About nine A.M. we recommenced our journey, the path bearing N.E., and at one mile N. 35° E. I noticed the chain of mountains running N.E. and S.W., distant about four miles, and bearing north from Paweea. The country round, however, is level, and studded with palm and other trees. In the distance, the immense blocks of granite appeared stratified, or divided into perpendicular sections, but upon a nearer approach were found to be only marks left by the running down of the water which accumulates in naturally formed basins or tanks on the tops, apparently formed by the heavy rains acting powerfully on the softer parts of the rock. From the excessive heat, this water soon becomes foul, and the first succeeding rains cause an overflow, marking the rock in dark streaks, and giving it the appearance I have stated.
At a mile and a half, bearing north, the soil became gravelly, studded with trees. At two miles and a half, bearing again north, we crossed the brook Aditay, running eastward, over a rocky bottom of blue granite. This beautiful clear stream is, on an average, during the season only two feet deep and six wide. It is a permanent stream, capable of propelling machinery. At three miles and a half, the bearing changed to E. N. E., with clear springs, impregnated with iron. The temperature was 64° Fahrenheit. The land is still level, and the soil of the dark colour of decayed vegetation. At five miles we crossed the river Tawee, running east. This river is wider than the last, with a gravelly bed; current less rapid, but also capable of turning machinery.
At seven miles I observed two mountains of considerable magnitude, and very picturesque, distant from the path two miles, and bearing N. 35° W. The land is beautifully cultivated along the foot of the mountains. The drilling system is followed here with the corn, both in the Dahoman and Mahee countries, and with all sorts of grain, as well as with the sweet potato; but yams are planted in mounds about three feet in height, of a conical form. In this part, however, the yams are inferior generally to those grown on the coast, being what are called water-yams, which are much softer than those found near Whydah. Four different sorts of maize, or Indian corn, are grown here, the smallest of which produces four crops in twelve months. The Guinea corn is also very abundant, as well as another grain which grows about the same height. This grain very much resembles mustard-seed.
At ten miles, we arrived at the foot of the mountain of Zoglogbo, a splendid specimen, although not more than eighteen hundred feet high on the south-east side. We halted at a small kroom at its foot, in the market-place, where I changed my dress at the desire of the captain of my guard, and put on my regimentals to receive the caboceer of Zoglogbo. I had scarcely finished, when he arrived with his retinue. He is a remarkably fine old man, apparently about sixty years of age, and of a very venerable appearance. He is nearly six feet high, and altogether of a noble and graceful figure. He approached within about five yards of the place where I was seated, by the side of the caboceer or captain of my guard, when, before speaking a word, he, together with his head men and attendants, prostrated themselves, throwing dust on their heads, and rubbing their arms with the same. My own caboceer next prostrated himself, going through similar forms of humility. Both parties afterwards remained on their knees, and delivered the King’s message respecting the King’s stranger, as they constantly called me. We then drank water with each other, previous to the introduction of rum, of which our new and venerable friend Kpatchie seemed very fond.
We now proceeded to ascend the mountain by a narrow fissure or fracture nearly perpendicular, passing in our ascent many very large cotton-trees, dispersed irregularly in the different crevices of the rock. Numbers of large monkeys of different species were playing amongst the boughs, but they were rather wild, being hunted for their flesh, which is used here for food. The passage up the side of the mountain is so narrow, as only to admit of one man passing at a time, and very steep and difficult, on account of the many blocks of stone which impede the ascent. It would have been impossible for me to ascend with my shoes on, had not the old caboceer of the mountain walked in front and given me his hand, and another person pushed at my back, as occasion required.
After a somewhat toilsome though romantic journey, we arrived at the gates of the town, which were of very thick planks of seven inches, strongly barred with iron. After passing the gates the path was much easier and not so steep, from the fissure not being filled so high, so that the top of the fissure was far above the head, apparently above twenty yards. After passing a little distance farther we came upon the town, which is situated in a basin, or crater, formed in the centre of the top of the mountain. Round the outer edge of this immense basin are thrown tremendous blocks of various sizes, underneath which many houses are built. Although these blocks are placed on each other in such a tottering position, the houses in the centre of the town are erected with considerable taste and regularity. The residences of the principal merchants and influential members of the town are built in the form of squares or quadrangles, which are occupied by their wives, which are frequently very numerous, as well as their families. Their slaves also occupy a part of the buildings, and are treated as well as their own families. Indeed, as I have already observed, they work together in cultivating the fields, or any other domestic employment.
The caboceer led us to a tolerably good house with every necessary utensil for our use. Many presents of various descriptions were brought to me, the old caboceer seeming much pleased at the kindness of his people to the King’s stranger. His own kindness and attention were unbounded, as well as those of his principal attendant, a young man of rank from Dahomey, and the handsomest and most intelligent African I had ever met. The King of Dahomey displays great sagacity in sending Dahomans to the frontiers between the Mahees, Yarriba, and Fellattahs. These men, although acting as principal attendants to chiefs or caboceers of the subdued Mahees, are nothing more nor less than political spies, the upper rank of such persons preventing any combination or alliance dangerous to the power of the King of Dahomey, although generally the Mahees seem very much pleased with their present government and new laws.
After we had established ourselves in our quarters, we were supplied with plenty of peto and clean water to drink, and the caboceer sat down and enjoyed himself with us, often expressing his gratification at being visited by the King’s stranger. In a short time large quantities of provision were brought for us, and as usual ready cooked. Being rather hungry, we made a pretty hearty meal, and afterwards were again joined by the old caboceer, and several of the merchants or traders from Abomey, who presented me with a large quantity of peto.
It now commenced a very heavy rain, consequently we were obliged to content ourselves with remaining in the house, and conversing upon different topics respecting England and Africa. I found while conversing on the state and government of Dahomey, a certain backwardness in their replies, unless through my own caboceer. Whether this arose from a want of knowledge on the subject, or in compliance with orders given to refer such questions to the caboceer of my guard, I am unable to decide, but should suppose that this latter was the fact. During the evening the caboceer partook too much of the peto and rum, accompanied with large quantities of snuff, which he administered alternately to his mouth and nose. Several persons were admitted and introduced to me by him. My poor servant Maurice, although I had given him my horse the whole of the day’s journey, was now quite knocked up, and extremely low in spirits. After spending a tolerably comfortable evening my friends departed, and I went to rest for the night.
July 14th.—Early in the morning the caboceer again visited me, to pay me the customary morning compliment, and in about an hour after he had retired breakfast was sent ready cooked, as usual, for myself and soldiers. After breakfast we walked round the town, which is of great beauty. From the quantities of fused iron-stone thrown indiscriminately amongst the immense blocks of granite, it would appear that the centre of the mountain had at some remote period been thrown up by some volcanic irruption. Zoglogbo forms the N.E. extreme of a range of mountains running N.E. and S.W. and is the highest of that range. The grain of the granite is much larger than that of most of the rocks of the other mountains. On the north-eastern extremity, and on the top of the rock, are several tanks nearly filled with water, for it is now the rainy season. These tanks are formed by nature, and are found to be of great advantage, both for the people and the cattle, which, to my great surprise, I found in and about the town, though the ascent from the plain is so difficult, that I was obliged to leave my horse at the bottom at one of the towns. The fracture, extending entirely across the mountain, forms two passes, adjoining which is a town on each side. I found upon inquiry, that a cow and bull had been carried up into the mountain, and their offspring preserved, and that only very lately they had begun to kill them. The cattle live upon leaves and branches of different shrubs and stunted trees.