The old Spanish custom of bull fights is still kept up with all its vigor in Lima, and the long looked-for combat came off after the church ceremonies of Passion Week had ended. Having, as a traveller, witnessed this barbarous sport in Spain, where it is countenanced by the nobility and the dignitaries of the government, I was induced to attend it here chiefly to observe the ladies in their saya mantas—a garment which entirely prevents recognition, as it leaves one eye only exposed. The sayas are falling into disuse, and not seen so often as formerly in the public streets, except on festive occasions. Any lady may be addressed, but under no circumstances can the veil be removed by force, without calling down the vengeance of bystanders. An immense building of circular form stands near the Alameda; it is a public promenade, with palcos or boxes for parties and families, and seats in the form of an amphitheatre, capable of containing some seven thousand persons. The authorities of the city occupy a prominent place, as well as the military officers and judges. A programme is sold, containing the names of the twelve bulls to be killed, and describing the characteristics of the prominent matadores, two of whom, father and son, have recently arrived from Spain.
The trumpet sounds; mounted horsemen come forth and clear the ring; others appear with lances in hand; and then appear six flag-men with red and yellow scarfs, round jackets, and short clothes of silk and velvet, embroidered with gold and silver lace, shining knee-buckles, and silk stockings. The sliding gate is opened, and in rushes the tortured bull, with his eyes glaring, and makes for the horse, but is diverted by the blazing colors of the scarfs. Sometimes a mantle is thrown over the shoulders; the animal pursues it, when the wearer dashes it aside and dodges the infuriated beast, escaping behind a side partition fence, while he takes after another, and barbed arrows with feather or paper plumes are planted in his neck, causing him to roar and paw the dust, and make another attempt at his adversary, in which he sometimes upsets horse and rider, goring the former, to the delight of the multitude, whose cries and waving handkerchiefs attest their pleasure. After the ineffectual efforts and hair-breadth escapes of the actors, the matador, while attracting the bull with his red flag, with one thrust of his long sword gives him a mortal stab, which passes through the neck and heart, and appears between the fore-legs. The enthusiasm is then at its height. The trumpet sounds, the gates are thrown open, two pairs of heavy mules appear, bedecked with feathers, and mounted by two riders. The head of the defunct is raised upon a pair of small wheels, and attached by the horns to the traces; the band strikes up, the dead carcase is removed under the full gallop; the gates are closed, and a new victim soon appears. I felt it a relief to escape and stroll along the beautiful Alameda, upon the river bank. The ride to the baths of Churilla, a few leagues from Lima, is over a heavy, sandy road, dusty, dreary, and of no interest.
The Indian village situated on the bay is much resorted to during the summer months. The bath-houses are of cane or reed, and form a sort of labyrinth, with a few flat stones in each for seats; they are occupied by both sexes, but are rather exposed. Gambling seems to be the order of the day, or rather night, as all classes, male and female, enter into the sport, it being the ruling passion of the Peruvians as well as the Chilians. Among the passengers in the diligence or public conveyance was a grey-headed, thin-visaged, lank old man, whose whole dress, including his poncho, would not have sold for twenty dollars; yet this confirmed old gambler had amassed two hundred thousand dollars in play, and notwithstanding that he was lame with one foot in the grave, his passion, which was the object of his visit, must still be gratified. Many persons have private residences for the enjoyment of the sea breeze and bathing, but they are of a primitive character. Ludicrous dances in grotesque costumes are performed by the negroes, which help to pass their evenings.
Lima is considered the gayest city on the South Pacific coast, and enjoys a mild, equal climate, being uninfluenced by the near approach of the mountains, and of a much more agreeable temperature than the same latitude on the opposite side in Brazil. The houses, which are two stories, have balconies of latticed work, which gives the ladies an opportunity of seeing all passers in the streets. The ladies are less celebrated for constancy than for sprightliness, grace, and beauty, and are a far superior race to the men, who are much inferior to the Chilians. The use, or rather abuse of the saya manta was formerly a means of intrigue even in the presence of husbands and brothers, as exchanges of robes were easily effected. The adoption of European costume is fast reducing the use of this garment.
