A singular form exists in passing by this establishment. All persons must walk past on their bare feet, or if they wear sandals, they must take them off while they pass; and if riding on horseback, or carried in any other way, they must dismount and walk; nor must they look back till quite past the prescribed mark, when the passersby are again allowed to mount and proceed. All traders carrying a certain quantity of goods are obliged to pay a toll or duty, which goes towards the support of this establishment. Any evasion or breach of these rules is punished by flagellation and forfeiture of the whole of the goods in their possession. We were not allowed to enter, but every inquiry respecting the establishment was answered; but whether the account given was true or false, I am unable to determine.
The inmates are permitted to work at their trade, whatever it may be, and are allowed the price of their labour, besides their subsistence while they are within the walls. They are constantly attended by priests, who visit the towns and markets within a certain distance, and there levy contributions upon all articles of consumption, as well as a duty which they demand upon cloths and ornaments, for the support of their establishment. No doubt a great share of this sort of plunder falls to themselves. Our company of trading-women left us here.
After partaking of some refreshment we again marched. No man could experience more anxiety than I did myself during this part of my journey; for the next town we reached would decide the success of the object I had in view. Many were the doubts and fears that assailed me. Sometimes I thought Terrasso-weea might have gone on, and have taken another direction; and again, even if he were there, perhaps my information at Abomey respecting Mungo Park might be incorrect, and Terrasso-weea might know nothing of the circumstances about which I was interested. At other times my spirits were buoyed up with the idea of seeing the white man, as he was represented to be. But, again, the thought of returning to Dahomey, and of incurring the King’s displeasure, who had been my best friend, and perhaps, also, of being instrumental in causing the caboceer of my guard, an excellent man, to lose his head, oppressed me. However, to balance this trouble, I had the consolation of having visited a country which I should not otherwise have seen; for even if I should survive the climate and dangers incident to travellers in so barbarous a country, I might not again have an opportunity of visiting it.
While thus absorbed in varied reflections I had forgotten my sand-glass, by which I measured the distance we marched, but my poor fellows had been long accustomed to call out the number of quarters, or glasses, which I caused every man to do aloud immediately after myself. My glass was of a very simple construction. I took two small phials, which had contained peppermint essence, which had been given to me by an American captain. I measured my sand by time; then, when I had ascertained the proper quantity, I poured out the remainder from the opposite phial, and again secured the piece of tin between the mouths of the phials, sealing them both together hermetically, and fixing them lengthwise into a piece of palm stem, hollowed out on one side, leaving one side of the phials exposed. This allowed me to observe when the glass was run out. The moment we halted any where I slipped the string, which was attached to each end, and hung about my neck, a little round, so as to place the glasses in a horizontal position, and stop their running until I again commenced marching.
On our journey we overtook numbers of people, the female portion of whom were all heavily laden with goods for the market of Adofoodia. Some we met returning, who had already been there and disposed of their goods. Even these people were aware of our coming, and informed us that the King had told his people that I should be there some time in the forenoon. This was considered by his subjects as an act of great condescension on his part, as affording them an opportunity of seeing a white man—a sight they had never witnessed.
At twenty-eight miles we arrived at the anxiously-wished-for town of Adofoodia, which is situated on a dry healthy plain, with a rich red soil, the surface of a sandy nature, as if it had been carried over the surface by water, at some remote period. We were met by the King and his principal men, at a little distance from the outer gates. This town is unlike many others; for it is not fenced with the prickly bush I have before mentioned, though it is partially enclosed by clumps of large shrubs, mixed with cotton and palm-trees.
The town is surrounded by a very thick clay wall, about eighteen feet high. The outer market is held in a large open space on the left after entering the southern gate. It is shaded with large trees, having leaves measuring nine inches across, and about twelve in length. As soon as we entered the market thousands came running anxious to see us, which would inevitably have caused great confusion, had royal power not been exercised to maintain order. We had already told the King our principal object in visiting his country. He had the courtesy immediately to take us to that part of the market (which was some distance) where Terrasso-weea had his goods laid out on large square pieces of carpet, evidently of European manufacture, though of a pattern I had never before seen.
At a few yards from this spot we were desired to halt, and the King’s chief messenger was sent forward to acquaint Terrasso-weea with our arrival. However, he had been already made aware of the fact, and had retired to his quarters to change his tobe. The messenger soon arrived, accompanied by Terrasso-weea, who prostrated himself before the King, who was on my right and a little in advance. The King politely informed him that he had taken upon himself to introduce to him a stranger who had come to see him from a far country. Whereupon the merchant again prostrated himself and kissed the ground. Then he arose and walked slowly towards me, holding out his hand with a smile of satisfaction beaming in his venerable countenance. He said he was truly happy to see me. It was, he said, the second time he had seen a white man in the course of his life. The merchant took from a leather wallet, or spohran, hanging in front of his dress, similar to that of a Highlander of Scotland, a small book written in Persian-Arabic. From this he read some form of welcome. He then begged the King’s leave to depart, which his Majesty, with every show of politeness, agreed to, at the same time remarking that it was his right to have the first of my company, being the principal object of my journey. After a little time he should certainly claim the privilege of a palaver with the white man.
We were then desired by the merchant to follow him. He first led us to his stalls in the market, by the side of one of which was seated, cross-legged, a dark swarthy man, but not much darker than some of the Spaniards residing at Whydah. I was struck with the expression and quick intelligent eye of this man, and could not help fancying that I had seen the same individual at some previous period. The man eyed me for some minutes with great interest, and at last suddenly advanced towards me, holding out both his hands, and clasping his arms round waist.
I did not much relish this sort of embrace from a stranger; but, by his expression, I could observe that the salute was friendly. He then passed his hands down each side, pressing my person gently, in a similar manner to the searchers in the docks. Then he explained himself, to my great though agreeable surprise. He proved to be a merchant whom I met with when we were at the town of Egga with the late unfortunate Niger expedition. He was then accompanied by another man, and was on a trading tour from Rabba, attending the market at Egga. I was invited by the malaam of Egga to dine with him, for he invites all strangers to take refreshment. It was in his house that I met these two individuals, who seemed quite delighted to meet me. They stated themselves to be natives of Tripoli.