eaten without their due Correctives, which the Learned [9]Salmaſius, and, indeed generally, the [10]old Phyſicians affirm (and that truly) all Crude and raw λαχανα
require to render them wholſome; ſo as probably they were from hence, as [11]Pliny thinks, call'd Acetaria: and not (as Hermolaus and ſome others) Acceptaria ab Accipiendo; nor from Accedere, though ſo [12]ready at hand, and eaſily dreſs'd; requiring neither Fire, Coſt, or Attendance, to boil, roaſt, and prepare them as did Fleſh, and other Proviſions; from which, and other Prerogatives, they were always in uſe, &c. And hence indeed the more frugal Italians and French, to this Day, gather Ogni Verdura, any thing almoſt that's Green and Tender, to the very Tops of Nettles; ſo as every Hedge affords a Sallet (not unagreeable) ſeaſon'd with its proper Oxybaphon of Vinegar, Salt, Oyl, &c. which doubtleſs gives it both the Reliſh and Name of Salad, Emſalada [13], as with us of Sallet; from the Sapidity, which renders not Plants and Herbs alone, but Men themſelves, and their Converſations, pleaſant and agreeable: But of this enough, and perhaps too much; leaſt whilſt I write of Salt and Sallet, I appear my ſelf Inſipid: I paſs therefore to the Ingredients, which we will call
Furniture and Materials
T he Materials of Sallets, which together with the groſſer Olera, conſiſt of Roots, Stalks, Leaves, Buds, Flowers, &c. Fruits (belonging to another Claſs) would require a much ampler Volume, than would ſuit our Kalendar, (of which this pretends to be an Appendix only) ſhould we extend the following Catalogue further than to a brief enumeration only of ſuch Herbaceous Plants, Oluſcula and smaller Eſculents, as are chiefly us'd in Cold Sallets, of whose Culture we have treated there; and as we gather them from the Mother and Genial Bed, with a touch only of their Qualities, for Reasons hereafter given.
1. Alexanders, Hippoſelinum; S. Smyrnium vulgare (much of the nature of Perſly) is moderately hot, and of a cleanſing Faculty, Deobſtructing, nouriſhing, and comforting the Stomach. The gentle freſh Sprouts, Buds, and Tops are to be choſen, and the Stalks eaten in the Spring; and when Blanch'd, in Winter likewiſe, with Oyl, Pepper, Salt, &c. by themſelves, or in Compoſition: They make alſo an excellent Vernal Pottage.
2. Artichaux, Cinara, (Carduus Sativus) hot and dry. The Heads being ſlit in quarters firſt eaten raw, with Oyl, a little Vinegar, Salt, and Pepper, gratefully recommend a Glaſs of Wine; Dr. Muffet ſays, at the end of Meals.
They are likewiſe, whilſt tender and ſmall, fried in freſh Butter criſp with Perſley. But then become a moſt delicate and excellent Reſtorative, when full grown, they are boil'd the common way. The Bottoms are alſo bak'd in Pies, with Marrow, Dates, and other rich Ingredients: In Italy they ſometimes broil them, and as the Scaly Leaves open, baſte them with freſh and ſweet Oyl; but with Care extraordinary, for if a drop fall upon the Coals, all is marr'd; that hazard eſcap'd, they eat them with the Juice of Orange and Sugar.
The Stalk is Blanch'd in Autumn, and the Pith eaten raw or boil'd. The way of preſerving them freſh all Winter, is by ſeparating the Bottoms from the Leaves, and after Parboiling, allowing to every Bottom, a ſmall earthen glaz'd Pot; burying it all over in freſh melted Butter, as they do Wild-Fowl, &c. Or if more than one, in a larger Pot, in the ſame Bed and Covering, Layer upon Layer.
They are alſo preſerv'd by ſtringing them on Pack-thread, a clean Paper being put between every Bottom, to hinder them from touching one another, and ſo hung up in a dry place. They are likewiſe Pickl'd.
'Tis not very long ſince this noble Thiſtle came firſt into Italy, Improv'd to this Magnitude by Culture; and ſo rare in England, that they were commonly ſold for Crowns a piece: But what Carthage yearly ſpent in them (as Pliny computes the Sum) amounted to Seſtertia Sena Millia, 30000 l. Sterling.