In rainy weather the market, except for cattle, is held under the piazzas in front of the houses, which are very low, but as they always sit cross-legged, or lie down by their goods, they experience no inconvenience from the lowness of their dwellings. Honey is abundant here, but as dark in colour as molasses. The hives are generally taken in the hollow trunks of trees, when the honey is pressed from the comb, consequently it is not of the finest quality. A great quantity of peto is made here also, and sold in the market at a very low rate. When made strong, this liquor is very intoxicating, particularly as it is drunk in a state of fermentation.
After a short interview with the caboceer, during which he questioned me as to my purpose in visiting his country, I was asked to partake of some peto, which stood in immensely large earthen pots, made in the form of the bottle-gourd, from which, doubtless, they have taken their pattern. In reply to his questions I said, that my object was to ascertain what trade could be done in this part of the country in the event of my coming next time with a large quantity of goods. This, I knew, would please him, and he assured me that I should certainly get rid of any quantity I might bring. I told him, that after I had seen Terrasso-weea, I should return, and bring plenty of goods to his mart. I was very well aware I should easily get rid of any quantity of goods if I brought them, but in all probability at their own price. I knew, however, that this would be the safest excuse I could make. I asked the price of slaves, and was immediately shown a number of male and female slaves, varying in price from forty-six thousand to forty-nine thousand cowries.
After receiving orders for different articles on my return, I resumed my journey, having presented the caboceer with a pair of scissors and a few needles. At twenty miles, we crossed the brook Ithay. Here I found good water, running eastward over a gravelly bed. The country was level, and now more gravelly, containing a considerable quantity of iron. The soil was less rich, though crops of corn were very abundant. The valley forming the source of the brook Ithay was richly shaded with large trees of luxurious growth.
At twenty-eight miles, we arrived at the large town of Assofoodah. Here we were also received with much apparent suspicion. It was now getting late, and I felt much anxiety to see the caboceer or king, to obtain a hut to sleep in. We were very tired, and though we had eaten a considerable quantity of corn as we passed along, still my people, as well as myself, were a good deal exhausted, and in want of more substantial food.
After considerable delay, the caboceer came to the outer gate of the town, attended by a number of bowmen and spearmen. He advanced with a slow, firm step, with a stern, suspicious frown upon his features. My poor fellows, who could speak English, remarked how different our treatment was when under the protection of the noble King of Dahomey, as compared with our present reception. However, this was not a time to humble ourselves, and I therefore determined to assume great consequence, though I was not now in possession of one single cowrie. I stood by my horse’s head, with folded arms, and assumed as much consequence as if the place were my own. When within about ten paces, the caboceer made a sudden halt, his head men prostrating themselves, and at the same time asking what I wanted with their master, whom they styled king.
Upon this I replied, through my interpreter, that I had come to pay him a visit, and also for the purpose of trading with them. Though no further remark was made by them, there seemed something incredulous in his manner; and the whole of his people seemed distant and suspicious. I felt, consequently, much inclined to leave the town, and encamp for the night in the bush; but, upon a second consideration, I thought if any evil were premeditated towards us, it would be more likely to be put into execution if we were out of the town than when under the protection of the King. I therefore sent a messenger to ask him if he could accommodate us with a hut to shelter us, as it was now raining fast. But he had already observed the sudden approach of the tornado, and had gone to order a hut for our accommodation. This was at some distance, and we were led through small doors from one court-yard into another.
After passing through several court-yards, I was told that my horse could proceed no farther, and must remain where it then was. This I did not at all relish. The objection made was that the doorways were too low; whereupon, I ordered the saddle to be taken off, and the poor animal, bending itself down, passed through the whole of the low doorways, through which I could scarcely thrust myself.
At last we arrived at a tolerably comfortable court-yard, of a quadrangular form, one side of which was occupied by large stones for grinding corn. Here a number of good-looking young females were busily employed in grinding. Upon my entry, the most ridiculous confusion ensued; no retreat was ever more precipitate; one young girl pushing down and running over another, children screaming, even the dogs running, howling with fear, and upsetting pots of provision, or anything which stood in their way. By this time I was wet through, and very glad when shown my hut, which was quite dark, having no opening to admit of light except the door-way, which was little more than three feet high. We were shortly afterwards furnished with some wood to make a fire, but we had nothing to cook. I endeavoured to bargain for some fowls in exchange for needles or thimbles, but, although they seemed to covet every thing they saw, money was their only object, and, though Mahomedans, this seemed their god. We were consequently obliged to satisfy ourselves with roasting the heads of boiled corn which we still retained in our havresacks. One young lad engaged to procure me plenty of grass and corn-leaves for my horse for some needles, which I readily agreed to. He was so much satisfied with his wages, that I easily engaged him to procure some old corn for my horse also. He said his mother had got a large corn-store, but I found what he considered a large store did not exceed fifty or sixty bushels.
He soon returned with plenty of corn for my horse, and a fresh supply of needles seemed to give him great satisfaction. In a short time my hut was crowded with boys, each with a bundle of wet grass, thinking that they would obtain needles in payment. When I told them that the first supply was sufficient, they declared, to my no small amusement, that they thought I myself ate grass. Whether this was their real belief, or whether merely to obtain money, I am not able to determine, but I should suppose the latter. After a short time, the affrighted ladies returned to their employment, and were with others soon induced to come to the door of my hut. Some of the boldest of the crowd ventured to come into my hut, importuning me for dashes (presents), and shortly afterwards made free enough to endeavour to examine the contents of our havresacks; but by a stern look, and placing my hand at the same time on the hilt of my sword, they made a hasty retreat.
In about an hour afterwards, the king or chief returned to my quarters, and some of his attendants brought a small quantity of shea-butter to trim my lamp afresh. He asked me if I had any tobacco, or if I had any knives. Having a few small pocket-knives, I made him a present of one and some Jew’s harps. We kept a light the greater part of the night, during which time many parties came to look at me. This was annoying, as I so much required rest, and had an unsatisfied appetite. It was a bad season of the year for yams, which were not yet ripe, and in this country too they are of inferior quality, and very insipid, being water yams.