Twenty years around the world

by John Guy Vassar

I passed a couple of days with a Russian nobleman at his village, making a detour of some thirty wersts, on a side route upon the banks of a little river where was quite a forest. As the question of the emancipation of the serfs in Russia is now the absorbing topic, I availed myself of the invitation. In many particulars it reminded me of the plantations in our southern country. Two years ago the village of cottages was burned down, when the proprietor immediately built brick kilns, having materials and wood on the spot, and reconstructed the houses better than before. He is one of the few Russian nobles who attends personally to his estate, and has much of the American in his composition for contrivance. He has three hundred and eighty-four serfs. They work three days in the week for their lord, and three for themselves. He had erected a flouring mill of very rude construction, with several run of stones. Little iron was made use of, as such supplies come from Moscow, and are very expensive. He also had an undershot wheel in the little creek or river for supplying his large garden and fruit trees with water by irrigation, as the steppes or plains suffer much at times from drought. The little girls of the village were busying themselves with gathering mulberry leaves for feeding silkworms, as he had erected a building for the purpose. The women and men were employed in all kinds of agricultural work. He has his overseers, but is quite practical himself. His family was absent, but his home was comfortable, and I was treated most hospitably.

He was willing to join in the manumission of the serfs, now the commands of the government fall upon him. If the serfs are liberated, he can rent his land to them, also sell or rent horses, oxen, &c., and if he employs them, pay wages. His domain is about ten miles square.

Staverpool is the seat of government for northern Circassia. It is a town of fourteen thousand inhabitants, built upon a pretty site in the midst of a picturesque country, and surrounded by hills, and valleys, and groups of forest trees. It is pretty well built, and contains a cathedral, and churches, with domes, spires, and roofs painted green, as usual, presenting a fine appearance. In all Russian towns the churches are the most striking ornaments.

I was presented to the governor, dined with generals and colonels in the service, and passed an evening at a re-union of the citizens in a beautiful woody grove, with a building for dancing and supper, at which figured the glittering uniforms of officers in all the different branches of government employ, and some pretty ladies, handsomely dressed. Paris modes and fineries find their way to the most remote parts. Two Circassian princes, in full costume, were among the number for their first time in civilized society; but like our Indians, did not express surprise at the giddy waltz, or the music of the military band.

CXL.

Taganrog, Russia, June 28, 1858.

From Staverpool I had five hundred wersts to travel in order to strike the waters of the river Don, at Rastoff, a town which thrives through the increasing grain trade. From thence I came in a tug steamer to this city, on the head waters of the Sea of Azoff.

The scenery on the route is little varied, consisting of vast steppes, or plains, with seldom any timber to be seen, and Cossack villages every twenty wersts and upwards. Immense droves of cattle, sheep, goats, and horses are frequently observed grazing, and cultivation is somewhat better and more general than in the country I had passed through before.

The natural roads over the prairies are easy for horses and for travellers, but quite monotonous. Posting is less difficult, and less dangerous, from the attacks of freebooters, being out of the district of the Circassians, but it is almost as difficult to obtain supplies on the road.

When horses were obtainable, we kept on until late at night, as my companion assured me there was no danger. He was familiar with the roads, and, notwithstanding others lay by through apprehension, and postmasters would not furnish horses after dark, he said at the point where we were, the Circassians could not seize us, and get across the line of sentinels by daylight; besides which, at this season they had their engagements, and can also be traced through the grass. As I was anxious to get on to catch the weekly steamer, I allowed myself to be convinced, and can now rejoice at being out of the reach of the Abassiens, Mingraliens, Georgians, Circassians, and Cossacks.