'Tis moreover to be conſider'd, that Edule Plants are not in all their Taſtes and Vertues alike: For as Providence has made us to conſiſt of different Parts and Members, both Internal and External; ſo require they different Juices to nouriſh and ſupply them: Wherefore the force and activity of ſome Plants lie in the Root; and even the Leaves of ſome Bitter-Roots are ſweet, and è contra. Of others, in the Stem, Leaves, Buds, Flowers, &c. Some exert their Vigour without Decoction; others being a little preſs'd or contus'd; others again Raw, and beſt in Conſort; ſome alone, and per ſe without any σκενασια,
Preparation, or Mixture at all. Care therefore muſt be taken by the Collector, that what he gathers anſwer to theſe Qualities; and that as near as he can, they conſiſt (I ſpeak of the cruder Salleting) of the Oluſcula, and ex foliis pubeſcentibus, or (as Martial calls them) Prototomi rudes, and very tendereſt Parts Gems, young Buds, and even firſt Rudiments of their ſeveral Plants; ſuch as we ſometimes find in the Craws of the Wood-Culver, Stock-Dove, Partridge, Pheaſants, and other Upland Fowl, where we have a natural Sallet, pick'd, and almoſt dreſs'd to our hands.
I. Preparatory to the Dreſſing therefore, let your Herby Ingredients be exquiſitely cull'd, and cleans'd of all worm-eaten, ſlimy, canker'd, dry, ſpotted, or any ways vitiated Leaves. And then that they be rather diſcreetly ſprinkl'd, than over-much ſob'd with Spring-Water, eſpecially Lettuce, which Dr. [57]Muffet thinks impairs their Vertue; but this, I ſuppoſe he means of the Cabbage-kind, whoſe heads are ſufficiently protected by the outer Leaves which cover it. After waſhing, let them remain a while in the Cullender, to drain the ſuperfluous moiſture: And laſtly, ſwing them altogether gently in a clean courſe Napkin; and ſo they will be in perfect condition to receive the Intinctus following.
II. That the Oyl, an Ingredient ſo indiſpenſibly and highly neceſſary, as to have obtain'd the name of Cibarium (and with us of Sallet-Oyl) be very clean, not high-colour'd, nor yellow; but with an Eye rather of a pallid Olive green, without Smell, or the leaſt touch of rancid, or indeed of any other ſensible Taſte or Scent at all; but ſmooth, light, and pleaſant upon the Tongue; ſuch as the genuine Omphacine, and native Luca Olives afford, fit to allay the tartneſs of Vinegar, and other Acids, yet gently to warm and humectate where it paſſes. Some who have an averſion to Oyl, ſubſtitute freſh Butter in its ſtead; but 'tis ſo exceedingly clogging to the Stomach, as by no means to be allow'd.
III. Thirdly, That the Vinegar and other liquid Acids, perfectly clear, neither ſowre, Vapid or ſpent; be of the beſt Wine Vinegar, whether Diſtill'd, or otherwiſe Aromatiz'd, and impregnated with the Infuſion of Clove-gillyflowers, Elder, Roſes, Roſemary, Naſturtium, &c. inrich'd with the Vertues of the Plant.
A Verjuice not unfit for Sallet, is made by a Grape of that Name, or the green immature Cluſters of moſt other Grapes, preſs'd and put into a ſmall Veſſel to ferment.
IV. Fourthly, That the Salt (aliorum Condimentorum Condimentum, as Plutarch calls it) deterſive, penetrating, quickning (and ſo great a reſiſter of Putrefaction, and univerſal uſe, as to have ſometimes merited Divine Epithets) be of the brighteſt Bay grey-Salt; moderately dried, and contus'd, as being the leaſt Corroſive: But of this, as of Sugar alſo, which ſome mingle with the Salt (as warming without heating) if perfectly refin'd, there would be no great difficulty; provided none, ſave Ladies, were of the Meſs; whilſt the perfection of Sallets, and that which gives them the name, conſiſts in the grateful Saline Acid-point, temper'd as is directed, and which we find to be moſt eſteem'd by judicious Palates: Some, in the mean time, have been ſo nice, and luxuriouſly curious as for the heightning, and (as they affect to ſpeak) giving the utmoſt poinant and Relevèe in lieu of our vulgar Salt, to recommend and cry-up the Eſſential-Salts and Spirits of the moſt Sanative Vegetables; or ſuch of the Alcalizate and Fixt; extracted from the Calcination of Baulm, Roſemary, Wormwood, Scurvy-graſs, &c. Affirming that without the groſs Plant, we might have healing, cooling, generous, and refreſhing Cordials, and all the Materia Medica out of the Salt-Cellar only: But to ſay no more of this Impertinence, as to Salts of Vegetables; many indeed there be, who reckon them not much unlike in Operation, however different in Taſte, Cryſtals, and Figure: It being a queſtion, whether they at all retain the Vertues and Faculties of their Simples, unleſs they could be made without Colcination. Franciſcus Redi, gives us his Opinion of this, in a Proceſs how they are to be prepar'd; and ſo does our Learned [58]Doctor (whom we lately nam'd) whether Lixivial, Eſſential, Marine, or other factitious Salts of Plants, with their Qualities, and how they differ: But ſince 'tis thought all Fixed Salts made the common way, are little better than our common Salt, let it ſuffice, that our Sallet-Salt be of the beſt ordinary Bay-Salt, clean, bright, dry, and without clamineſs.
Of Sugar (by ſome call'd Indian-Salt) as it is rarely us'd in Sallet, it ſhould be of the beſt refined, white, hard, cloſe, yet light and ſweet as the Madera's: Nouriſhing, preſerving, cleanſing, delighting the Taſte, and preferrable to Honey for moſt uſes. Note, That both this, Salt, and Vinegar, are to be proportion'd to the Conſtitution, as well as what is ſaid of the Plants themſelves. The one for cold, the other for hot stomachs.
V. That the Muſtard (another noble Ingredient) be of the beſt Tewksberry; or elſe compos'd of the ſoundest and weightieſt Yorkſhire Seed, exquiſitely ſifted, winnow'd, and freed from the Husks, a little (not over-much) dry'd by the Fire, temper'd to the conſiſtence of a Pap with Vinegar, in which ſhavings of the Horſe-Radiſh have been ſteep'd: Then cutting an Onion, and putting it into a ſmall Earthen Gally-Pot, or ſome thick Glaſs of that ſhape; pour the Muſtard over it, and cloſe it very well with a Cork. There be, who preſerve the Flower and Duſt of the bruiſed Seed in a well-ſtopp'd Glaſs, to temper, and have it freſh when they pleaſe. But what is yet by ſome eſteem'd beyond all theſe, is compos'd of the dried Seeds of the Indian Naſturtium, reduc'd to Powder, finely bolted, and mixt with a little Levain, and ſo from time to time made freſh, as indeed all other Muſtard ſhould be.
Note, That the Seeds are pounded in a Mortar; or bruis'd with a poliſh'd Cannon-Bullet, in a large wooden Bowl-Diſh, or which is moſt preferr'd, ground in a Quern contriv'd for this purpoſe only.