At fifteen miles, we again crossed the river Zoka, which at this place runs S.W., twenty yards wide, with rocky bottom. Here we were detained upwards of two hours, in endeavouring to obtain a canoe, but as they are generally kept at a great distance from the paths, it takes several hours to bring them to the place of crossing. In this instance, however, we were totally defeated, for my messengers returned with tidings that the canoe was broken, so that we had no other method of getting across except by swimming. The stream at this place was very rapid, consequently I deemed it prudent, not to swim across on horseback, but put on my life-preserver (an American one). Unfortunately it burst, and was of no use to me, but rather entangled me; and I was consequently carried a considerable distance obliquely down the stream. However, I landed safely on some rocks on the opposite side, but in doing so struck my knee against a rock, cutting a portion of skin off as well as bruising it.
My next object was to get my luggage across, now much diminished both in bulk and weight. I caused some poles, which were growing in abundance on the banks, to be cut into lengths and lashed together, in the form of a raft. In a piece of rag torn from the flap of my linen, I tied two bullets, attaching them to the end of a ball of sewing twine, which was loosely placed in a coil to prevent its getting entangled. The two bullets were then attached to a stouter piece of string, about one yard in length, used to sling them across the river. After the bullets were thrown across I pulled the twine over, to which a line of about the substance of a clothes’ line was fixed, the other end of which was fastened to the raft. This was placed on the water a considerable distance above the landing-place, so as to allow for the current. Two boxes were placed on the raft, and when ready I pulled them across. This method was repeated until the whole of my luggage, as well as that of my officers, was safely landed.
By this time the greater part of my people had swam across also, but my horse still remained. It was also fastened to the end of the raft line and soon crossed the stream, but when it reached the opposite bank, which was nearly perpendicular and the water deep, the poor animal could not obtain a footing. A number of people pulled it by the halter, till the headstall gave way. The poor beast, already considerably exhausted from exertion, now made again for the other side, where it narrowly escaped being carried over a cataract formed of rocks a little below the place of crossing. To my great satisfaction, however, the noble little animal arrived safely on the opposite bank, shook itself, and neighed, looking across as if conscious of its being on the wrong side. The little fellow was again haltered with stronger material, and was launched into the river.
I now placed myself at a part of the bank close to a small creek, where it reached me without difficulty, being lower down the stream. I at once saddled him, and resumed our journey.
I ought to have mentioned the gallant manner in which my caboceer and head men’s wives took the water. They did not even require the raft to carry their luggage across, the whole of which was contained in large gourd calabashes, about two feet and a half diameter. These vessels were guided across with one hand, while the other was used in swimming. Immediately after crossing the river, it commenced raining very heavily, and continued to do so for several hours.
The road was now extremely rough and bad, and the path so narrow and worn by the heavy rains washing away the soil and leaving the rough iron-stone and large roots crossing at short distances, as to render the march extremely fatiguing. Many of my poor fellows had their feet sadly bruised and cut. Having had several attacks of fever, I found myself considerably weaker within the last few days, and the wound on my leg daily enlarged and got in a very bad state. Being compelled to walk during the greater part of the latter end of this day, I felt more fatigued than I had ever done during the whole of my long journey, though many of them had been much longer. We crossed several glens and brooks, with very steep rocky banks, which no English horse would have even attempted, but so sure-footed are these Badagry horses, that the little fellow scrambled over all without any serious accident. In one instance, while climbing a smooth-surfaced granite rock, it slipped from nearly the top to the bottom, where it crushed one of the holsters and broke a girth, but it remained uninjured; however, it courageously made a second attempt, in which it succeeded.
Owing to the road being so bad, we could make but slow progress; we were consequently benighted, and from the cloudy atmosphere the night was extremely dark. At last I became reckless, and blundered along with little or no caution, over rocks, through water, and over large roots, till about ten o’clock, when we came in sight of the lights of the town of Jallakoo. We had only made twenty-four miles during the whole of this long day. Jallakoo, like Savalu, was without walls or any fence.
After crossing the Savalu mountains, I was again in the original kingdom of Dahomey, Jallakoo being the first Dahoman town in that direction. We were met at the entrance in the principal market-place by the old caboceer and his deputy who transacted all his official affairs. The caboceer was apparently upwards of ninety years of age. This venerable patriarch was determined to receive me with all the usual formality, and I was consequently (although I felt completely exhausted, as well as all my people) requested to dress myself in my uniform, and so enter the town. Fortunately, my appointments (epaulets and helmet) were tolerably clean, and had a very good effect by torch-light. Their torches are made of a very peculiar sort of wood, which when split into strips burns very brightly. These are sometimes smeared with the shea-butter.
After entering the town, we were conducted to an inner market-place, where we again halted to go through all the tedious ceremony of a Dahoman reception. This I could very willingly have dispensed with, for I now began to feel very uncomfortable, my under-clothing being completely saturated with the heavy rain of the afternoon, which had now ceased. I also felt very sensibly an inclination to ague, which was considerably advanced by being put into a new house, the walls and thatch of which were quite green and open on three sides, which were merely borne on wooden pillars, for they had been informed that I did not like close or dark lodgings. I put up the little tent which I had constructed inside of the house; and a bedstead of bamboo with a rush mattress, which made an excellent bed, having been prepared for me, I was placed inside of it, and a strong fire immediately kindled close to me. I then ordered some gruel to be made of native meal, with which I took a strong dose of James’s powder and opium, and in a short time the ague ceased, but was immediately followed by a burning fever with intolerable thirst. I drank about half a pint of water every five minutes, till at last the perspiration became so copious, that I felt almost as wet as when in the rain. After this, I felt much easier, and through the powerful influence of the opium I passed a night of pleasant and happy dreams, which, on awaking, I sincerely regretted I could not realize. The caboceer, however, declared his night had been anything but comfortable or refreshing, for he said I had been groaning and talking nearly the whole of it, which had much alarmed him. I felt so considerably weakened from the violence of the attack, and from such copious perspiration, and the stupifying effects of the opium, that I was scarcely able to stand on my legs. I rallied, however, and determined to resist as much as possible the powerful influence of the fever, and with a little assistance I walked a few times round the yard, in the centre of which was a fine large spring well, in the solid rock, with excellent water. Of this I took a copious draught, which considerably refreshed me.
In a short time the aged caboceer, Nokoomakay, sent twenty large calabashes, filled with provision, ready cooked for our breakfast; and immediately afterwards his deputy, Adyamee, sent me thirty-two more dishes. They both expressed regret that I should suffer from sickness while in their country, but assured me that nothing should be wanting on the part of their fetish-men and women in making intercession with the great Fetish for my immediate recovery, and also expressed their readiness to supply me with any thing necessary for my comfort. After this they retired till we should finish our breakfast, when the deputy caboceer again paid me a visit; and though they both knew I was so ill, begged that I would favour them with a visit to the old man’s house in my regimentals and on horseback. Upon remonstrating, I found that my refusal was likely to create dissatisfaction, especially as his messenger arrived to inform me that at a council of fetish-men they had come to the conclusion that I should speedily recover from my present indisposition.