To a stranger the alarm created by a shock of an earthquake upon the natives appear ridiculous, as they rush out of their houses into the open square, and if the shock is in the night, of course in undress; all who experience these shocks, however, are soon overcome by the same kind of terror. The earthquake of the last century swept Callao and its entire population into the sea. We had a considerable shock a few days since, while I was in a heavy stone and brick building, used in part for a museum, and where some interesting specimens of antiquity of the times of the Incas are found, as also mummies from the Indian mounds, and the portraits of the former viceroys of Peru. I was examining these objects attentively, when I found myself suddenly alone, with the balance of the party making for the inner court or square, crying out “un temblor!” The dust was flying about me, and I followed hurriedly; I observed that the sky was remarkably bright, that there was a perfect stillness of the elements, and that the air was filled with birds in confusion; however, it soon passed, and without damage.
The steamer from which I write is new; she is just out from England, this being her first trip. We are fortunate in having fresh supplies and attentive servants, with few passengers, and every comfort. We have just met the Santiago, and exchanged civilities, and received English papers from Panama. I learn from her captain, who has just recovered from the pest, that all my fellow passengers from Valparaiso, who touched at Callao and Lima, with one exception, were attacked, and among the number a family of seven persons. I find I have great reason to be thankful in having escaped.
We shall make the distance of eighteen hundred miles in seven and a half days, passing nearly one day at Paita, which has a fine harbor, and was formerly resorted to by whalers for supplies; they now go to Tumbes, seven leagues above, where water is to be had, with which water Paita is supplied, not a blade of grass or a drop of the liquid element being produced at the latter place, the few plants there in boxes being looked upon with much pleasure. It is far superior to many other small towns along the coast. There are some comfortable houses built of cane, and covered with flags, which earthquakes cannot shake down easily, and several long and narrow streets which afford shade. An extraordinary event had just occurred, it having rained for a part of a day, for the first time in seven years. The natives are mostly Indians; a quiet, docile, and well-looking people. The residents seem satisfied with their position and climate; they say that they are deprived of vegetation and water, but that they can get supplies from along the coast; that they are not infested with venomous reptiles and noxious fleas, the accompaniment of rank verdure, and that the people die of old age, citing instances of ninety and one hundred years longevity. I had made a passage with the son of the English Consul, whose father had been there for nineteen years, and enjoys the climate. I breakfasted and lunched with him, with some other guests from the ship, and certainly there was no want of the good things of life, even in such a desert place. The reputed wife of General Bolivar resides here; she was with him in many of his campaigns, while Liberator of South America. A friend took me to her house, and I found a stout, fat, but well featured elderly lady, in her hammock, which I learn she rarely leaves, unless for her bed. She had her two poodle dogs nestling beside her; she received us kindly, and conversed intelligently and in a diplomatic manner upon matters of politics. She is a great friend of General Flores, whose expedition is now approaching Guayaquil with fourteen hundred men, and with the prospect of overthrowing President Urbini, of Ecuador, who, she says, was educated by General Flores while former President, to whom he proved an ungrateful wretch. I found there the daughter of Flores with her husband and aide de-camp, awaiting news from the seat of war. This lady, who once lived in Lima in almost regal style, now subsists upon the charities of her numerous friends. As I had once visited the tomb of Bolivar in Caraccas, and received the hospitalities of a cousin bearing his name, in his rancho, near Porto Cabello, the old lady seemed interested in me, and insisted on my joining her in smoking a choice Havana, an occupation which she appeared to enjoy.
To-morrow we shall arrive at Panama, which place I had not expected or hoped to see again, and I can scarcely realize the fact that since my last visit I have made the circuit of the globe, and since my departure from home have passed almost the entire length of North and South America on both sides. After fourteen winters’ travel in southern latitudes, and several years’ absence at intervals from home, I find that my table of distances amounts to six hundred thousand miles, from the snowy regions of Canada, Norway, and Finland in the north, to the barren shores of Patagonia in the south—having traversed by sea and land, at different periods, almost all the practicable portions of the earth, in making the circuit of the world. Although what has passed appears not unlike a dream, my ambition for the present is satisfied, and I have reason to thank a kind Providence, whose protecting hand has carried me through almost all the perils of life, and has been the means of preserving a constitution endangered by the severity of northern winter-climates. I shall proceed via the isthmus to Havana, and thence to New Orleans, on my way home, where I hope to arrive in the early part of June.
1853.
LXXXI.
Paris, Jan. 31, 1853.