Among theſe comes in the Fungus Reticularis, to be found about London, as at Fulham and other places; whilſt at no ſmall charge we ſend for them into France; as we alſo do for Trufles, Pig-nuts, and other ſubterraneous Tubera, which in Italy they fry in Oyl, and eat with Pepper: They are commonly diſcovered by a Naſute Swine purpoſely brought up; being of a Cheſsnut Colour, and heady Smell, and not ſeldom found in England, particularly in a Park of my Lord Cotton's at Ruſhton or Rusbery in Northampton-ſhire, and doubtleſs in other [31]places too were they ſought after. How these rank and provocative Excreſcences are to be [32]treated (of themſelves inſipid enough, and only famous for their kindly taking any Pickle or Conditure) that they may do the leſs Miſchief we might here ſet down. But ſince there be ſo many ways of Dreſſing them, that I can incourage none to uſe them, for Reaſons given (beſides that they do not at all concern our ſafer and innocent Sallet Furniture) I forbear it; and referr thoſe who long after this beloved Ragout, and other Voluptuaria Venena (as Seneca calls them) to what our Learned Dr. Lyſter [33] ſays of the many Venomous Inſects harbouring and corrupting in a new found-out Species of Muſhroms had lately in deliciis. Thoſe, in the mean time, which are eſteemed beſt, and leſs pernicious, (of which ſee the Appendix) are ſuch as riſe in rich, airy, and dry [34]Paſture-Grounds; growing on the Staff or Pedicule of about an Inch thick and high; moderately Swelling (Target-like) round and firm, being underneath of a pale ſaffronish hue, curiouſly radiated in parallel Lines and Edges, which becoming either Yellow, Orange, or Black, are to be rejected: But beſides what the Harveſt-Months produce, they are likewiſe rais'd [35]Artificially; as at Naples in their Wine-Cellars, upon an heap of rank Earth, heaped upon a certain ſuppoſed Stone, but in truth, (as the curious and noble [36]Peireſky tells us, he found to be) nothing but an heap of old Fungus's, reduc'd and compacted to a ſtony hardness, upon which they lay Earth, and ſprinkle it with warm Water, in which Muſhroms have been ſteeped. And in France, by making an hot Bed of Aſſes-Dung, and when the heat is in Temper, watering it (as above) well impregnated with the Parings and Offals of refuſe Fungus's; and ſuch a Bed will laſt two or three Years, and ſometimes our common Melon-Beds afford them, beſides other Experiments.
40. Muſtard, Sinapi; exceeding hot and mordicant, not only in the Seed but Leaf alſo; eſpecially in Seedling young Plants, like thoſe of Radiſhes (newly peeping out of the Bed) is of incomparable effect to quicken and revive the Spirits; ſtrengthening the Memory, expelling heavineſs, preventing the Vertiginous Palſie, and is a laudable Cephalick. Beſides it is an approv'd Antiſcorbutick; aids Concoction, cuts and diſſipates Phlegmatick Humours. In ſhort, 'tis the moſt noble Embamma, and ſo neceſſary an Ingredient to all cold and raw Salleting, that it is very rarely, if at all, to be left out. In Italy in making Muſtard, they mingle Limon and Orange-Peel, with the Seeds. How the beſt is made, ſee hereafter.
Naſturtium Indicum. See Creſſes.
41. Nettles, Urtica; Hot, dry, Diuretic, Solvent; purifies the Blood: The Buds, and very tender Cimae, a little bruiſed, are by ſome eaten raw, by others boil'd, eſpecially in Spring-Pottage, with other Herbs.
42. Onion, Cepa, Porrum; the beſt are ſuch as are brought us out of Spain, whence they of St. Omers had them, and ſome that have weigh'd eight Pounds. Chooſe therefore the large, round, white, and thin Skin'd. Being eaten crude and alone with Oyl, Vinegar, and Pepper, we own them in Sallet, not ſo hot as Garlick, nor at all ſo rank: Boil'd, they give a kindly reliſh; raise Appetite, corroborate the Stomach, cut Phlegm, and profit the Aſthmatical: But eaten in exceſs, are ſaid to offend the Head and Eyes, unleſs Edulcorated with a gentle maceration. In the mean time, as to their being noxious to the Sight, is imputable only to the Vapour riſing from the raw Onion, when peeled, which ſome commend for its purging and quickning that Senſe. How they are us'd in Pottage, boil'd in Milk, stew'd, &c. concerns the Kitchin. In our cold Sallet we ſupply them with the Porrum Sectile, Tops of Leeks, and Eſchalots (Aſcalonia) of guſt more exalted, yet not to the degree of Garlick. Or (by what of later uſe is much preferr'd) with a Seed or two of Raccombo, of a yet milder and delicate nature, which by rubbing the Diſh only, imparts its Vertue agreeably enough. In Italy they frequently make a Sallet of Scalions, Cives, and Chibbols only ſeaſon'd with Oyl and Pepper; and an honeſt laborious Country-man, with good Bread, Salt, and a little Parſley, will make a contented Meal with a roaſted Onion. How this noble Bulb was deified in [37]Egypt we are told, and that whilſt they were building the Pyramids, there was ſpent in this Root [38]Ninety Tun of Gold among the Workmen. So luſhious and tempting it ſeems they were, that as whole Nations have ſubſiſted on them alone; ſo the Iſraelites were ready to return to Slavery and Brick-making for the love of them. Indeed Hecamedes we find preſents them to Patroclus, in Homer, as a Regalo; But certainly we are either miſtaken in the Species (which ſome will have to be Melons) or uſe Poetick Licence, when we ſo highly magnify them.
43. Orach, Atriplex: Is cooling, allays the Pituit Humor: Being ſet over the Fire, neither this, nor Lettuce, needs any other Water than their own moiſture to boil them in, without Expreſſion: The tender Leaves are mingl'd with other cold Salleting; but 'tis better in Pottage. See Blitum.
44. Orange, Arantiæ (Malum aureum) Moderately dry, cooling, and inciſive; ſharpens Appetite, exceedingly refreſhes and reſists Putrefaction: We ſpeak of the Sub acid; the ſweet and bitter Orange being of no uſe in our Sallet. The Limon is ſomewhat more acute, cooling and extinguiſhing Thirſt; of all the Οξυβαφα
the best ſuccedaneum to Vinegar. The very Spoils and Rinds of Orange and Limon being ſhred and ſprinkl'd among the other Herbs, correct the Acrimony. But they are the tender Seedlings from the Hot-Bed, which impart an Aromatic exceedingly grateful to the Stomach. Vide Limon.