visit him, consequently no trouble was spared to make me comfortable when I arrived. A fine house had been run up in the space of a fortnight for my accommodation, built square, and of two stories, with a ladder outside to ascend to the second story, quite unusual in any other towns except Abomey. The walls were yet a little damp, though the heat is so great.

Soon after my arrival, we were, as usual, supplied with plenty of provisions and also abundance of peto. After having refreshed ourselves, we were honoured by a visit from the caboceer and his retinue, with whom we entered freely into conversation. It appeared that he was a great favourite with the King of Dahomey, consequently he was vested with considerable power beyond what is generally allowed to any of the caboceers I had yet visited, except Kpatchie, of Zoglogbo. The caboceer of Whagba was like a petty king or ruler over several minor towns in the neighbourhood, within a circle of twenty miles. He was also allowed to govern his town at his own discretion as far as regards their domestic laws or customs, but their criminal laws were strictly Dahoman.

Sunday, July 20th.—A caboceer arrived from a town named Teo, at some distance from Whagba, named Athrimy. He brought several people with him, both head men and slaves, and with them about ten bushels of ready cooked provisions, and also one fine bull for the King of Dahomey, and another for myself. The caboceer, Athrimy, seemed much gratified in having an opportunity of shewing his loyalty to his sovereign by presenting me, the King’s stranger, and my people, with provisions gratis; although, of course, I gave them several articles of European manufacture in return.

This caboceer, as well as the ruler of Whagba, seemed to take great pleasure in making inquiries respecting England, our gracious sovereign, and our laws. They remained in conversation with me full three hours, their principal men being also present. Both of them seemed amused and astonished. After our palaver was finished, the guard of soldiers who accompanied Athrimy, musketeers and bowmen, all commenced their native war-dance. Then my Dahoman guards performed their dance. Afterwards, as is customary on such occasions, I presented the caboceers and head men with some rum, which at all times is very readily accepted; although in Dahomey a drunkard is much despised, and even punished, unless the party should be one of the King’s jesters, of whom his Majesty keeps a considerable number.

Many of the caboceers in the Mahee country, as well as on the coast, consider the greatest proof of their riches and power to consist in their having the means of getting intoxicated at least once every day. The caboceer Athrimy had heard of my entering the names of some of the caboceers and head men of Dahomey in my book, and requested, as a great favour, that his own name and those of his head men might be inserted in my book, deeming this to be the highest honour which could possibly be conferred upon them. As the enumeration of the names, therefore, may be of service to future travellers (since nothing will secure the confidence and friendship of these Africans more surely than the fact of a stranger visiting their country and inquiring for any of them), I here set them down.

After entering the names of the principals they determined upon giving me a puzzler, by desiring me to call the roll of the names I had already entered, and when each name had been called, and each individual had answered to his name, they all seemed quite amazed, expressing their conviction that white man was equal to their great fetish in knowledge and power. Their names were as follows:—

1. Kpaloo.
2. Damossee.
3. Kawpnhoo.
4. Chassoo.
5. Koothay.
6. Bosa.
7. Kossau Maboo.
8. Semanoo.
9. Koyakway.
10. Dadamy.[8]
11. Baadoo.
12. Dyahoo.
13. Wayhee, the caboceer’s principal or favourite wife.

Soon after this ceremony my friends departed, returning me a thousand thanks for the presents which I had given them, and hoping that I would soon again visit their country.

I then went out to visit the various krooms in the vicinity of Whagba, which were numerous. I took my gun with me, as partridges are very plentiful here, and very large. My people were very much delighted at seeing me shoot the first one flying. The body of the partridge is nearly as heavy as the English pheasant. The turtle-dove is also abundant here, as also the wood-pigeon (exactly similar to those in England,) and the house-pigeon. Many other sorts of pigeons are also found here of various plumage—green body, yellow and blueish green wings, with a red circle round the eyes. The crown-bird is here domesticated, and the vulture and eagle are also abundant, as well as several other birds of prey. I here observed several bulbous plants, bearing a beautiful flower, not before noticed in my travels.