The circulation is mostly the Government Bank paper, which is prohibited from coming in if once taken out, and when one leaves the country, to buy gold and silver he must pay a handsome advance, as both of the precious metals bear a premium, and the bank can only be called upon for small sums. The natural consequence of such a state of things in any country is advanced prices for all articles of consumption.
If the last emperor had employed one half the vast sums expended in keeping up a gigantic military force, in improvements to the roads and rivers, and in railways, he would have been a great benefactor to his people.
Much is hoped and expected from the present emperor, who is willing to be guided and advised, while Nicholas was obstinate, and his will was law. I find more liberty of speech and action among the people now than when I first visited Russia, ten years ago, when every one felt as if his neighbor was a spy.
CXLI.
Odessa, July 6, 1858.
At this season of the year Odessa is only livable and visible after a rain storm, such as we have just had. It then appears to advantage, as the houses are of stone, well built, with metal roofs painted green. The soil is clayey, and the streets broad and unpaved, so that the hundreds of ox carts loaded with grain and the immense numbers of droskies produce a perfect cloud of dust, exceeding anything of the kind in the world. In winter it is very muddy, but at this period of heat without rain, it is a sort of purgatory. In twenty-four hours it will be dusty again, notwithstanding the heavy fall of rain we have just had, rendering the streets extremely difficult to cross. There are magazines or stores in the city for fifteen million bushels of grain.
A great annoyance to travellers leaving Russia is the procuring of passports. All the necessary measures must be taken at the police in person, and the intention of departure must be advertised three times in the Russian Journal, which appears only every other day, making a delay of a week, if fortunately no holiday or festival intervenes. At every point you are taxed for stamp paper, advertising fees, and other items, to sustain the hordes of officers. Your pass for interior travel is taken from you, and a new one has to be made out. Your original pass must be visé by the minister or consul of the country you design visiting, and another is not forthcoming until the chief of the police certifies there are no civil or criminal charges alleged, and then, perhaps, it is too late for the weekly steamer, thereby detaining the stranger against his will for perhaps a fortnight. I am now only in possession of my books and maps, which were seized by the Censor when I entered Russia. The obstacles thrown in the way of travellers should be noticed by enlightened Governments. Through the assistance of the Governor, to whom I went in person, I shall get through with less difficulty. The last act signed is by the Quarantine Officer, without whose visé one cannot get on board of the steamer. Is it any wonder that the progress of this great nation should be retarded? Where would the United States be if our system was as contracted as the European?
I came from Taganrog to Kertch, stopping at Esck, a new town just growing up, at Mariopol, and at Berdiansk, the latter a little city of commercial importance, but whose trade may now fall off, its privileges having expired.
In order to build up a new city, as is the case with Esck, which reminds me of one of our new towns in the West, the commercial tax upon a merchant is taken off for ten years, if he will erect a store at a certain cost in the new city. Large dealers in Moscow, or other cities, find it to their advantage to make the outlay, without ever seeing the property. The system strikes me as a forced one, and after the term expires the town may decline.
The ex-governor of Kertch and myself were the only persons landed at Esck, and the governor drove us around in his drosky, and to his house for refreshments.