CHAPTER IX.
Enter Logazohy in Regimentals—Received by the Caboceer, attended by his Soldiers—Singular Mode of Dancing—Native Jester—Description of the Town—Corn Mills—Presents from Fetish-women—Agriculture—Prevalent Diseases—A disgusting Case of Leprosy—Quarrel among my Carriers—My Illness—The Damadomy—Trees, Shrubs—The Agbado—Rapid Construction of a Suspension Bridge by my Dahoman Guards—Savalu—Reception by the Caboceer—Picturesque Situation of the Town—Caboceer’s House—His Wives—His Jester—My Illness.
Previous to my leaving Abomey for the Mahee country, the King expressed a desire that I should either enter the town, (where it might be arranged for me to remain all night,) in regimentals; or if more convenient to me, dress in them on the following morning, and proceed a short distance out of the town, going through a formal reception by the caboceer and head men. Accordingly, it was arranged that I should remain one day for that purpose, and about ten o’clock, all being ready, I, together with all my retinue, marched out of the town to the distance of about half a mile, in the same direction as we entered. We then countermarched, and were met by Chaou and head men, with his guard of about eighty soldiers, armed with muskets and short swords. As they advanced, a constant fire was kept up till within a few yards of us. Then both parties halted; upon which the usual prostration and palaver of welcome were as minutely observed as if he had not before seen us. We afterwards drank water with each other, and then rum of a very indifferent quality. Both parties then alternately went through their exercise of attack and defence. Their mode of skirmishing is all by stealth upon the enemy, and their charge is a wild disorderly rush, without any line being preserved. Each soldier upon his return brings with him a tuft of grass, or a piece of a bough of some description, to represent a head which he is supposed to have just cut off.
We then advanced to the town, where we formed up in the market-place. Here each party alternately kept up what they called dancing, and drinking rum and peto for about an hour. Their motion in dancing is unlike that of any other country with which I am acquainted. They never use their legs, except when making some extraordinary leap to change their front in another direction, their principal motion being in the hips and shoulders, which are thrown backwards and forwards in rapid motion; sometimes their movements are, to any civilized being, of a very disgusting nature.
During this ceremony the market-place was crowded with spectators, who seemed quite delighted with the performance. Each caboceer invariably keeps a clown, who is selected according to his powers of humour, many of them displaying considerable talent. At last a messenger came to signify to Chaou that dinner was prepared for us, when we retired to our houses, where we found not only an extravagant quantity of provision, supplied by the caboceer, but also by the same merchants who had already been so liberal. We were also supplied with a large quantity of peto.
After dinner I took a survey of the town, which for regularity and neatness surpassed most of those I had yet visited in the Mahee country. It is strongly fenced, has an inner wall, and a large outer and inner market, well supplied with native produce and manufactures. Rats, mice, and the guano are also sold in greater abundance for consumption than in any other place I had seen. This was the first town in which I observed any regularity or form of manufactory.
In the principal square, which was entirely occupied by the caboceer and retinue, nearly one side was occupied by corn-mills, where a number of very handsome young female slaves were employed grinding corn. About two yards distant, behind where the grinders were employed, was a line of fires, parallel to the line of mills; each fire was attended by a cook and an assistant. The whole was covered in with a roof neatly thatched. The side of the building facing the square was open like a shed.
During the greater part of the afternoon I was beset with visitors, bringing some trifling articles as presents, amongst whom were many fetish-women, who brought me some eggs. These women are licensed beggars, sanctioned by royalty, and possess great influence amongst the people. They attend all public markets, and are entirely supported by contributions, which are liberally bestowed from a dread of offending them. The old caboceer, Chaou, paid me a visit, and earnestly inquired if I could prescribe any medicine for a severe cough which much annoyed him. He said that some of my soldiers told him I could cure all diseases. I gave him a few colocinth and calomel pills, knowing that he would not feel satisfied without something in the shape of medicine,—in return for which he gave me a young bull.
The land here is well cultivated, and bears excellent crops near the town. The rocks are of granite, and singularly twisted and stratified horizontally, with scarcely any dip, in sections of pure white, resembling alum.
Leprosy as well as small-pox appear to be the most prevalent diseases here. The town of Logazohy contains eight or nine thousand inhabitants. The cattle are handsome and numerous, with the exception of pigs, which had lately suffered much from a disease resembling the small-pox. Very few are now left in the country.