The poor old man seemed much pleased when I assured him that I was as glad to see him, as if he had been the richest caboceer in the Dahoman kingdom. He replied, “White man must be good man, for black man don’t want to see poor caboceer.” I presented him with a piece of cloth and some little articles of hardware, which appeared to give him great satisfaction. I also gave each of his head men some trifling presents.
They were conscious of their master’s poverty, but seemed anxious to assist him as much as possible, for they sent me, in the caboceer’s name, twenty-three very large calabashes, filled with provision; so that with several smaller presents from some of the principal inhabitants, myself and people were amply supplied with every thing necessary. During the evening we were visited by great numbers of the inhabitants, who seemed much gratified with an opportunity of seeing a white man.
August 23d.—Early in the morning my host paid me the usual morning visit, bringing me a few choice dishes for my own breakfast, and also a present of one goat, several fowls, one large African duck, and a number of rare pigeons with feathered legs and toes, and ten large dishes of provision for my soldiers. Soon after breakfast we marched for Doko, accompanied for a short distance by the caboceer and head-men, attended by about twenty of his soldiers, who kept up an irregular firing of muskets as far as they accompanied us.
After leaving the town the distance of three miles, the road again became very bad, and my little horse lost one of its shoes, and soon began to show its loss. However, this day’s journey was a very short one, and we marched at a very rapid rate, which, in short journeys, we always found less fatiguing than marching at a slow rate, and remaining long on foot, exposed to the sun. At twelve miles we arrived at Doko, where we were met by the caboceer and his elder brother, the caboceer of Whydah, who had remained at Abomey ever since I had left that capital for the Mahee and Fellattah country. He had been sent this stage to meet me by order of his Majesty.
The caboceer of Whydah is called the avoga, or captain, caboceer of white men, which accounts for his being sent instead of Mayho, to meet me. He being an excellent fellow, I felt much gratification in thus unexpectedly meeting him. Awassoo, the caboceer of Doko, having already been acquainted with my intended visit, had prepared dinner for myself and party, which consisted of twenty-two large dishes of provision. The avoga had also brought with him plenty of liquors of different descriptions, which were very freely distributed among the people. I was now considerable recovered from the effects of my fever, so that I could take part in their merriment and jest. My guard were now near home, and, although two days before, the poor fellows were worn out with fatigue and foot-sore, they were now all life and jollity over their peto-pots, in which they indulged very freely. Merriment was kept up till a late hour, and this being a small town, nearly the whole of the inhabitants came to bid us welcome.
Aug. 24th.—About sunrise we began to prepare for marching, but as our journey was a very short one, we remained several hours longer, so that we might arrive at Abomey about mid-day. It is a custom in Dahomey for all strangers of note visiting that capital to enter the town when the sun is at its meridian. This is considered to be a necessary observance for all distinguished visitors.
Upon entering the outer gates of Abomey, we were met by Mayho, and several distinguished members of his Majesty’s household, with an additional band of music, which played till my arrival at my old quarters. Upon entering, I must confess I felt great satisfaction, and a feeling of gratitude to the Great Ruler of all things flashed over my mind. My first inquiry was, whether my white servant, Maurice, whom I sent back from Baffo, was still alive, not finding him in the apartment formerly occupied by him. I was told he was still alive, and until he heard the sound of the drums announcing my return was walking about occasionally, and giving directions respecting his cooking; Mayho having appointed a cook and other attendants to wait on him. But on our entering the gates he took to his bed, and never again seemed to rally. I visited him immediately, but found him much reduced. He told me that every attention had been paid to him, and that the King had appointed a native doctor to attend him, but he was now suffering from dysentery and quite exhausted.
I used the prescribed remedies as far as my means extended, but having no European provision, I was compelled to do the best I could with him upon native diet. I had great difficulty in convincing him of my forgiveness for his conduct, which I have already mentioned. He fancied that my intention was upon my return to the coast to deliver him up to the authorities for punishment; and I cannot help thinking that in spite of my assurance to the contrary, the poor fellow would never believe that I should not do so.
Aug. 25th.—The weather now suddenly became alarmingly cold for an African climate. This was accompanied with heavy rains. During the night the thermometer fell to 70°, and at noon on the following day did not rise higher than 77° Fahrenheit. In the night many of my people caught cold, as well as myself. My poor servant Maurice was still extremely low, and without any hopes of recovery. I ordered some warm water and soap to be brought to me, and with my sponge I washed the whole of his person. At the same time I changed the whole of his clothes and had them washed.
The King now sent for me to the palace, where he received me with every mark of kindness and respect; and after shaking me heartily by the hand, immediately proposed the health of the Queen of England and all the royal family. In return, of course, I proposed the health of himself. My own health was next drank, after which the King gave me a familiar slap on the back with his open hand, saying, “White man don’t know proper fear, nor take proper care. In black man’s country,” he said, “I make him much fear, when he hear I go into far country beyond Mahee,” meaning the Fellattah country. This was conveyed to me by my own interpreter. He asked me, what the Queen of England would say if I had been killed, when in his care or under his protection. He added, that all white men would say, his own people had killed me, and that would bring shame upon his head.