XXX.
Thebes, Upper Egypt, February 13, 1842.
We left Cairo on the 24th of January, and arrived here after a passage of twenty days. I must now recur to my journal to recount some of the adventures of the voyage.
The first day we made but little progress against a strong current, although we had all our Arab crew ashore, with ropes across their breasts, pulling, and at night found ourselves moored among the reeds of the island of Rhoda, where it is recorded that Moses was found by the daughter of Pharaoh. While here, we were boarded by a Nubian, of a dark, tall, and fine figure, bearing his orders in diamonds and sabre by his side. Not knowing his designs, we desired him to be seated, and following the custom of the country presented coffee and a pipe, when he produced a paper in Arabic for the arrest of our reis, or captain, who owed a certain sum of money. High words ensued, in which the captain, crew, and domestics took part, and we, being determined not to be detained, produced the firmans of the Sultan and Mehemet Ali, stating that we could not be stopped, when he very politely concluded to defer the arrest until the return of the barge. The second day the scene had changed; with a fine wind and our tall sails spread to the breeze, we were dashing against the rapid current, and making fine progress, and leaving Cairo in the distance, when we suddenly found ourselves upon a sand bank, which, as we have since found, is a thing of frequent occurrence. Instantly ten or eleven naked Arabs and Barbary negroes plunged into the river, and we soon found the boat lightened and again under way. At night the wind ceased, and we drew up to the bank, alongside of an Arab village, while the rays of the setting sun gilded beautifully the mountains and the desert in the distance. The village, surrounded with palm trees gently waving, and the rich verdure of the plain, seemed to me more beautiful than ever. The morning of the 26th, to our surprise, found the wind dead ahead and strong; I started along the bank with my two companions shooting pigeons, which are found in great abundance, and saw about two hundred Egyptians, a large proportion half naked, employed in making dyes. Our appearance and guns created a sensation. We frequently encountered groups of women and girls with massive jugs, which, after having filled them with Nile water, they put upon their heads and march off in line. Their appearance differs from those in large cities, from their not having a veil to cover their faces; but on our approach they endeavored to cover them with a blue cotton shawl which is worn on the head and shoulders. They are swarthy, with feet and ankles bare, their faces and hands marked with a blue color resembling India ink; they wear many ornaments about the neck, wrists, and even ankles, and not unfrequently rings in the nose.
27th.—Wind still contrary, which is rare, as it usually blows from the north during the winter months. Although our men tugged heavily all day, we made very little progress. At night we halted at a small village, where we found a caravan of men, women, and children, with their camels, all reposing upon their mats and straw for the night, whilst our Arab crew were gathered around a fire on the bank. Had an eclipse of the full moon this evening, which has created an excitement among the superstitious Arabs, causing many invocations to the prophet.
28th.—This is the most horrible and disagreeable day we have had upon the Nile. The wind ahead, and blows a perfect gale; cannot change our position. Yesterday was warm and delightful, but to-day extremely cold. Our men are wrapped up in all the covering they can find, and we are glad to confine ourselves to the cabin.
29th and 30th.—The wind still being against us, we were almost discouraged with the prospect; but the ruins of immortal Thebes, which had her hundred gates, were before us, and beckoned us on.
31st.—We made some progress to-day in towing, but no wind. Discovering a mud village in the distance, I took an Arab servant with me, to bring a supply of poultry, eggs, and mutton, which can be procured at almost all places along the Nile. These articles, with a species of cake called bread, are about all that can be procured, excepting in the largest towns. On returning to the boat, I saw several mounted horsemen, who were cautioning my companions not to go alone into the villages, as four soldiers had just been killed by the villagers.
Feb. 4th.—I made my appearance again on deck, having been confined to my bed for the last three days with cold and fever, from the effect of checked perspiration. Fortunately, I had a medicine chest, to which I am indebted for my quick recovery. In a country like Egypt, where no medical attendance can be procured, it is all-important to be provided with the necessary remedies; besides which, among the Arabs, who have a great passion for medicine, one soon acquires distinction in the title of “hakim.” Before our arrival at Thebes, three of our crew fell sick, but a strong dose to each was sufficient to effect a cure, and they seemed to feel under many obligations.
After the 4th, our prospects changed; the wind veered round to the north, and we found our bark gliding along with great velocity, passing some important towns and villages, with the determination to stop on our return, not wishing to lose such a fine wind, which we held most of the way to Thebes. In ascending the Nile new sights are continually rising to view. In one place may be seen a herd of buffalo and camels, quietly grazing upon the rich plain; while near at hand are discovered half-a-dozen Egyptians, in a state of nature, raising water to irrigate the soil, by buckets fastened to a pole, like our old-fashioned well-poles. The next moment, perhaps, you discover fifteen or twenty crocodiles, from ten to fourteen feet long, and as numerous as in the days when the Egyptians worshipped them. As they lay basking in the sun, we would give them a passing shot, which would shake their scaly sides and send them tumbling in the water. Upon the Nile, one who is fond of shooting, finds plenty of amusement, as pelicans, wild ducks, geese, and eagles abound, and in many places are found the hyena, gazelle, foxes, wolves, and other animals. The slave trade is still continued from Dongola and Senaar. We saw one large boat descending with upwards of one hundred on board, who were bought for a small sum, or some article of necessity, from their parents, and were now wending their way to the slave market at Cairo, or perhaps to Siout, where the abominable traffic in eunuchs for the harems is still carried on. It is to be hoped, under the enlightened government of Mehemet Ali, that the latter detestable practice will be abandoned.