Twenty years around the world

by John Guy Vassar

We have here three Sabbaths: on Friday the Turkish bazaars are closed; on Saturday the Jews keep their Sabbath; and Sunday all the Christian races keep theirs, at least a part of the day. Those who wish to make purchases should select the early part of the week.

Steam has here made its innovation. We formerly had only the small egg-shell caique for the waters about the metropolis; now steamers for ferries and excursions are employed, and packed full. A bridge of boats connects old Stamboul with Galata, across the Golden Horn. Many more carriages are employed, richly gilded with gold. The ladies of the harem are seen more frequently riding out; and the white gauze veils, disclosing only the eyes and nose, seem to be lighter in texture than formerly, showing more of the beautiful features of the Georgian and Circassian beauties.

The currency of the country is unsettled; little but paper and copper is seen; consequently speculation has increased, and the people complain of increased charges making Constantinople one of the most expensive cities in Europe.

CXXXV.

Sebastopol, May 12, 1858.

The voyage from Constantinople up the Bosphorus and to the head of the Black Sea, was made in forty hours, on board of the new steamer Grand Duke Constantine. This was her first trip, and with fair weather, a comfortable one. The Russian Company, through a guarantee of five per cent. interest for a term of years, from the government, have ordered in all fifty steamers, to compete with the Austrians and French in the navigation of the Mediterranean and Black Seas; and it is thought by the travelling public that competition will reduce the extravagant charges on these lines, which is detrimental to commerce.

The great grain city of Odessa suffered but little during the war from the allies. It lies somewhat elevated from the harbor, with private houses, rather scattered, covering great distances, and large public and private buildings of cut sandstone; its unpaved streets, and the immense number of droskeys, grain carts, and other vehicles, with a light clay soil, make it one of the dustiest cities I ever was in. The birthday of the Empress was celebrated in the cathedral, and as a holiday, and in the evening there was an illumination upon the Boulevard, an elevated drive commanding a fine view of the harbor; and the turn-out of fine horses, and carriages filled with ladies in rich robes, presented a scene seldom equalled.

A Russian passport had to be procured for the Crimea. For the information of all those who design visiting Russia, I would say, bring nothing printed, as all books, maps, &c., are seized at the custom-house and sent to the censor office. On leaving, one must advertise three times in the paper his intention of quitting the empire, in order to show that he has contracted no debts, or committed no offences; then a passport will be granted by the police. When I travelled through Finland and the north of Russia, I was provided with documents as bearer of despatches, thereby avoiding all annoyance of examination of luggage, and met with much civility.

I embarked for Eupatoria at twelve A.M., and was landed the following day; it is the first point of debarkation of the united squadron. The town is partially destroyed, and is a small miserable place. The batteries of the allies are still recognizable near Wind Mill Point; these and the Jewish synagogue, of much beauty for this country, are all of interest to be seen. I posted to Sympheropol, the capital town of the Crimea, a distance of seventy-two wersts, or fifty-four miles, passing salt lakes, which are productive, and worked largely for exportation; a long distance of rolling prairie country, with little timber; occasional small streams, with valleys and shade or fruit trees, thinly settled, bearing some analogy to parts of our western country. The city has fourteen thousand population, and is rather pleasantly situated. The hotels are bad throughout the land, and war prices are still maintained. The Greek churches are the prominent monuments, with a great profusion of ornaments, outstripping the Latin Catholics in decoration. From Sympheropol I took a two horse fourgen, a sort of covered baggage wagon, there being no post route to Bourlouk, or the battle field of Alma, in company with a young Russian officer to whom I was recommended, and who kindly offered to accompany me. He had received two orders for his zeal and bravery in the battles and eleven months’ occupation of Sebastopol, during the siege, and was a valuable guide and companion. His sister owned the land and village which stands near the scene of combat. The Russians burnt the huts of the Tartar peasants, the mansion house, and stacks of grain, to prevent their falling into the hands of the enemy. We made the thirty wersts, and arrived at nightfall. After the national dish of the Tabaif, a sort of vermicelli paste, baked, with honey and tea, which can be procured all over Russia, beds were made upon the divan in the new stone cottage, and to my surprise and delight I slept upon the folds of the stars and stripes of an American flag, preserved from the wreck of a vessel on the coast.

In the morning, our accomplished hostess, who spoke French like a native, mounted her horse, and we rode over most parts of her possessions, some seven wersts square, comprising the battle grounds, and the different heights and valleys occupied by the Russian, French, and English troops, crossing the Alma at different points, visiting the cemeteries of thirteen thousand slain of both armies, and reading the epitaphs on such few tombs as had been erected.