In the upper rooms of the building are tastefully displayed one hundred and fifty thousand stand of arms, in all forms and figures, so as to present a beautiful decoration, while at the same time they are ready for use. Columns which to appearance support the halls, are all of warlike instruments. You see the large double-headed eagle, the arms of Austria, from twelve to fifteen feet long, with out-stretched wings, all composed of instruments of warfare beautifully arranged.
The coach establishment of the royal family is scarcely less magnificent than the great arsenal. I thought the coaches and equipages of the Pope of Rome must be superior to those of any other potentate, but those of the Emperor of Austria surpass them. There are about thirty large and small coaches, all glittering with gold. The largest of the number corresponds in size with an American stage coach; the wheels, pole, and all but the body, being covered with plated gold, the driver’s and footmen’s seats covered with scarlet velvet, the inside lined with the same material, and the body painted after the design of Rubens, with beautiful characters and emblematic figures, and finished in a style that cannot be excelled in beauty. On the top is an immense crown of gold, which serves as a grand finish of the efforts for grandeur. The painting alone cost thirty thousand dollars, the whole vehicle ninety thousand dollars! It is used but twice a year, and is one hundred and twenty years old. Such is some of the pomp and pageantry of crowned heads, and, after all, what wretched governments, compared with our enlightened republic, do they give the people!
The Emperor is, however, a plain man, beloved by his people. He gives audience one day in the week to all who choose to make application beforehand in writing. He usually sets the example of dining at one o’clock, and, as a consequence, that is the fashionable dinner hour in the city. He is a regular attendant on Divine service in his own chapel connected with the palace. But any citizen can go and see, at certain times, what is called his private side-box, where he does no business and observes few ceremonies.
Since my arrival here I have tested the qualities of the mineral baths, which are the resort of thousands at this season of the year. The warm springs contain large portions of sulphur, are strongly impregnated with carbonic acid gas, and are very extensive.
Among other curiosities worthy of attention, in a public square near the centre of the city, is the trunk of an old tree, the only one remaining of an ancient forest, which occupied half the ground now covered with buildings. It has several iron hoops to aid in preserving it, and as it has been the custom of apprentices on setting out on a journey to drive a nail in it by way of memorial, it has become so filled with nails that there is no place left to drive another. It has the appearance of, and is called, “the tree of iron,” and gives its name to the square in which it stands.
With regard to apprentices, Austria has some peculiar regulations. The law compels them to travel in the empire two years in search of employment, and to gain information. They can enter any city and apply to the head of a committee for employment. If none can be obtained they are provided for, but can remain only two days, before they must travel again. They are required to keep a journal of all the places visited and bring back testimonials of character. When their time has expired they return home and pass an examination; if pronounced worthy, they are then allowed to open a shop. In consequence of this regulation it is not uncommon to see fine-looking young men, with packs on their backs, come up to a coach door and beg for any trifle of money, which their necessities drive them to solicit, and it is a rule with the Austrians always to aid them liberally.
XIII.
Pest, Hungary, July 2, 1841.
My last letter was from Vienna, which city we left a few days since for the capital of Hungary. We took a steamer on the Danube, about three miles from Vienna, and descended to Presburg, about fifty miles. The navigation of this part of the Danube is difficult, owing to the shoals and rapidity of the currents. On the route we passed the memorable battle-ground of Wagram. Traces of the works of Napoleon’s fortified camp on the island of Lobau, still remain. This narrow island—two and one-third miles long, and three-quarters of a mile broad—it is said contained one hundred and fifty thousand foot and thirty thousand horse, and seven hundred pieces of cannon, concentrated from all parts of Europe. We also passed the villages of Aspern and Essling, the scene of a memorable engagement in 1809, when the Austrians, under the Archduke Charles, gained a temporary but important advantage over Napoleon. Aspern was reduced to ruins; and scarcely any traces now remain of it; save the marks of cannon and shot in the walls of the churchyard.
We soon arrived at Presburg, the place of coronation of the king of Hungary, with a population of forty thousand, pleasantly situated on the Danube. The most conspicuous edifice to be seen here is the royal palace on the hill above the city. It was here that Maria Theresa, the youthful queen, at the commencement of her reign, when attacked on all sides, appeared in deep mourning, with the cross of St. Stephen in her hand, and girt with his sword, and delivered a speech, stating the disastrous condition of her affairs, and throwing herself on the fidelity of her people. The Hungarians could not resist the appeal, but in the excitement of feeling voted supplies to carry on the war, and summoned the wild tribes from the remote quarters of Hungary, to carry terror to all parts of the continent. Near the city an artificial mound is pointed out, about forty feet high, called Konigsburgh, to which every new king of Hungary has heretofore repaired on horseback, after his coronation, and from its summit made the sign of the cross in the air with the sword of St. Stephen, and waved it towards the four points of the compass, signifying thus his intention to protect the land on all sides.